Last Week's Update
It's been raining a lot, but since the roof isn't leaking anymore (YES!) it's easy to work inside the bus. The main thing to do this week was investigate what that leak in the gutter above the rear doors has been up to, and use some expanding foam to fill in a few areas around the floor.
Back Door Leak
The more I looked at that rust in the structure over the back doors, the more I thought I really needed to get in there and see what it was like inside the hollow metal enclosure. So out came the angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. And what I found was there'd been a long-term leak that was coming in via that seam in the gutter. And of course rust as a result. Who in their right (engineering) mind puts a seam right inside of a thing that's supposed to hold, pool, and channel water!?
The culprit for the leak that was coming in over the back doors
Inside metal above back door chopped off to reveal rust
Holes in the metal that came out after some wire wheel work to take off the rust
The open seam in the gutter has been all caulked inside and out, and the interior metal all wire wheeled, treated with Ospho, and repainted. Ultimately I'll need to seal up those pinholes holes in the metal, but fortunately it's in an area that shouldn't get further water exposure now that I've fixed the leaking.
I <3 Expanding Foam
Expanding foam is so much fun to play with! But you just have to make sure you've got enough stuff to use the whole can, otherwise it just dries in the tube and you have to chuck the whole thing!
There was a gap all around the base of the new flooring I did that needed to be taken care of, along with some smaller gaps around the wheel wells and the wall. I picked up a can of closed cell foam (I forget the brand, but not "Great Stuff") and went to town.
Drivers side rear foaming
Foam around wheel wells
Just too much fun
Foam trimmed down with a thin/long knife blade
Prepping the Wall Above the Back Doors
So above the aforementioned leaking back doors, there is a large expanse of rather unsupported metal due to the lift. I needed to make it stop flexing and popping, but also needed something to attach a piece of plywood to for finishing off the back wall.
What I did was basically use the same approach as I did with the floor. I used construction adhesive and screws to attach 1-by pre-primed wood to the surface. But in this case the screws are from the outside.
It really made the back metal much more even as well as took out all the "pop" that you'd get when you pushed on it. The metal from the lift is pretty thin, and also not super flat and prone to noisily popping in/out when you push on it. This helped a lot with that "not flat" part.
Just one picture but it should give you the idea...
For reference, the lower part of that wall that's painted brown is the new metal from the lift.
Still need to put up some more strips around the outer edges, but after that I'll put sheet foam in between, then cover the whole thing with some 1/2" plywood that will then get covered with something nice and/or paintable. I'm hoping this will be a sufficiently rigid setup that I can then use to mount some lightweight shelves or storage - nothing heavy.
Speaking of Foam Sheeting
I've been wondering about what kind of adhesive to use for gluing the foam to the inner walls and ceiling, and specifically how to do it fairly cheaply. I did a bit of an experiment today with a hot glue gun, and found that it does a good job. Yes it might get a bit loose over time, or even melt some in the hot sun, but once the inner walls go up, they will hold the foam pretty snugly in place. The hot glue gun is a good way to put it up quickly without getting all exotic adhesivey (and spendy).