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Old 05-20-2017, 05:43 PM   #321
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
OH- and the duck should be here in two weeks, maybe less. BADASS!!!!


New bus name-
Pato Del Cielo
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:28 PM   #322
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,553
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
bad ass!!! does his eyes light up red? LOL

you prep like I do, take everything you can off and paint then put it back on.. makes for a nice clean look when you are done.. and makes the masking job alot easier too.
I still think some Jeep-style diamond plate corners would look great to get rid of the rust on that back.. just weld some metal in or bondo to fix the structure then plate over with diamond plate.. enough seam sealer in barriers like you did the roof hatch and nothin gonna get wet in there to rust again...

-Christopher
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:10 PM   #323
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
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Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
bad ass!!! does his eyes light up red? LOL

you prep like I do, take everything you can off and paint then put it back on.. makes for a nice clean look when you are done.. and makes the masking job alot easier too.
I still think some Jeep-style diamond plate corners would look great to get rid of the rust on that back.. just weld some metal in or bondo to fix the structure then plate over with diamond plate.. enough seam sealer in barriers like you did the roof hatch and nothin gonna get wet in there to rust again...

-Christopher
That's the plan- but one question.
Do I need the lower pair of tail lights?
There are the two tail lights up in the row with the turn signal and reverse lights, and then the two lower tail lights. If I can legally ditch the lower lights, then diamond plate will be the route I'll take for sure. Both sides, for symmetry.
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:25 PM   #324
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,553
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
legally i dont think you need them... i see plenty of motorhomes with just one set.. unless theres a state rule about tail lights at a certain height above ground-level.. that would be the only thing I could see... on mine they are also the license plate lights but thats an easy fix to have just a plate light off the wires..

honda made those older model CRV's with the tail lights up next to the back window instead of down on the bumper and sold those in all 50 states..

im trying to thoink if my carpenter even has those lights.. does RYO have them?
-Christopher
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:29 PM   #325
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
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Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
legally i dont think you need them... i see plenty of motorhomes with just one set.. unless theres a state rule about tail lights at a certain height above ground-level.. that would be the only thing I could see... on mine they are also the license plate lights but thats an easy fix to have just a plate light off the wires..

honda made those older model CRV's with the tail lights up next to the back window instead of down on the bumper and sold those in all 50 states..

im trying to thoink if my carpenter even has those lights.. does RYO have them?
-Christopher
Yeah RYO has the same lights in the rear, only older, no led's.
I guess I'll see if I can dig up the FL regulations for tail light height.
I like redundancy, but with big LED tail lights I don't feel like having an extra pair is necessary.
my tag light is a separate unit from my tail lights, its just run from a splice off the left lower tail light's power wire.
Once I get the rust under the lower right tail light under control and paneled over, all I've gotta do is figure out something to replace the horrible WC door and its PAINT TIME!
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:34 PM   #326
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,553
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the LED's of today are pretty reliable, they dont go out like they did a few years back.. befire I drive my bus every day i always walk around it anyway with the lights on to make sure they work... (not sure why I always forget i have the light monitor on the wall.. I havent tried taking a bulb out to see if that thing actually works...

-Christopher
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:18 PM   #327
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Driftless area, WI
Posts: 19
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3l Powerstroke (chipped)
What are you doing for all of this prep work? I have a e450 shorty that the previous owner didnt give a F*** when he did the paint job. John Deere green paint slapped all over it and peeling absolutely everywhere, he did no prep work and didnt care. I want to take it off and do it right. My first step is the roof. I will be doing it with elastomeric roof coating. Tomorrow I will be going to my cousins farm where I will be using their heated extremely high power pressure washer to try to blast some off.
I also have some of this (2 gallons) I will roll on before pressure washing.
After I get the old paint off what is the best way to "prep"?? I was just going to lightly sand and apply the roof coating. I am still trying to figure out preping techniques for oil based paint for the rest of the bus.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:47 PM   #328
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 13,264
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenThunder View Post
What are you doing for all of this prep work? I have a e450 shorty that the previous owner didnt give a F*** when he did the paint job. John Deere green paint slapped all over it and peeling absolutely everywhere, he did no prep work and didnt care. I want to take it off and do it right. My first step is the roof. I will be doing it with elastomeric roof coating. Tomorrow I will be going to my cousins farm where I will be using their heated extremely high power pressure washer to try to blast some off.
I also have some of this (2 gallons) I will roll on before pressure washing.
After I get the old paint off what is the best way to "prep"?? I was just going to lightly sand and apply the roof coating. I am still trying to figure out preping techniques for oil based paint for the rest of the bus.
Skip the elastomeric and go for plain flat or satin white.
As for the prep work, we've been keeping it all pretty up to date in the thread. Doing the basic type of body work and prep one would do to get a nice paint job on a car, but on a bus.
LOTS of sanding!
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Old 05-21-2017, 10:58 AM   #329
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 552
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
Forget looking up FL rules.
Go by Fed rules and your golden.
https://icsw.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/st...y/TBMpstr.html
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:01 AM   #330
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 552
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
Oh....short answer
Tail lights are to be 15 to 72 inches above road .
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