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Old 11-07-2017, 07:53 PM   #11
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 19
Originally Posted by Twigg View Post
Those lifts all seem to be rated to lift at least 700 lb. They would lift my FJR1300, but getting it turned and into the bus would be a problem as the bike is too long to lift with the front or back pointed at the bus.
The 2 main bikes ill be loading are a buell xb9r with a super short 52" wheelbase and a wr450 supermoto. I had planned on loading them sideways but i could make wheel chocks and load them front to back too, not sure which would be easier.

Im currently building the trailer hitch. I started with a piece of 4" square 3/16" wall tube. The 2" receiver will go through the center of the tube and protrude through the bumper. I dont want to loose any departure angle with that long rear overhang.

In other news it looks like i need some new battery's. The 2 blue top optimas dont seem to be holding a charge very well. Does anyone have any budget minded recommendations?

Im also contemplating having another set of deep cells for running other stuff but not cranking the bus. Im not the best with electronics.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:29 PM   #12
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Greater Houston, Tx.
Posts: 549
Look at Dredman's latest bus. He just uses a regular, single, ramp, attached to the lift at a point where the whole bike fits on the combined parts. Secures the bars, via strap, to the handrail on the lift, up they go, and bike rolls in. I'm sure it's much like getting things in your pants just right, and some adjusting might be needed.
Hope everything fits(-:
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Old 11-07-2017, 10:48 PM   #13
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Moodus, Ct.
Posts: 1,062
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Champion
Chassis: Ford e-450
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 14
I've done things both ways. Currently have a E450 used as a tow vehicle. (I have a hitch mounted bike carrier for times I'm camping and not trailering) And before that I had a Cube van that I hauled race bikes and (small) race cars in. Same size-same shape-same chassis+ overall layout. I've had a long hate of trailers-fought it for as many years as I could-but we (and when I say we I mean SHE ) needed more amenities camping. Before it was 5ft living area and 10ft car--now its 10 ft living area and a 5 ft area in back for a shop.
Don't make a fuss-just get on the bus!

my bus build
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:45 PM   #14
Almost There
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 81
Running the bikes sideways will take up less living space which is one of the reasons I bought the bus over a type II ambulance as I can put 4 bikes in the length of 1.
As for the lift and the bikes and weight, it's the design of where the center of gravity is, up against the body and not in the middle of the lift body. Granted they are tested with a 750# weight in the center, but that's a one time lift not multiple. I have a folder down ramp that I tie to the handles until I figure out something else and finish lifting it.
2002 E450 Thomas/ U-JOINT 4X4 family hauler
1954 Crown 35 foot RV conversion
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:32 PM   #15
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 19
started on my trailer hitch today.
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Old 11-11-2017, 09:07 PM   #16
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 138
You could look at blem batteries. I can get any size for $35. I had one in my Jeep for 3 years. The alternator bearing took a dump & I changed the battery with another blem when I replaced the alternator.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:21 AM   #17
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 19
Thank you, Ill look and see if I can find some blems local.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:31 AM   #18
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 19
spent a little time last night and tacked my new hitch to the frame. the drivers side rail is a little twisted and i pulled most of the twist out before tacking it in.
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Old 11-15-2017, 06:45 PM   #19
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 658
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
Hope your welder's running hot enough to penetrate the heat treated steel.
If your using wire the welds might look pretty especially if you didn't clean the paint but that doesn't meen the weld actually penetrated the tempered metal? In my mind some grade 6-8 bolts are in order or a stick welder with a 60 rod as a penetrator and a 70 rod as a high strength cover with a spray bottle with oil sprayed while hot to keep the temper in the metal.
I know a lot of us don't care about manufacturers specs because we are not held to them but your and the others insurance company will eat your !!! If there is ever a problem? They are going to anyway but a custom hitch hauling a trailer comes loose from a SKOOLIE?
Not saying your not doing it right? And not trying step on toes?
A wire welder won't stick to heat treated steel properly without some extra steps.
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:26 PM   #20
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 19

According to this Ford document you can weld on the frame. The bumper mounts and some braces are welded on by the bus manufacturer. I have a 300 amp tig machine ill be using.

The only frames im familiar with that are heat treated are semi tractor frames, everything is either bolted or riveted.
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