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Old 05-01-2017, 03:40 PM   #221
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Foam baffles would help a lot, rubber isolation mounts if needed.
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Old 05-01-2017, 03:58 PM   #222
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part of what a speaker does is vibrate stuff.. I know that backfilling in my Jeep soundbar helped with that which was just a plastic enclosure bar.. i used poly-fill in that and it richened up the sound and helped to eliminate the resonance and tinniness ofit..

the dashboards of school busses arent built very well for speaker mounting..

ECCB's idea of mounting stuff near the floor sounds great for Subs, but im not sure the mids and highs are going to sound very good near the floor..

for my bus the nmore I think, im simply going to hang 2 6x9 enclose boxes in the front corners probably angle type boxes.. and then replace the existing ceiling speakers with something better like 5 1/4's or something and poly-fill up in there..

for me i mainly want the driver seat to have the best sound
-Christopher
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:05 PM   #223
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part of what a speaker does is vibrate stuff.. I know that backfilling in my Jeep soundbar helped with that which was just a plastic enclosure bar.. i used poly-fill in that and it richened up the sound and helped to eliminate the resonance and tinniness ofit..

the dashboards of school busses arent built very well for speaker mounting..

ECCB's idea of mounting stuff near the floor sounds great for Subs, but im not sure the mids and highs are going to sound very good near the floor..

for my bus the nmore I think, im simply going to hang 2 6x9 enclose boxes in the front corners probably angle type boxes.. and then replace the existing ceiling speakers with something better like 5 1/4's or something and poly-fill up in there..

for me i mainly want the driver seat to have the best sound
-Christopher
HIGH end car stereo's use kick panels for the highs.... I've had a couple HIGH dollar car stereos.
Boxes for all of them, I'll have enough power and enough speakers that placement won't matter a whole lot.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:31 PM   #224
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tell me more as im in the design (sort-of) phase for the stereo.. someone gave me a double DIN JVC stereo with bluetooth and aux and all.. and an amp and a 10" sub box to get started. but I need to figure out the rest of it..

I never knew the highs came out of the kick panels thats interesting... but come to think of it all of my cars with better stereos have speakers in the doors or kick panels or both..

-Christopher
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:38 PM   #225
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tell me more as im in the design (sort-of) phase for the stereo.. someone gave me a double DIN JVC stereo with bluetooth and aux and all.. and an amp and a 10" sub box to get started. but I need to figure out the rest of it..

I never knew the highs came out of the kick panels thats interesting... but come to think of it all of my cars with better stereos have speakers in the doors or kick panels or both..

-Christopher
For proper sound you want the sound to be "in front of you". So you put your highs in front and angle them so that they are both aimed at the driver's ears. You want to have them as close to the same distance from your ears as possible.
The sub doesn't matter much in its placement, as someone mentioned earlier bass is non-directional so it doesn't matter much. I'm gonna mount my 12" kicker sub under one of the seats mid-ship.
A couple rear speakers midship as well, for highs and lows for the rear passengers.
But the best car setup I had was a REALLY nice set of component speakers up front with a good amp pushing them at 100 rms and a 15" that could go DEEP and ran that with a ton of power. Simple system and sounded AMAZING.
But these are buses, so audiophile quality sound isn't as important.
Small boxes for mounting the speakers gives more flexibility of mounting, though and you can fine tune the sound before screwing them down to wherever you put them.

I wanna use the factory speaker locations in my bus for some cheapo speakers only to be used for the PA.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:45 PM   #226
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Did some additional work up top with the seam sealant today, and got rid of the rear door buzzer switch, box, and buzzer.
Two buzzers down now!
We got a little rain this afternoon, which I knew was coming, and tomorrow its gonna POUR.
So thurs or fri after work I'll go clean the roof up real well, sand it a bit in some spots, and probably slap a coat of white up there.
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Old 05-01-2017, 07:28 PM   #227
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Did some additional work up top with the seam sealant today, and got rid of the rear door buzzer switch, box, and buzzer.
Two buzzers down now!
We got a little rain this afternoon, which I knew was coming, and tomorrow its gonna POUR.
So thurs or fri after work I'll go clean the roof up real well, sand it a bit in some spots, and probably slap a coat of white up there.
sounds like you'll know right away if the new hatch cover leaks or not!
-Christopher
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Old 05-01-2017, 07:51 PM   #228
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sounds like you'll know right away if the new hatch cover leaks or not!
-Christopher
I'm not even considering it possible for that repair to EVER leak! Man, I'm real proud of how awesome it turned out. SO SOLID!!!


I really like the 550 seam sealant. The stuff is so easy to work with!

It rained this afternoon, so I didn't get started on removing the rear factory powered vent, but I'll slap the new cover over that later this week. Then I'll reseal all the seams on the entire top side of the bus.
Then I'll paint it all flat white and it should be good for many years.
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Old 05-01-2017, 08:03 PM   #229
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that cover sure looked good.. it layed down damn near perfectly flat on there!! your metal working skills show on these bus builds!
-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:48 AM   #230
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that cover sure looked good.. it layed down damn near perfectly flat on there!! your metal working skills show on these bus builds!
-Christopher
Thanks, man. I'm not a REAL fabricator, I just happened to work at a steel shop for over a decade. Never messed with rivets before but I LOVE them now!


I think the rain is already done. Not as much as we were hoping for.
no sign of any leakage at all, but no surprise there!
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