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Old 06-08-2016, 08:55 AM   #191
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,221
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by gameseven View Post
Jazty,
Love your work and your posts!!!! I was hoping the thread would not end. Looking forward to more of your progress!!
Here is the second of my builds. Keep up the good work!!!
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ga...fics-7040.html
Very nice, Gameseven! Are there any shorty KWs out there? That'd be rad.. If not, well, it'd be kind of a shame, but also amazing to cut one down to be a short bus. Maybe if you happened to find one that serendipitously had half it's body rusted away, or something...
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Old 06-09-2016, 06:02 AM   #192
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 30
Not sure of any shorty KW's but I really like the Bluebirds and the Thomas' busses. I think 25-28 ft would be ideal! I really like your conversion!
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Old 06-12-2016, 03:07 PM   #193
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Oakland
Posts: 4
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Oh, right.. and to elaborate on the spray foam:

The walls have about 3" spray foam in them. It was a real pain in the *ss to get it evenly sprayed between and under the strapping. There was a lot of waste, which was later trimmed down by a 5amp grinder with a braided wire wheel cup on it. Holy freakin' dang blasted foam dust mess!! But dealing with the clean up was easier than trying to cut it with hack saw blades and the like. Tyvek suit, respirator and eye protection is a must. But really, for anyone who is considering spray foaming anything more than the most trivial wall layouts, heed this advice: PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT!

It really works wonders, though. My little radiant kerosene heater pulled the bus interior from -3C to 25C (26.6F to 77F) before I opened more windows (always have one cracked with the kero heater, for those not in the know).
Hey O,
Bus looks cool... getting ready to strip and potentially take on the spray foam job ourselves.... I wonder if you used the spray foam called Foam it Green. It seems like it could be a potentially easy way at it. Just curious, thanks a bunch
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:55 PM   #194
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,221
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by LooNeeBus View Post
Hey O,
Bus looks cool... getting ready to strip and potentially take on the spray foam job ourselves.... I wonder if you used the spray foam called Foam it Green. It seems like it could be a potentially easy way at it. Just curious, thanks a bunch
Yep, that's the exact stuff I used. It comes in two propane tank sized containers. My advice is to avoid it unless a professional installation costs exorbitantly more than the Foam It Green. Around here you can get a professional contractor to do the job for around the same price as buying 2 kits. That's another good point: you'll likely need 1 more kit than you expect if you go the DIY route. I will avoid the DIY spray foam like ebola in the future
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:53 AM   #195
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
I've been hearing a clunk coming from the rear-right brake for some time and with a trip coming up it is high time to fix it. While I have things apart I'll also use a flap wheel to clean up the springs for a smoother ride. Here's the progress:


Popped the axle shaft out. It's real easy. Just a couple bolts and it slides right out.



Oh, don't forget to drain the differential! I forgot and some gear oil dumped out of the hub.

The bearings also need to be removed. I don't own such a giant socket so I used a chisel and tapped the retainer nuts out.



The next step was to disconnect the flexible brake line coming from the caliper and the solid brake line on the axle. Then I grabbed the Moto4 and pulled the wheel assembly off!
I have a friend who is a heavy-duty truck mechanic and he says that when they're doing this job on logging trucks out in the bush they use a slab of cardboard with grease smeared all over it so the wheel assembly slides easily out. I didn't want to deal with the mess







This is the rotor I'm going to replace. I suspect that, due to the caliper sticking and overheating the rotor, it is now warped. 10 bolts takes it off.



Pffft.. those pads are hardly worn! I'll be reusing them.



Took the leaf springs off. They are strapped so I can remove the center bolt. It worked well. I used an angle grinder and split the nut in half. One whack with the hammer and the spring pack separated. The straps worked well to keep things from taking off.



Cleaned up the first caliper. Everything is rusty on this bus, but I haven't found any rust that is affecting it's safety. This caliper is a prime example. It has all sorts of surface rust, but, despite the rubber boots around the pistons being cracked, the cylinder bores are in fine shape.


This is one of the pistons. They are of the phenolic type, so don't rust. Awesome.
I don't know much about phenolic caliper pistons, but word on the street is that they transmit less heat to the fluid. Despite that it seems that lots of people don't like them because they're more prone to sticking. I would have expected them to be LESS likely to stick, but that's what internet tells me.


That's all for now! I'll be back at it this afternoon.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:09 PM   #196
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,221
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Here's how I've been popping out the caliper pistons, by the way.



I start with a couple wood spacers in the caliper so that the pistons don't expand out too far. The first time I used a 2x4 and some plywood scraps. Then I put a compressed air gun up to the brake line and pop them out. Next remove one of the spacers and repeat. Do this until you can easily yank them out the rest of the way.

If you don't do it this way it is usually the case that one of the pistons will pop out while the other stays in place. The wood also helps to protect them from getting damaged.
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Old 06-29-2016, 10:08 PM   #197
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,221
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
One leaf pack complete!




All of the leafs have been cleaned and flap-wheeled. I especially worked hard to polish the points where the ends of the leaves rub. Then I treated them with Ospho and painted them with a zinc galvanizing paint made by ProStar (Praxair). I expect it'll all wear off in the areas that the leaves rub, but it should remain in the low spots to help hold back rust.
You can also see the anti-friction material that was put between the leaves. Hopefully this will soften the ride further. I considered flipping or removing the bottom leaf to soften things, but decided against it. I felt that it would add some unnecessary stress to an aging leaf pack.
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:49 PM   #198
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Location: So Cal
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Year: 1935
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Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Probably a good idea to keep the entire leaf pack for the reason you pointed out. You should now have enough slip and slide to get a pretty good ride. Jack
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Old 07-02-2016, 12:43 PM   #199
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[QUOTE=jazty;151692]G'day Jdhill! Yes, my roof is a bit taller than the stock high-roof models. Simply flipping the transition cap would bring the roof to the stock high-roof model height, but I pushed even higher than that. This made it difficult to fit the cap, since the roof mating surfaces were no longer parallel, but I was able to make it work with some careful hammering and riveting then a liberal application of Supra Expert caulk to fill the gap between the rear mating surface of the cap and the roof

Thanks for the info. How much higher were you able to go above the stock high roof height. One of the options I am looking at is having a transition made that is 6" taller the the stock high roof transition. Doing the roof rise does not look to complicated, just the front transition. I don't want my bus to be to high, I like to go down lots of back roads.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:26 AM   #200
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,221
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Well, there's a big gap where I forgot to take pictures. In a nutshell the wheels are back on. There was some mucking about with getting parts since I bent one of the new axle seals and had to order another one. Also, I had a hell of a time getting an axle seal that would fit. The one I pulled out was a Stemco 2057 and there are many cross-referenced parts to choose from, but I tried a handful and the only other one-piece seal that would fit was a CR 35000.

I may go into more detail about the process later. I wanted to quickly share the few pictures I did take today. To start with, though, I'll post a link to this great guide from Timken for setting your bearing pre-load:
http://www.timken.com/en-us/solutions/automotive/aftermarket/heavyduty/documents/timken-wheel-adjustment-procedures.pdf
. It's all pretty straightforward. You'll just need a 3.25" socket and a torque wrench that goes above 200lb/ft.

Oh, and you'll have to figure out how to bend the tangs on the lock washer. And this is what I'd like to mention today.

On many lighter-duty axles the two axle lock nuts are located close to the end of the hub so that you can get a beefy screw driver in there and lever the tangs upwards to lock the outer nut. This wasn't the case with these hubs. The tangs were so deep in the hub that there was no way to pry them upwards in that manner. I had to get a bit creative.

Here's a picture of the inner bearing, the axle nuts and the tang washer.


And here we have a couple terrible pictures of a bolt that I altered so that it could fit behind a tang (by the way, that's Por15 on my finger nail, not a hideous bruise). I ground down the head so that it could fit between the axle and the hub, then I used a cut-off disc to make a slot just behind the head. With this I was able to get behind the tang and use a wrench to pull the tang outward. That loose nut in there is to level the washers against the hub.





That loose nut in there is to level the washers against the hub.
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