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Old 02-07-2018, 11:14 PM   #121
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 169
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I have done a boatload of soldering in my life but never on anything remotely close to that large.

Can you give us a nickle tour of your assembly process? Tools & materials?

Thanks.

S.
Well... I can describe what I do but I'm not exactly certain that it is the right way to do it. It works for me though.

First off, I don't rely on the solder for the mechanical connection. The only thing I'm using solder for is to back fill the connectors to help prevent corrosion.

Basically, I trim the sheath back to fit the fitting. Double crimp the fitting in place using large crimpers. I drape the wire over something allowing the open side of the fitting faces up. I heat the fitting with a propane torch until it becomes hot enough to melt the solder on its own. I back fill the fitting until full. Allow the fitting and wire to cool on it's own... then heat shrink. I've never had a failure using this method. I have had fittings fail (typically the cheap copper "crushed tubing" fittings).. so use quality components. When working with this big stuff... keep in mind it can/will carry a LOT of current. Don't cheap out on the cable or fittings. The cable I use is US made Flex-a-prene. The fittings are different brands (such as T&B) but I make sure they are thick and made in the USA. I've had the cheap/thin copper terminals snap off.. makes for an interesting show when it finds something grounded.

Anyways... I'm sure there are better/proper ways.. that's just how I do it. Before I got the crimpers, I used a modified C-Clamp and before that, I used a 4# hammer and center punch. Just make sure the fittings are tight and use quality heat shrink. I found 3m adhesive lined heat shrink on ebay for cheap. I got 4' sticks of 3/4" for $3.50 a stick (NOS).

Now if you want solder only joints on these big cables... youtube has some decent videos showing the process. It is fairly similar minus the crimping. With the enclosed lugs, guys fill the fittings with solder first.. then place the wire into the filled lug while heated. Hold it in place while the solder cools and wicks into the cable. On open end lugs, you just slip the lug onto the wire and fill the wire/lug slowly from the open end. Just make sure that the wire pulls the solder in instead of just laying solder on the surface. I find that small diameter solder works best.
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:34 AM   #122
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific North Wet
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Great explanation.

Thank you!
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:30 PM   #123
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 169
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
No problem bud!
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:25 AM   #124
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 169
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
Ordered all the parts for the front brake rebuild. New master cylinder, all rubber lines, pads, rotors, inner and outer wheel bearings, and wheel seals. Also ordered a copper/nickel tubing kit as I've got some hard line to replace. Probably going to order caliper rebuild kits while I'm at it.

Everything will be here sometime this week. After that, I think all I'll have left is the drive shaft. May have it rebuilt. I'll have to check it out first but all things considered, may just go on and have it done. I've got a local driveline shop that is dirt cheap and only uses Spicer parts. Last time I had one done (new joints, carrier), it was just over $100 out the door.

Anyways... getting close to rolling again!
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:04 AM   #125
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 169
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Goshen
Chassis: E350
Engine: 7.3 IDI
Rated Cap: 14
Got my power cables routed finally.

Last cable made..
IMG_20180209_184233741 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

Fuse holder for engine bay power stud..
IMG_20180209_175830259 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

IMG_20180209_175839507 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

Cables ran..
IMG_20180213_170217885 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

IMG_20180213_170232811 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

No good way of bolting it in.. but ties should be fine.
IMG_20180213_170307448 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

What will be the main power stud for the engine bay..
IMG_20180213_170517335_HDR by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

Which will replace this "extra" solenoid ford likes to use. It functions like a power stud except it has one wire on the other side that when triggered, sends power to the trigger wire for the starter solenoid. Its somewhat pointless. I'll be replacing it with a standard bosch style relay to send power to the starter solenoid trigger. The stud will be the main which will have the power for the underhood junction block, power for the bus body, and the main charge feed for the alternator.

IMG_20180213_170543087 by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

All that is left is to hook up the grounds. Waiting to button up some small stuff before putting power to the whole system and turning it over for the first time after all the work.

Brake parts will be in by Friday. Looks like we are ahead of schedule for once.
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:18 AM   #126
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I think you've replaced or gone through everything possible on that Goshen. Impressive, and in record time.
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