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Old 05-29-2016, 09:23 AM   #1701
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There is a lot of metal in the pedal, and I let it cool very slowly so it should be fine. And the pounding actually helps realign the molecules according to the guys at the machine shop I work with. After they Tig welded the steering parts they were working on they heated the whole area cherry red, then took a hammer to it for a minute or so to "re-set" them.

If there are any real Blacksmiths here, feel free to chime in on the magic involved.

Meanwhile...back to work.

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Old 05-29-2016, 01:23 PM   #1702
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Not a blacksmith here, but I don't think you're going to break that pedal off regardless of tempering.
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Old 05-29-2016, 08:46 PM   #1703
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As overbuilt as it is...I don't think I could break it either.
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Old 05-29-2016, 09:39 PM   #1704
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I think overbuilding in the area of Brakes is a good thing.. its not a pedal you really want to test the strength on..

I tend to over-think strength.. id not make a very good airplanbe builder as everything would be so heavy you;d need a rocket engine just to taxi...

but maybe i could build tanks

-Christopher
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:08 PM   #1705
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I wouldn't worry about a bit of annealing on something as heavy as that brake pedal. I ended up shortening my brake pedal about 2" and I can feel the difference in the amount of pedal pressure it takes to get the same brake response as I had originally. If I were to do it over, I'd figure out some way to raise the master cylinder rather than shortening the pedal. Jack
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Old 05-29-2016, 10:23 PM   #1706
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Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I wouldn't worry about a bit of annealing on something as heavy as that brake pedal. I ended up shortening my brake pedal about 2" and I can feel the difference in the amount of pedal pressure it takes to get the same brake response as I had originally. If I were to do it over, I'd figure out some way to raise the master cylinder rather than shortening the pedal. Jack

you didnt piut power assist? I know with the fluid hydrassist systems the amount of hydraulic boost was adjustable on the actuator... the ones im familiar with were the GM cars of the 80s.. a saginaw powe srteering poumo was used wit ha sklightly higher capacity... and then at the master cylinder you could adjust how easy the brake pedal went down... I know some of the guys with street-rods used them because they needed short throw brake pedals... the hydrassist also stored enough built up pressure that you got 3 pumps of the brake pedal under assistance until you were in stand-on-it mode..
-Christopher
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:46 AM   #1707
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I am pretty sure Jack's system is hydroboost. As I recall, he's using what was on the NPR chassis.

Me...I am re-shopping complete master cylinder/hydroboost packages. The Chevy 3500 that I had hoped to use simply will not fit the way it is configured. Of course I could move the engine again, but...
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:18 AM   #1708
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The standard thought for pedal ratio (pivot point to mc/pivot to pedal) is 5:1 to 6:1. I had to push this on the race car due to lack of room-its something you don't want to shortchange.
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:28 AM   #1709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
I am pretty sure Jack's system is hydroboost. As I recall, he's using what was on the NPR chassis.

Me...I am re-shopping complete master cylinder/hydroboost packages. The Chevy 3500 that I had hoped to use simply will not fit the way it is configured. Of course I could move the engine again, but...

most of the saginaw stuff is similar.. which part didnt fit? the steering box itself or the Master cylinder? or PS pump?

-Christopher
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:47 AM   #1710
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It is the master itself. The accumulator bottle hangs too far out on the passenger side and hits the engine. (Have I mentioned how tight everything on this rascal is?) I did just find a couple of units that are configured differently. A Freightliner and a custom unit that both have the bottle centered under the MC and just might work. Still need to get some measurements though and being Memorial Day, will have to wait to get any answers.

But I still have plenty to do. Now that all the steering parts are in place, I am working on where the pedals can go, setting up the throttle (going with cable) and replacing the fuel shutoff solenoid with a simple push/pull dash rod. The solenoids on most diesels have a less than stellar record and can be a major issue if you are out in the boonies. Why even bother with it? My old DD 6v53 had a manual cutoff and was never a problem. Push to run...pull to stop. I like simple.
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Old 05-30-2016, 12:50 PM   #1711
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Have you ever seen someone pull the handle off of the manual fuel shutoff? Still not a problem compared to a malfunctioning electrical shutoff.

Every time I find another '46, they don't seem to take it past bodywork and paint. No apparent insulation, but often they rebuild and paint the original little 6 banger gasser. I'm thinking that museum quality build is much easier, but nearly useless functionally. I've always been for completely stock vehicles that are factory original, but I don't think most people honestly know how those older trucks actually drove.

Just out of curiosity I'm wondering if you've kept track of your hours?
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Old 05-30-2016, 01:53 PM   #1712
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Tango, this could work well:

Throttle Cable Locking T Handle NSN 2995 01 203 0979 Arens P N 300 029 11 | eBay
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:51 PM   #1713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
It is the master itself. The accumulator bottle hangs too far out on the passenger side and hits the engine. (Have I mentioned how tight everything on this rascal is?) I did just find a couple of units that are configured differently. A Freightliner and a custom unit that both have the bottle centered under the MC and just might work. Still need to get some measurements though and being Memorial Day, will have to wait to get any answers.

But I still have plenty to do. Now that all the steering parts are in place, I am working on where the pedals can go, setting up the throttle (going with cable) and replacing the fuel shutoff solenoid with a simple push/pull dash rod. The solenoids on most diesels have a less than stellar record and can be a major issue if you are out in the boonies. Why even bother with it? My old DD 6v53 had a manual cutoff and was never a problem. Push to run...pull to stop. I like simple.
my mechanical DT360 has the wonderful T-handle to pull off, push on.. (same exact T handle as was in our IHC Scourt diesel growing up).. and its indeed staying.. another benefit is if you blow an alternator on the road.. you casn literally DRAIN the battery and still go... well maybe not if the TCM goes south due to voltage...

I was thinking GM on one of their models used a remotely located accumulator for the MC... 1979 eldorado comes to mind, but id have to look again..

I suppose a vacuum assist booster is probably WAY too big to go on that firewall.. so running a vacuum pump and a standard booster is probably out of the question too..

-Christopher
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Old 05-30-2016, 10:33 PM   #1714
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Howdy Robin --- I quit counting the days years ago and like the costs...I am probably better off not knowing.

Thanks Opus--- But I got the fuel shutoff all lined up today. Even have a shiny red, threaded knob for it. But that cable arrangement might make a good Poor Boy cruise control. Are "hand throttles" still legal?

Cadillac --- I did find a medium duty Freightliner Hydro unit that looks like it might work but I am waiting on some measurements. And there is no way I could wrangle one of those big ol' vacuum boosters in this thing. Besides...diesels don't make vacuum and there is no room for another pump.

Still battling the steering/pedals layout and how to fab a box for it all that will work with the firewall. Starting to give me a headache.


ONWARD!
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:02 PM   #1715
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the shapeof your firewall and engine compartment are very similar to the packards.. wonder if some knowledge can be gained from the street rodders... in early july each year we have the goodguys come through... do you guys ever have that show? over the years ive gained a lot of knowledge by just going and looking at the various cars... thought maybe your engone sits back into the cab a little more than some of those cars which does create nightmares for pedals indeed..

wonder if anything like this might help..

Electric Power Master Cylinders - Disc/Disc - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

pricey but a popssibility.. looks like you can remotely mount the motor and the accumulator..

-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:15 AM   #1716
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Yeah, I spend a fair amount of time consulting with Hot Rodders, Rat Rodders and even a few crazies who build many of Houston's outrageous Art Cars. Ya gotta get creative on a lot of this stuff.

(For those of you who have never seen it...)
29th Annual Houston Art Car Parade | April 9, 2016 | Powered by The Orange Show Houston Art Car Parade

And I looked into a couple of the electric units. One vacuum, one hydro. Just don't trust all the Chinese built motors that much. The gear driven hydro pump on my Cummins will handle both steering & brakes so I am doing all I can to stick with that system. I may have to go the electric route but only as a last resort and I still have a few wacky ideas to burn through first.
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Old 05-31-2016, 11:11 AM   #1717
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Yeah, I still have a few wacky ideas to burn through first.
WHAAAAT????? Tango has wacky ideas????????
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:36 PM   #1718
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In spite of another round of Biblical Rains...

I managed to get a few small things done today.


Got the frame for my water tanks all together...and they fit. Will be mouting it indoors soon.


Still making mods to every piece of the steering system. Did more today that will have to go back to the machine shop.


Conducted a small science experiment to prove once and for all that aluminum really does melt at a lower temperature than steel. Used these to position a pair of threaded studs that will hold the front strap onto the water tank housing. Sure enough...the Mig turned them molten as I welded the steel. Success!

And finally...


Got an additional heat shield mounted on the downpipe where it comes off the turbo. I am hoping it will prevent the doghouse from melting down like the wingnuts did.


ONWARD!
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:27 AM   #1719
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love the water tank housing! I dont understand the aluminum melting? are you using it for a filler material that you want to melt into place?

-Christopher
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:05 AM   #1720
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Hey Tango. Are you going to use the tilt and telescope feature of the Isuzu steering column? Jack
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