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Old 01-26-2017, 10:26 PM   #11
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Good idea the deck. Plan to do one on mine someday.
However i hear that welding to the frame is not ideal and that good bolts are better

Good luck!
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:11 PM   #12
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Redd & Goatherder I get your point about the exits.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:59 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
I had a couple of C-channel extensions fabbed to fit snugly inside my rear frame rails and bolted them in place. The deck will attach to them.
^^THIS^^ is the thing to do if at all possible. And bridge any splice that exists in the aft frame section. That's how truck frames get extended. I thot about doing this, but there is a bigass rectangle tube welded diagonally between the rear frame rails which terminates 4" fwd of the bumper. That, and I want the deck supports angling upwards so as to not create any extra "departure angle" or whatever the Jeepers call that. (when you snag the ass-end on obstacles)

I ghettoshopped a pic in MS Paint. I'll see if I can post it up.

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Old 01-27-2017, 01:58 AM   #14
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I have always maintained the underpinnings of the van/cut-away buses don't amount to very much. Your pictures really show how very little there really is under there. And the older ones that were built on the real cut-away chassis that have the steel floor of the original van under the bus floor have even less structure.

In regards to the way in which the rear emergency door opens, I think the comments about it rolling onto the service door side is a valid point.

If it should ever roll over onto the driver's side the service door would then be at the top and could be used as an emergency exit. Plus the windshields on all buses are mounted in rubber. If you kick hard enough into a corner you can pop the windshields out.

Regardless of how you beef everything up, make sure that you are not overloading the truck under your bus. School buses by their nature are not very light since they use so much steel in them. The weight rating of all of the van/cut-away chassis max out around 14K. But you can exceed the weight rating of the axles fairly easily. And the tires can support only so much weight as well.

Before you head out on your next adventure you should stop by somewhere and weigh your bus fully loaded and ready for adventure. You might be shocked at how much you weigh. Especially considering what your GVWR might be.

Good luck and happy trails.
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Old 01-27-2017, 08:53 AM   #15
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Welding on frames is frowned upon and even pronounced "verboten" by GM in several tech flyers. But, given that the tail section is not really subjected to the kind of loading as the central portion, I expect it can be gotten away with as long as the weight applied to the extension is minimal.

But personally, I went with with bolt ons just to be safe. And, I also had to spread the distance between the rails while I was at it in order to make room for a place to hang a spare tire. Here's a couple of pix...


C-Channel frame extensions


The actual deck frame will rest on top of these and also bolt in place. That way if some nitwit (such as myself) ever damages part of the deck it will be a lot easier to repair than if all welded.

I have all the steel cut for the deck frame and will likely start assembling it fairly soon. The only weight it will carry will be a little Honda genny and, just maybe, a small dirt bike. Still thinking that one through.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
I have always maintained the underpinnings of the van/cut-away buses don't amount to very much. Your pictures really show how very little there really is under there. And the older ones that were built on the real cut-away chassis that have the steel floor of the original van under the bus floor have even less structure.

In regards to the way in which the rear emergency door opens, I think the comments about it rolling onto the service door side is a valid point.

If it should ever roll over onto the driver's side the service door would then be at the top and could be used as an emergency exit. Plus the windshields on all buses are mounted in rubber. If you kick hard enough into a corner you can pop the windshields out.

Regardless of how you beef everything up, make sure that you are not overloading the truck under your bus. School buses by their nature are not very light since they use so much steel in them. The weight rating of all of the van/cut-away chassis max out around 14K. But you can exceed the weight rating of the axles fairly easily. And the tires can support only so much weight as well.

Before you head out on your next adventure you should stop by somewhere and weigh your bus fully loaded and ready for adventure. You might be shocked at how much you weigh. Especially considering what your GVWR might be.

Good luck and happy trails.
Well, thats why I'm beefing the structure up under there. This bus has the truck frame with the box's frame mounted on top of it. Box has it's own separate frame; this is a flat-deck bus so the floor is raised up above where wheelwells would be.

Re: weight - this bus had 9600 lbs empty weight on the placard, and it was 10k even on the scales at the dump, with me and the dog and 1/2 tank of fuel. And with a loaded rating of 14k, I'm thinkin I'll be OK. Tires are upgraded way beyond stock tires - 3200-3500 lb rating.

I find it hard to believe that I'll pack 4000 lbs more crap in this thing. Even with a composting toilet.
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Old 01-27-2017, 09:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Welding on frames is frowned upon and even pronounced "verboten" by GM in several tech flyers. But, given that the tail section is not really subjected to the kind of loading as the central portion, I expect it can be gotten away with as long as the weight applied to the extension is minimal.

But personally, I went with with bolt ons just to be safe. And, I also had to spread the distance between the rails while I was at it in order to make room for a place to hang a spare tire. Here's a couple of pix...

The actual deck frame will rest on top of these and also bolt in place. That way if some nitwit (such as myself) ever damages part of the deck it will be a lot easier to repair than if all welded.

I have all the steel cut for the deck frame and will likely start assembling it fairly soon. The only weight it will carry will be a little Honda genny and, just maybe, a small dirt bike. Still thinking that one through.
Looks good. I am trying to do this without removing or disturbing my rear bumper, as it is now properly located & sealed to the body with some kind of rubber goop. I'd just have to put it back...so why remove it if I can get away without. Also, the bumper on this thing is flat, 11"x 1.5" x 3/16" channel. The deck will bolt directly to this rear bumper, and the bumper will still be removable just like it is now.

Basically I'm adding structure to the frame ahead of the bumper to allow the bumper to be strong enuf to support the deck.
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Old 01-27-2017, 10:52 AM   #18
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Tango, I'm going to be in your neck of the woods in about an hour(it's 10:45 right now). I will be @ N. Shepherd & 610. Give me a call if you can meet. 832-643-1225. Sometimes my phone does not ring. If so I will call you back.
Bobby
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Old 01-28-2017, 03:08 PM   #19
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Finally got Photobucket to work. Ghettoshop of bus with folding back deck.



(Ghettoshop being a "ghetto" version of a proper Photoshopped image. I did this in MS Paint. Its cheezy.

Here's my idea for the framing:
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:30 PM   #20
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