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04-26-2017, 10:59 PM
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#61
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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As I understand it, the Great Stuff needs to be able to cool off to get solid. Otherwise it droops like slime and hardens. As long as it's touching at least one metal surface, so it can cool down, it seems to work.
I've filled everything I could fill with canned foam, even inside the ribs. I haven't cut a rib open to check but it seems to have worked fine. And as a bonus, this baby should float.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-27-2017, 05:28 AM
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#62
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
As I understand it, the Great Stuff needs to be able to cool off to get solid. Otherwise it droops like slime and hardens. As long as it's touching at least one metal surface, so it can cool down, it seems to work.
I've filled everything I could fill with canned foam, even inside the ribs. I haven't cut a rib open to check but it seems to have worked fine. And as a bonus, this baby should float.
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Dude be real careful with Great Stuff. It can be corrosive to metals and doesn't cure in closed areas.
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04-27-2017, 08:58 AM
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#63
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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I've already made that mistake months ago, so there's always hope for my second bus.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-27-2017, 10:31 AM
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#64
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 340
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Dude be real careful with Great Stuff. It can be corrosive to metals and doesn't cure in closed areas.
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I've always heard that its not the great stuff itself that is corrosive to metal, just that you can easily trap moisture behind it and that will cause corrosion. But couldn't that same problem happen with legit spray foam if the surface wasn't prepared correctly when sprayed?
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04-27-2017, 10:38 AM
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#65
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Great Stuff is indeed corrosive to bare metal. Also...never try to inject it into a closed space. It will never cure except for a thin layer around the edges.
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04-27-2017, 11:30 AM
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#66
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PigPen
I've always heard that its not the great stuff itself that is corrosive to metal, just that you can easily trap moisture behind it and that will cause corrosion. But couldn't that same problem happen with legit spray foam if the surface wasn't prepared correctly when sprayed?
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No tis the chemicals in Great Stuff. They don't cure properly in any kind of enclosed space, and they react with the metal.
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04-27-2017, 12:09 PM
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#67
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Ok, you made me curious about the foam in my ribs. I checked five rivet holes on ribs throughout the bus and all had properly cured foam in them except for one. I can't say if that's a consistent rate of failure or not, but I don't think it's worth worrying about.
Perhaps it will corrode the metal at some point. If that's true about the chemicals in Great Stuff it would seem that any contact between the foam chemicals and metal skin and ribs, not in enclosed areas, would also eventually have a corrosive reaction because of the chemicals and contact with steel surfaces.
So far the foam inside the ribs stopped the leaking problem, which is why I considered the foam solution in the first place, based on my memory of someone else previously doing the same thing. All I can say is it worked, otherwise I'd need a gutter system mounted on my chair rail.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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04-27-2017, 12:40 PM
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#68
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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No use worrying about it now. We all make mistakes and move on. Good for anyone out there reading along to know for the future, though.
Funny you mention the gutter system. The chair rail IS sort of a gutter from the factory. The condensation that doesn't get trapped in the fiberglass batting runs down the walls and drains down through the bottom of the chair rail. On my bus that's how it is, anyhow.
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04-27-2017, 12:42 PM
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#69
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 340
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
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Interesting. It should be fine on primed metal that isnt covered until after it cures though, correct? That was my plan.
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04-27-2017, 01:06 PM
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#70
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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It became very obvious that my side panels need to drain about the time the heavy fall rains started. No I'm not going to worry about it. I'm pretty sure this bus will outlast me.
That's the thing about being offline for ten months last year while I was working on this bus. I had no way to ask questions, and my memory aint that great. On the bright side I got more work done because I wasn't messing around with the internet.
I don't mean to be crass, but I'd do it again to stop the leaking.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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07-08-2017, 06:48 PM
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#71
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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Well finally getting back at it after a couple months out of the country for work. To follow up on the conversation...
1. I used Hytech seam sealer and patch tape to seal the seams first, then Hytech Buskote paint. I plan to do another coat of paint, then clear coat pretty soon here.
2. I did use Great Stuff to fill the gaps gaps, but I didn't spray any inside of the ribs or any closed spaces as per advice seen in the forum. I don't believe any of it is in contact with any uncoated metal either, maybe a little here and there.
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07-08-2017, 07:24 PM
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#72
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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07-08-2017, 08:07 PM
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#73
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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this bus is looking great inside!. love the idea of the back wall. and storage area behind
-Christopher
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07-15-2017, 09:31 PM
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#74
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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Created a frame for the skylight this week. Not perfect, but I'm happy with it. Tried to match the style and color of the exhaust fan, I think they look pretty good together.
Before.
Wood frame I made, matching the ceiling contour.
Test fit.
Skylight and fan.
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07-15-2017, 09:32 PM
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#75
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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sure looks like it came out great!
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07-17-2017, 09:20 PM
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#76
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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Been staring at this area over the doorway every time I walk in and out of the bus for the past few days... Any suggestions or photos to share? I have a few ideas, but I'm not in love with any of them. Not a lot of places attach more planks, and some interesting angles/contours to deal with as well.
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07-18-2017, 08:38 AM
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#77
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Good place for an upholstered head-banger pad.
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07-23-2017, 07:45 PM
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#78
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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I've been spending a lot of time with the tedious details this last week. Trimming out all the windows, tying up some things I've been putting off, and finally framed, insulated and covered the front area.
Windows trimmed out.
Before.
Framed and insulated. Attached 1x3's to the steel frame with metal self taping screws. The center/uninsulated area will be a storage area and access area for the lights and wiring.
How things are looking as of today. Will be cutting the storage area / access panel back out later.
Coming along!
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07-23-2017, 08:26 PM
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#79
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 938
Chassis: GMC or Chevrolet, I hope
Engine: gasser probably
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Thanks !!!!
one day I'll build one just like yours.
please, keep the images coming and big thanks
__________________
the more i learn, the less I know what to buy . . .
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07-29-2017, 08:36 PM
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#80
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Almost There
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 77
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
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Some updates from the last few evenings and today.
Fitting and re-painting the storage box that covered the electrical above the drivers seat
Cut out storage / access area, won't be re-using the original door for this one since it was broken anyways
Cut out the bathroom built in shelves
Finally decided how I wanted to tackle covering this area over the entry door. Still a lot of weird angles and contours, but squaring out the busy body taper made things a bit easier.
Finished, will probably put a small access door in the end since there is a decent amount or storage space after boxing in the angled area. Plenty of head clearance too
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