Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-29-2016, 09:00 PM   #1901
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Spent a good part of the day working on my floor. And after seeing a number of other posters pix of the same...I should probably write an "Ode to Asphalteum". Royal pain to clean up, but hey...my 70 year old floor looks like new compared to all the late model crumbling stuff I have seen here. Nothing remotely close to rust though on mine and very little in the way of even surface oxides. Too bad they didn't do a better job of applying it more evenly. Except for the big lumps here and there I probably could have just let it be.

But it does beg the question...why can't modern science and fancy chemistry seem to do nearly as good a job?

I will get a couple of pix tomorrow of that shiny antique metal.

ONWARD!

Tango is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 11:19 AM   #1902
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Follow up to "Ode to Asphalteum" --- As previously noted, the floor in my 70+ year old skoolie is in remarkable condition. Granted, scraping and cleaning the old asphalt based coating is a chore but apparently the stuff protects pretty darned well as you can see below.


What little surface oxides are present are mostly from my having cleaned and left some areas exposed for a couple of years. I thought I had welded all the bolt holes but found a couple of more under the tar.


Also began work on the area where my power panel will be. Part inside and part outside via a yet to be fabbed box that will be adjacent to my Honda gennie on the rear deck.


And while I was in the neighborhood, I cut out a small area of rust through that was right at the floor line. Have to finish tacking today, then a little body filler. "Weld Through" primer has been a life saver on this project since I am working on so may things at once and can't leave any metal exposed to Houston humidity.

Back to work.

ONWARD!
Tango is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 01:40 PM   #1903
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
wow that floor is in amazingly good shape!! of course its probably higher quality and heavier metal than what they use nowadays.. and obviously better protected than shoving soon-to-be-moisture-laden plywood into the floor of a bus...

I remember as kid / teen riding the school bus that in heavy heavy rains even our brand new busses leaked water down to the floor from the windows...

im guessing its been an issue with skoolie windows all along so in your bus they got ready for it by protecting the heck out of the metal!
-Christopher
cadillackid is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 06:16 PM   #1904
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Yeah...skoolie windows have always been a problem. The originals on mine dropped down inside the walls along with tons of water. The coachmakers clever solution was to simply drill big holes in the brackets at the bottom and let it drain out that way. Problem there was that dust and dirt clogged the holes and by the time I got the bus, all of the brackets had totally rusted away.

But...that may be what saved the floor. Along with the asphalteum.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 06:44 PM   #1905
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
GM used the same technique for the window seals on cars!!.. the infamous drip-dry body they called it... holes in the bottom of the body that if werent clogged by dirt surely were if you Ziebarted your car.. (which alot of people did in the 70s and 80s)...

-Christopher
cadillackid is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 08:24 PM   #1906
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Tango, what a fine project! I can hardly wait for a chance together to compare notes. I know that the last thing I should be thinking about is another ancient bus project but somehow I keep a keen eye out for one anyway. Over the last year or so I have found none. Hopefully, we are not at the end of the line for these old gals!

Jack
ol trunt is offline  
Old 12-01-2016, 10:32 PM   #1907
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Hang in there Jack. Hope springs eternal for that one, amazing "Barn Find"! Besides...you have way too much time on your hands.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-02-2016, 01:01 AM   #1908
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: ocala FL.
Posts: 147
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: international
Engine: t444e
Rated Cap: short
Nice bus I would love to stop by and see it on my way out of town. You do some amazing work.
syntaxterror is offline  
Old 12-02-2016, 08:48 AM   #1909
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Hey Syntax...feel free to stop by. Just PM me and we can try to sort out timing. The rest of you folks are welcome as well. I am headed there now so I won't get email until tonight. My phone is nearly as old as my bus and only makes phone calls.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-02-2016, 05:21 PM   #1910
Bus Crazy
 
sdwarf36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moodus, Ct.
Posts: 1,062
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford e-450
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 14
Its too late now but I got a trick that MAY help on the floors. Dry ice. I've prepped a few Mazda MX-5 race cars-and we have to take off the sound deadner goop in the interior. You take chunks of the stuff + set it on the tar + wait about an hour. It turns hard and can scrape it up with a putty knife. You get it right + its like scraping shingle off a roof. Wonder if it would work on older stuff.
__________________
Don't make a fuss-just get on the bus!

my bus build https://www.skoolie.net/gallery/Skoolies/Sped
sdwarf36 is offline  
Old 12-02-2016, 06:41 PM   #1911
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
I like the dry ice idea. Plus it would keep my margarita chilled while I work.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-02-2016, 06:54 PM   #1912
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwarf36 View Post
Its too late now but I got a trick that MAY help on the floors. Dry ice. I've prepped a few Mazda MX-5 race cars-and we have to take off the sound deadner goop in the interior. You take chunks of the stuff + set it on the tar + wait about an hour. It turns hard and can scrape it up with a putty knife. You get it right + its like scraping shingle off a roof. Wonder if it would work on older stuff.
Be nice if I could flip my bus 180 degrees, and use the dry ice method on the ceiling.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline  
Old 12-03-2016, 10:47 AM   #1913
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Body work...I HATE doing bodywork! --- More metal patching. An area adjacent to where I am building an electrical box was rusted out along the floor line so I took on the task of patching it. Made a patch out of some 18 gauge, traced it onto and over the offending area, cut it out with a grinder and cutting wheel, tacked it in, filled in the tacks all around, ground'em down then started on the Bondo work. But first...I watched a couple of YouTube vids on the subject. They helped a bunch.


Measure, cut, tack then tack some more.


Apply Filler, sand, more filler, sand.


Not pushing this brand but I did learn online is that the newer, fiberglass infused fillers are far superior to the old, creamy types. Stronger and more flexible.


A final thin layer of conventional filler and a top coat of Putty made for a fairly decent finish. Turned out much better than any of this type work I have done (bungled) before.

Next is to glue and screw some heavy gauge material around the perimeter of the big opening to provide a better welding base for the electrical box.

ONWARD!

PS...just for the record...vehicles made in America during the war years (WWII) were fabricated from whatever metal that was left after the government used the "good stuff" and is a nightmare to weld. So many impurities that it wants to blow out at any setting on my mig.Like trying to weld lead.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:43 AM   #1914
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post

Apply Filler, sand, more filler, sand.
PSR- Putty Sand, Repeat. I feel your pain, it's such fun even when working with styrene models. Especially when there are huge gaps because of crappy moldmaking or age of the kit.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline  
Old 12-03-2016, 06:59 PM   #1915
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Looking good Tango. I doubt a "real" body man could do any better. Funny how it goes, I really enjoy working with body filler. On the other hand, while I can do it, I really don't enjoy working with wood. Go figger. Jack
ol trunt is offline  
Old 12-03-2016, 07:04 PM   #1916
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I hate body work too... and it shows,.. seems any bidy work I do doesnt last very well...

im glad you know how to do it... its a great skill to have!!
-Christopher
cadillackid is offline  
Old 12-06-2016, 08:01 PM   #1917
Bus Nut
 
FlyboyHPD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 403
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
Kinda reminded me a little of yours Tango.

https://www.facebook.com/toyman01?hc...WSFEED&fref=nf
__________________
1999 International AmTran, DT466E, MD3060
https://flyboyrv.wordpress.com/
FlyboyHPD is offline  
Old 12-06-2016, 09:53 PM   #1918
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Nice rig! Thanks Flyboy...love those old timers.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 10:02 AM   #1919
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Moving right along...Got the big hole cut out for my electrical box as well as replacing some rusted body metal. This time I decided to "glue & screw" some supporting material to which the actual box will attach. As I previously have stated, the metal used for civilian purposes during WWII is next to impossible to weld since it contains so many contaminants so I took the easy way out. One inch x 1/8" flat strap all around the edge of the hole using poly adhesive and nuts & bolts. When the box is built I will be able to easily weld directly to the straps.


Fitting the straps and drilling a bunch of bolt holes.


Mostly finished. A few more bolts were added across the bottom but I needed to get the other pieces positioned and welded together first.

Now I can start on building the enclosure for the electrics.

ONWARD!

PS...discovered some body lead while working on that area. Great filler if you don't mind the brain damage that comes along with working with it.
Tango is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 10:49 AM   #1920
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
'tis a little unnerving to cut a giant hole in an otherwise perfect body panel isn't it?
Jack
ol trunt is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
All Or Bussed! 1990 Chevy Shorty Bus mellowdaizy Short-Bus Conversion Projects 6 02-07-2014 07:35 AM
Wayne Bodied '54 Chevy Shorty on Ebay Tango Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 0 09-30-2011 09:52 AM
1955 Chevy shorty in CO: check this out! Stuff Classifieds | Buy, Sell, Swap 2 08-05-2011 08:55 AM
1983 chevy shorty A/C question trentwyrick98 Short-Bus Conversion Projects 0 05-24-2011 02:11 AM
New Member, 1959 Chevy Shorty 59Shorty Skoolie Conversion Projects 2 07-24-2007 11:58 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.