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Old 08-10-2018, 08:12 AM   #3421
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Year: 1991
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sorry ive been trekking the country in a 40 year old bus and working 8 hours / day also.. so havent seen this thread as much..


they are called window sweeps... these are the ones i used on my G-body rest-mods..


83-88 Monte Carlo SS 4 pc Window Sweeps Felts Kit


-Christopher
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:08 AM   #3422
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Thanks Chris --- I will take a look at that one. And glad to hear you are getting lots of "bus time" in the saddle.


Jack --- I discovered that the rattlecan chrome paint is all rated "indoor" and most say they are NOT compatible with clear coat so I am running some tests of my own. Seems to me that "chrome paint's" #1 application just might be on the outside of vehicles...i.e., exterior...but that's just me I guess. There are even a bunch of YouTube vids comparing them and such and a couple of folks noted that some turn brown when clear coated. We'll see.


2martins --- ya...something like gas or even hydraulics would definitely make raising & lowering a lot easier. More complicated yes, but easier on the back for a big array.
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:46 AM   #3423
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Hey Tango. The product I used is made by Plasti-Kote and is called Bumper Chrome (product #615). I am surprised to hear that others have had paint reactions related to clear coats. I've used many brands of automotive clear coat over the years and I have never had the slightest bit of trouble. I wonder if those who have experienced problems weren't using rattle can clear--that stuff is often very chemically hot and I have seen it wrinkle "fresh" base. I'll be interested to hear what your clear coat trials turn up. Jack
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Old 08-10-2018, 12:17 PM   #3424
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This stuff isn't cheap, but if you had other things you wanted to turn into real-looking chrome, check out this stuff:

https://alsacorp.com/easy-chrome/
or
https://alsacorp.com/spray-chrome-paints/

( I am not affiliated, just a long time lurker dreaming of owning a bus someday when I can convince the wife)
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:41 PM   #3425
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I will check that one out Jack. And I will update with results of this little chemistry experiment.
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:50 PM   #3426
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the only issues ive had were clear coating plastic pieces were some yellowing after a couple years.. I usually painted the plastic pieces with SEM brand paints and then clear coated over the top.. seems the sun turned things yellow after a couple years.. these were filler panels on a cadillac i did so they were out in the rain and sun... never saw road salt as i garaged that car in the winter.. the parts in question were white so the yellowing was easy to spot.


honestly i never looked for a date on the can.. but most likely it was probably stuff I had in the garage for awhile.. and being in ohio my garage temperatures fluctuate a lot from season to season.. and whether I turn on the heat in winter or not..



-Christopher
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Old 08-10-2018, 02:56 PM   #3427
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BTW...just learned a nifty little rattlecan trick (tell me if you've heard this before)...


Set the can in a pan of very warm water for about five minutes before using. It increases the pressure and makes a much finer mist. Worked for me.



Do NOT...repeat NOT...even think about boiling it! Just good and warm will do.
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Old 08-11-2018, 08:52 PM   #3428
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Chrome paint test --- Meh. As previously noted, not exactly "chrome" but should be a definite improvement over the rusty bases I now have. Made no effort to work on a super smooth surface and wound up with lots of sanding dust in the wet paint, but...not that bad.




This is on a chunk of scrap rectangular tube steel. Two light coats come up much better than multiple or any heavy coats. This is Rustoleum brand "Chrome" and also has a final finish of Krylon gloss clear over it as a sealer. NOTE...as with all the other paints I found that were remotely chrome-like...the Rustoleum is clearly noted as for "Indoor Use". No discoloration so far, but who know what the sun will do to it.



The heavy duty (3/16" steel) rain gutter over my windows. These have been a real bear to try and clean up. A plague upon the dimwit who put a heavy coat of crappy, water-based latex paint all over this thing!!! Nice, fine layer of rust everywhere the water met the steel. And a monster to clean up. So far I have gone through a half dozen wire wheels...and I still have a long ways to go. Sandpaper is useless (plugs up)...flapwheels eat into the metal too much...and stripping discs are expensive and wont get into tight spots.


Ain't we got fun!?






ONWARD!
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Old 08-12-2018, 02:50 AM   #3429
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mine seems very similar

The '54 wayne I have is built in a similar fashion. I am planning on unbolting, the "gutter" on mine and unscrewing all those phillips head screws and take off these bits to clean/derust. and then put on primer/paint... dry then seam sealer of some sort then bolt/screw back together. Mine is bolted/screwed from across the front windshield all the way back to the rear-side quarter windows.Just have to start spraying PB blaster now and wait for a couple of weeks. I wonder if I will drop those screw/ bolts down into the walls when I take the nuts off, or if I will have to take out inner walls just so I can take the nuts off.

william
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:04 AM   #3430
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Wayne did some weird engineering from time to time. On mine, the rail is bolted on...with the bolts coming from the inside...nuts on the outside. The bolts were installed during construction from in between the inner & outer skin. Mine will not get removed. The rest of the body is indeed held together by large sheetmetal screws.


At the moment, I am trying to find window channel felt that is the right size. One more item that seems to different from everything else made during that time.
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