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Old 10-21-2013, 09:37 PM   #561
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Year: 1946
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Jack --- I printed your schedule off and pinned it to my wall. And if it weren't for havin' to run this danged art studio thing and work on the commissions that buy more parts to rust, I'd catch up with you in no time. Till then, I guess I'll just haft'a work it in when I can and dream about PB&J.

Onward?
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:29 PM   #562
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

FINALLY! --- I picked up a spare frame months ago mostly for the wheels and a few other parts. Only problem was...getting the damned wheels off! They have a center pilot hole and the rears include a plate that had become rust welded to the axle. I soaked with penetrant, beat with a sledge, yanked with a chain and they still wouldn't budge. I actually started to wonder if maybe there was some other mechanism holding them tight but the folks on the old Chevy forum said no. Well, today I broke down and rented an 11 ton hydraulic port-a-power with a small (4") head. Combined with more penetrant, an oxy/acetylene torch, a 2 pound sledge, a 10 pound sledge, lots of wood spacers, half a dozen chisels and a really big steel wedge...I managed to remove the two outer duallies in only about 5 hours!

Something tells me I gotta' arrange things on the new unit a little better or my pit times at the track are really gonna suck.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:22 PM   #563
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Oh well, look at it this way. Though you'll still be at the track long after the end of the race, but just think how "Jonny on the spot" you'll be for the next race

I had a similar problem with the rear drums on my TOAD. Once I got them off I filed away the rust in the center hole just a bit and coated the edges with a light coating of high temp grease--did the trick. Jack
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:36 AM   #564
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Roger the clean up Jack --- I'm thinking about taking the rims apart and getting them bead blasted, then I'll treat and paint before any tires go on. Heard bad things about powder coating rims (lots of chipping). Anyone else have any thoughts on refinishing old rims?
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:08 AM   #565
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

show car= powder coat
Driver= paint them with something you can touch every year or so (if needed) with a touch up spray gun
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:07 AM   #566
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Basil...my thinking exactly...except I might go with a spray can.

Just got a great suggestion from one of the guys on the old Chevy forum to pass along...use some anti-seize when you remount the refinished rims. Sounds like an excellent suggestion for anyone who has these old center piloted rims.

Elegant solution or what?
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:22 AM   #567
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Still waaaay behind --- Finally getting a little work done here and there. The engine bay is clear and I hope to have the extra hands needed to maneuver the engine/tranny into position for a test fit. The starter may be an issue as it hangs way out to the side but I have found another that mounts closer in if needed. Might even get the test fit done today (if the guys show up). Swinging the 1500 pound package around "delicately" is a little tricky by yourself.

Also started work on some of the replacement body panels. I'm welding the new steel directly to the ribs. The old metal fit in between paired ribs and would require taking the entire bus body apart to repair any one of them, so no advantage going that route. It'll be easier just to cut out a section if any future body work needs to be done.


Gonna' be a tight fit. I may set the engine back a foot or so to make more room for all the cooling gear...radiator, charge-air-cooler, transmission cooler & A/C condenser.


Body panel cut for blackwater drain hatch.


The drain hatch. Will mount the door with an SS piano hinge and secure with a couple of Dzus fasteners.

Onward!
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:33 AM   #568
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Oh Boy! Progress! Looking at the cowl on your bus I'd say that Chevy got their money's worth out of that design. It looks exactly like the one on my '35 right down to the vent drain in the center. I spoted the master cylinder on the cowl--was that an upgrade at some point or did Chevy go back to the below floor MC later on? You certaintly got a nice straight cut on the S#*@ hatch door. How did you cut it and how are you framing it out?

I have a bunch more questions but I don't want to take you away from your work so I won't ask. Jack
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:04 AM   #569
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

good to see progress
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:46 AM   #570
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Howdy Jack --- Really not sure about the MC as this unit had been semi-converted when I found it. Came with a 350 Chevy and the MC may well have been part of an "upgrade" but it does not look that way. It is a single pot master with a Hydroboost system under the floor. I'm replacing all of that with a dual pot power brake master and (hopefully) front disk brakes.

As for the cuts, I just use a thin cutoff wheel on my 4-1/2" grinder then finish the corners with a body saw. I'd use the saw more but I don't have a compressor that'll keep it spinning for more than about 5 seconds at a time before running out of air. Did learn that if you carefully score the length of the cut line with the disk then keep making more passes, it works much better than trying to make a single pass cut all the way through the metal. That said, when I cut away the old sheet metal below the windows, I did it in a single pass but used a 7-1/4 circular saw with a metal cutting blade set to only penetrate the sheet metal. To make it easy on myself, I tack welded a length of angle iron all the way down each side as a guide for the saw and it was a piece of cake. Came out very straight.

I have welded some 1/8th x 1-1/2 to the inside leaving a 1/2" lip to close the door against and will likely add some around three sides of the door on the outside for rigidity and overlap the opening a bit for appearance. Not concerned about sealing anything as it is just a pass through in the body to access the drain valve, not a closed compartment behind.

Having fits finding an in town supplier for Dzus'es. Called a bunch of "specialty" & industrial fastener shops and they had no idea what a Dzus was (?). Easy to get online but I'm touchy/feely about things like that and like to handle & look stuff over before I buy.

Did (finally!) manage to get a couple of friends to help with the very first test fit of the motor & tranny yesterday! At just over a thousand pounds it takes a minimum of three people to maneuver the whole package. One on each side of the A-frame and one guiding at center. Quickly became evident I need to make some "adjustments". The oil filter has to go but I already suspected that and have some of the parts to fit a remote system. Will probably swap out the starter for one that has better frame clearance as well but that is a "wait-and-see" until I can try one more fitting. On this first try, I did mark the firewall and cut it out last night so we can place the whole unit much farther back than what we had yesterday. The front of the Cummins engine will probably wind up more than a foot farther back than what the 350 Chevy was. And as you have probably noticed...these old frames taper down in front which means I'll gain a little width as I move towards the rear.

Hope to try another "fitting" this weekend, but getting the necessary team in place is the tricky part. May be able to do it all myself with a come-a-long or some such, but it was such a piece-of-cake with 6 hands that I hope I can lure them back soon. Maybe beer?

More pix soon.

Onward!
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