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Old 04-23-2017, 07:34 AM   #161
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that rocks!!! 180-210 is definitely normal for that engine..

do you ever notice if the fan goes crazy when you run the temp up to 210 or so?

the weather turned cool up here.. im still P***D that I had to miss the gathering.. its made my weekend bummy.. esp when with summer coming theres not likely to be any florida skoolies for awhile.. alas my Fan hasnt even run in like 3 days.. I noticed since I did the rad flush, coolant change, watter wetter, etc that the natural cooling without fan seems to be more efficient.. whats interesting is that now I have ZERO fan when the clutch is off.. whereas before I had like 25% fan all the time..

im thining if you did nothing more than FLush, steam the rad, go to a 40/60 or 25/75 mix with water-wetter type stuff, and we make sure your clutch works then you may not need to spend the big $$ on a full rad replacement.. at least not right away.. save the $$ for RYO getting it buttoned up and water-tight.

-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:27 AM   #162
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Maybe its my tinnitus but I just don't really ever notice the fan.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:48 AM   #163
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Maybe its my tinnitus but I just don't really ever notice the fan.
if you arent hearing a distinct ROAR.. think like when a Semi truck turning a corner goes by you with that crazy loud fan sound... yours on High speed would sound the same.. im guessing your clutch is staying at minimums and not fully engaging..

if your clutch is good, then when you first start the bus and drive you'll get that fan roar sound for like the first 1 or 2 minutes you drive, exp when the revs go over like 1500-2000. then it goes away until temperature..

its a lower pitched sound so should be heard over tinnitus.

-Christopher
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:14 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
if you arent hearing a distinct ROAR.. think like when a Semi truck turning a corner goes by you with that crazy loud fan sound... yours on High speed would sound the same.. im guessing your clutch is staying at minimums and not fully engaging..

if your clutch is good, then when you first start the bus and drive you'll get that fan roar sound for like the first 1 or 2 minutes you drive, exp when the revs go over like 1500-2000. then it goes away until temperature..

its a lower pitched sound so should be heard over tinnitus.

-Christopher
I've tried to notice it. When I start the bus, it seems like its working.
Just can't hear anything at speed. Maybe its the WC lift rattling around loudly, idk.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:30 AM   #165
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it may never be engaging fully at speed.. Factory on the electric clutch is 212 coolant temp.. so im guessing they try and emulate that with the Viscous,

the facotry adjustment on my Old Viscous clutch before I lowered it, had me up to about 216 at times before the fan every kicked in.. if I dropped my RPMs.. the fan would pull up... there are centrifical forces at work in a viscous clutch which sometimes raise the engagement temperature at higher RPMs ..

once I lowered my temperature then at full RPM (2400-2600) I would get engagement at 205 or so MOST times.. but still was inconsistent and sometimes would only run for a couple minutes or so..

according to Borg-Warner that was mostly normal for a viscous... a Clogged radiator would make the situation worse..

with the electric clutch I have very definite setpoints.. I have my sensor for the fan in the top of the waterpump on the engine side of the Thermostat.. so im using the Hottest water to measure my fan temp from.. right after it comes out of the engine and is about ready to be released to the top radiator hose..

in a truly technical sense I should be measuring it at the inlet of the water pump to gauge how efficient the radiator has been...

My fan result is more defined from how much the engine has been cooled which I feel is the right place to be.. the on-temp is a bit zealous but is more in-tune with engine load.. if I nail it hard to pump a hill, my temp will start to jump quick as im seeing the heated water.. so I kick the fan...

when I get off the power, the fan kicks off after the residual engine heat has bene transferred to the coolant.. im providing a nicely cooled coolant to the engine.. so I go fan off once the engine has been cooled, not so much the rad..

the results are my temp fluctuates a bit.. but I also have Max cooling to anticipate a heat load.. ie starting a hill climb my engine temp spikes and has the fan running before the rad is over-capacity..

perhaps a little too much science.. but I see its gonna be in the 90s this next week in the orlando area.. that stretch of I-4 about 10 miles south of orlando until about 15 miles north of Tampa seems to be Brutal on cooling... all the bridges are up-hills , the wind is usually head-wind.. the traffic is heavy, and the sun beaming.. so that will be a stretch I test my Bus out.. if it fails then I go to Full-Rad methods.. if it passes then I know its probably good for any place I'll take it..

-Christopher
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:52 PM   #166
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Nice!
Looking forward to hearing about that.

Today I started the process of replacing the roof hatch with a steel cover and RV style roof vent.
The buzzer didn't come on when I opened the hatch with the bus running. Huh.. Go figure. So I went ahead and disconnected the two wires, and now I just have to get a piece of steel cut and rivet it down. I'll have this done by the weekend!
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:22 PM   #167
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:00 PM   #168
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CB, you're going to have a plethera of cross top screws on hand when you take that bus apart. That perforated ceiling metal brings back bad memories too.
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:38 PM   #169
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Sure glad that hatch didn't do something wierd with the wiring and make the bus not start or something.

Did yours leak? Wait maybe there's not a such thing as one that doesn't..
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:20 PM   #170
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My hatch hasn't leaked all winter, and I open and close it frequently for ventilation.
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