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Old 03-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #101
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
ECCB - I moved this cooling thread over here as I think we were starting to jack the food truck dude's thread..

my thinking and path is similar.. the idea for mine is
pull the radiator and have it looked at to see if its a mess.. (before I spend big $$ on a new one..).. most radiator shops will look at em cheap..

replace the water pump and LPOP(with an m20.... look in my Oil cooler to see if it looks in good shape or not.. ICP and IPR since the front will be accessible.(about once every 3 weeks I do set an ICP code for the first 2 minutes I start the bus).. new A/C belt and new Serp belt..

if my rad is shot I'll replace that..

if I still run warm im going to install an EC-450 Clutch I can run off the computer and not worry about the 1/2 rad stuff.. as the fan will control via coolant temp and not air temp from the rad.

my tensioner is already new, fan clutch is new.

-Christopher

P.S. when you get ready to tear apart, let me know, I have the special wrenches you need to get the Fan clutch hub nut loose from the water pump.
Very cool, I'll let ya know. Those will be handy to have!
Yeah, I'm planning pretty much the same thing as you but I'm expecting the worst due to the age, mileage, hours, and physical appearance of the rad.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:57 PM   #102
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,569
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
my temp gauge on the dash is also inaccurate... on the low end it reads too low.. on the high end it reads too high...

the gauge works from the computer sensor.. there is no separate sensor for the dash gauge.. ive seen my gauge reading right in the middle between the 1/4 mark and 1/2 mark (175 and 210).. the computer will show the temp at say 200.. then bam the gauge movesd very quickly up and past the 210 mark to estimated 215.. yet the computer shows the temp went from 200-202..

the real tell tale omn yours is we need to read the computer and see if the gauge matches.. or if in fact you are running cooler..

Ive matched my computer sensor t oactual temp usingf my 'ray gun' and they are pretty much dead on together...
-Christopher
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:37 AM   #103
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
So after a week or two now of normal use, the wipers are DEFINITELY fixed!
No weirdness with em any more.
I'm gonna replace a bad looking connector to my front right heater, and see if that resolves my heater gremlin. Certainly needs doing, either way.
Not that I NEED the heater for about 6 or 8 months now.

I went to remove the WC lift yesterday, but after playing with it and testing it out, I'm gona keep it, at least for now.
The whole thing is in great shape and works great too. THe front side of the base is rusted a good bit, gonna see what a wire brushing and some Ospho do.

Anyone know where I could find a rust free WC door for an AmTran?
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Old 04-05-2017, 07:56 AM   #104
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: New Carlisle, Ohio
Posts: 137
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Fisher Body
Chassis: GM "B" Platform
Engine: 350 TBI Chevrolet
Rated Cap: 8
Ball-peen hammer and a catcher's mitt. You've got a good welder!

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Old 04-05-2017, 04:57 PM   #105
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
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Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stewzer55 View Post
Ball-peen hammer and a catcher's mitt. You've got a good welder!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
true that...
I'm just hoping to find a cheap nice one and do it the easy way, for a change.
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Old 04-08-2017, 04:55 PM   #106
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Opened up the WC door, let down the lift and gave the rust a healthy dose of wire wheel, then doused it in Ospho heavily. Will let that do its thing for a day or two then I'll spray it with some black rustoleum rust converter stuff, then regular black topcoat.
WC lift is cool, works great, and could be REALLY handy especially since we love our mopeds so much!
On the WC lift- do they normally rattle around and rock back and forth? Mines a rattly annoyance while driving.
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:24 PM   #107
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 552
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
My 98 International with Ricon lift is silent.
But it looks like it was not used enough to wear the paint off the high points of the expanded metal floor.
Maybe yours has worn bushings at all of the hinge points.
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:27 PM   #108
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
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Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
My 98 International with Ricon lift is silent.
But it looks like it was not used enough to wear the paint off the high points of the expanded metal floor.
Maybe yours has worn bushings at all of the hinge points.
Maybe so. Thing looks nearly new, though. Definitely wiggles and wobbles around when on the road.
Still may ditch it, but IDK. Having fun with it for now.
Thanks for the reply, that's what I was afraid of!
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:34 PM   #109
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 552
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
When it is in the stowed position ratchet strap it to the wall.
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:06 PM   #110
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
When it is in the stowed position ratchet strap it to the wall.
I may try this if pool noodles don't quiet it.
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