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Old 09-24-2014, 02:26 PM   #761
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Roger the baking soda to neuter --- In fact, vinegar or a wide range of other "mild" acids can be used to clean metal...even citric acid.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:20 AM   #762
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

wow! learn something everyday! and to think the plant chemist that told me about using muriatic acid and then rinsing with vinegar......... so in the future, it will be baking soda wash!!!! thanks guys.
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:39 AM   #763
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Easy to get confused --- It's a pH thing. Need an alkaloid to offset an acid and vice versa.
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Old 09-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #764
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

I bent a lug on our family truck once when it fell of a makeshift jack. I just spun on a lug nut and whacked the bugger with a 5 pounder. The frame eventually cracked but that lug was fine to the end.

Glad to see you're back in harness, bus wise.
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:31 PM   #765
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

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Old 09-26-2014, 05:46 PM   #766
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

No idea of the make or model but I am 100% certain it is SWEEEET! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:08 PM   #767
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

More "baby Steps" --- Managed to get all four window deletes completed and welded in. Also have the passenger side, rear body panel ready to weld, so that is just waiting on a locking, stainless steel fuel door hatch at the sheet metal shop. I want to make sure everything lines up before I nail it down. And...in yet another senior moment, realized it might be prudent to put an access hatch over the fuel tank sending unit. It will be hidden under the sofa/bunk...someday.


Passenger side deletes...


...driver side deletes...


...interior view...all the gaps will be filled flush with automotive seam sealer...


...sending unit hatch behind filler neck...


...new rear body panel, minus mill scale, plus primer...ready to mount...


...and finally, the OEM windows which have to be replaced. Once the frames are down inside the body panels and cabinets & such built over them...no way to replace the glass without a big time demo...so they go.

All for now.

Onward!
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:06 PM   #768
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Hey Tango. Your window deletes look like a factory option. Once again you have out done yourself with your own metal work . No senior moment there, your inspection plate just means you'll never have to repair your sending unit . The sending unit on my diesel tank can be accessed on the side of the tank (which also has a drain bung) so I should be OK there but the sending unit in the 8 gal genny tank will require tank removal for repair though there is a bung to drain the tank. I did remember to use an inline fuel pump for the genny rather than a submerged one. I do learn, though not easily. I had a nearly new Ford Tempo who's fuel pump was in the tank. The tank was under the floor under the rear seat. The stupid thing quit on me while I was traversing a hoity toity gated neighborhood. I slunk out of the neighborhood, bought a replacement pump, a heavy hammer, a sharp chisel and a few hand tools and returned to the car where I quickly removed the rear seat bottom, tossed it in the front seat, closed the doors and proceeded to cut a hole in the floor pan to get at the top loader pump. I had the car running again before the cops arrived--we waved at each other as I drove off Soooooo, I remembered the fuel pump----. Jack
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:07 PM   #769
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

Howdy All --- More Baby Steps. In case anyone else encounters mill scale or rust and does not have Ol' Trunts magic pond to dip things in...here is what I came across. Muriatic acid does the trick on both. Given that I've had body parts lying about for two years in good ol' Houston humidity, I HAD to do something before all those new chunks of steel totally rusted through. I've used acid to clean metal before but never to remove scale. It works as well on the mill scale as it does on rust. Did find that it tends to pool in some areas and miss others so I tried an old art trick. Added a tiny bit of soap to the acid and it made it cling everywhere I put it. Worked like a champ.

You DO need to exercise plenty of caution. Remember...it is real acid. It can blind you in a heartbeat and you don't want to breathe the fumes. Heavy rubber gloves, good fitting goggles and a big fan helped keep the bad stuff at bay with no issues.

Here's the results on the hatch cover to my tank drain.


Like I said...new metal + Houston humidity and this is what you get.


Here is the same steel after about 15 minutes with the acid applied.


After rinsing thoroughly & drying, about sixty seconds work with a stripping pad and ...waalaa! Clean metal with a nice "tooth" ready for priming. I shot a few coats of self-etching primer and now it should be good to sit until installed. Whenever that might be.

Onward!
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Old 09-28-2014, 09:35 PM   #770
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Re: '46 Chevy Shorty

You should have just bought new steel, you dont have to do anything to it to get it to look new. ;)
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