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Old 09-08-2014, 10:17 PM   #751
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

NAPA has them. And an awsome thick catalog of wheel studs.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:27 AM   #752
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Thanks sdwarf --- I will definitely check them out.
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:14 PM   #753
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

sdwarf - thanks again! --- just verified them at $2.60 through NAPA. Outstanding! $65 bucks is a whole lot better than $250.00! Screw the Bowtie Guys!
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Old 09-12-2014, 12:27 AM   #754
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Very cool 46 Wayne/Chevy! Have you got your Cummins 4bt swap done? I would like to hear more about it. I have a 240 Silver Diamond in my 51 IHC/Wayne and it would have to blow up twice[ I have a nice spare] but I'd like to get 20 mpg anyway. Gets about 10 now and that's really pretty good compared to some. Heck, I had a ford van that got 6mpg. Hope to see your progress.
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:15 PM   #755
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Howdy All --- got a little more done today. Now have all the newly fabbed interior wall panels in place on the starboard side. Too many steps to move very fast. Once cut & formed they have to be scoured to remove the scale (hot rolled steel), then a rust treatment applied to both sides, then a couple of coats of the HyTech insulating paint, then a layer of insulation bonded, then positioned and drilled (going through plenty of bits) then attached. At first I planned on self tapping screws but remembered I still had a ton of 1/4" steel pop rivets left over from my old Blue Bird. Much lower profile than any screws which will help when the final finish paneling goes on.

In the middle of all this, I realized I had yet another problem I had totally missed. My original Wane windows will not work after all. Major "DUH" moment. Since they are the drop down type...once I attach the interior panels then build on top of them (sofa/sleeper & such)...the glass could not be repaired without tearing the whole damn bus apart. Not a good plan. So now I have to spring for four custom builts that will allow for glass replacement without de-constructing everything else. What a dumb-a$$! Oh well, better to discover this issue now than later I guess, but I feel like a complete idiot for not identifying the problem sooner. Like a couple of years ago.


Passenger side interior panels riveted in place


The same panels from the outside. A little seam sealer and some butyl tape and the outer skin will be ready to go on. It is progress, but I really need to pick up the pace. Rebuilding this thing pretty much from the ground up makes me wish at times I'd just bought a newer, ready to roll unit and threw in some furnishings.

And I haven't even begun installing the engine, new rear axle, new brake system, new power steering system...etc., etc., etc.

Onward...sort of.
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:33 PM   #756
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Tango, looks like super progress to me! Look at it this way, you'll be able to stuff more foam insulation in where the windows would have gone . Take a look at Home Despot at their series "100" windows. These come in dual pane tempered glass (1/8") with "e" coat and are very inexpensive. Best yet, they fit the wall thickness of these old buses perfectly. They only come in white finished aluminum but they are of top quality. They come in both vertical and horizontal slides with screens. They will even build to suit at no extra cost. You do have to ask for them though as they are not on display. You also need to ask for "block wall" windows or they will have nailing fins you don't want. They seem to be the only thing I bought for my bus that I didn't have to do over Jack
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:03 AM   #757
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Thanks Jack. At least I'm putting stuff on instead of just pulling it off.

And, speaking of HD windows. I saw some recently that they called "Series 100" but they were vinyl not aluminum. These were by Anderson (who makes a decent window) but I just didn't want plastic. Will check again. Talking to one of the "experts" at Home Depot is totally hit or miss these days. Most of 'em don't seem to have a clue about anything hardware or construction related.

"Toggle bolts? Naw... I don't think so. You'll probably have to go back to the dealer you bought your toggle from for those".
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:42 AM   #758
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Mill Scale...the bane of anyone working with hot-rolled steel!

Howdy All
--- Spent the past coupla days doing the final attachment of two homebuilt window deletes and getting ready to weld on the first large body panel. All the steel I have fabbed is hot rolled, which means it comes with a nasty layer of mill scale that has to be removed before any welding or painting. It is basically high temperature rust that just happens to be black. I spent over three hours trying to clean up 18 x 24 inches as this stuff is seriously tough. Went through a lot of flap disks and managed to get it off but gouged the surface doing so. It is much harder than the steel underneath. And my new body panels are many times the size of that delete. No way I was going to go through that again for days so I wondered about chemistry. I have used acid to remove rust and clean metal before but never had cause to try it on scale. Went online and Googled the subject and low & behold...Muriatic acid is what the pros recommend. Gave it a shot and sure enough...it works!

Some of you folks probably already knew this, but, just in case I wanted to pass it on. Keep the surface wet with the acid for about 15 minutes then hose it off with plenty of water. After that, you can easily polish away any residue with a fine sanding disk or a stripping disk.

Just be sure to take all the precautions necessary when working with any acid...eye protection, long rubber gloves...and...serious ventilation. Muriatic is commonly used around the house to clean grout and concrete but remember...it is the real deal. Muriatic is Hydrochloric acid that has been diluted but it is still strong enough to blind you, eat your skin and fry your lungs. Like a lot of things, it is a great tool, but absolutely must be handled with respect.

Will try and get some pic updates within a day or so.
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Old 09-24-2014, 09:50 AM   #759
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

dont forget to nuetralize it with vinegar water. have used it to remove aluminum from steel where pistons galled to cylinders!
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:25 AM   #760
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

While vinegar solution would make a good rinse solution, it is actually acidic. To neutralize the muriatic acid you would need to use something like a baking soda wash which is basic rather than acidic though I suspect that plain water would do well enough--especially hard water.
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