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Old 04-09-2016, 08:52 PM   #11
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Elf Bus E350 Corbeil lowering floor

Robin, sorry... bowling alley, great name. I will borrow that from you.

Later J
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:46 PM   #12
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Yes, I've seen buses with the lowered walkway. My guess is they put in crossmembers that duck below the floor.
There are so many different kinds of buses available on ebay. It's amazing. There's always a better bus.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:38 AM   #13
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I have a 96 E-Super Duty bus, and I've thought about lowering the floor. Would be very interested to see how you do it, or to scour any links if someone knows some.

My rear A/C is totally separate from the front. I have skirt condenser, and a rear DC compressor. I'm glad to hear that this is an easy setup, but I'm wondering why it's the best? Is it more efficient than a window unit? ...
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:59 AM   #14
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unusual to not have a condenser in front .. if its a rear-only system then your Ford dash controls likely wont have A/C .. if the van was originally A/C then maybe the coach builder pulled the condenser off the front of the radiator.. a skirt mounted condenser is more than capable of handlign 2 evaporators...

@sproutroot - engine driven A/C is only good for when you are driving.. converting 13 volts to 110 and then running a camper unit is less efficient for when you are driving.. however if you are going to be parked at a campground where you have shore-power you would want the rooftop A/C..

a lot of it depends on your use of the bus.. if you are going to spend alot of time on the road, leave the engine driven system for the drive and then install a rooftop for being parked / sleeping, etc..

if you plan to only drive short periods of time you may want to remove the engine-driven system to gain back the space.. however a bus-body without A/C (esp a corbeil style) will get extemely hot very quickly if you dont have A/C.

in my opinion theb ets of both worlds is to keep at least the front dash A/C and then have a rooftop camper Unit you can use with a generator or shore power..


since im planning to use my bus more on the road and not for over-night stays im going to go with only my engine driven system.. I'll leave my main engine idle when I want to A/C parked for awhile..

-Christopher
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:14 AM   #15
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Wow sproutroot, do you have a picture of the dc compressor part or a brand name / part number. I did a google search but nothing comes up in airco systems.
The lowering the floor is for now a wild thought. I first need to get some structure in this project. Covering the rear windows will be step one.
In our ambulance conversion we installed a 5000 btu window unit ( $96 new) and it did OK with that space and the marginal insulation. The bus airco systems have a much larger capacity. The large condensers and evaporaters can have a much better efficiency with smaller loads then a window airco. If you want to run on solar then that is a large benefit. Our Bulan was able to run 50% on off on solar.
Later J
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:20 AM   #16
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I actually have two separate A/C systems. The stock one, then a skirt condenser connected to a DC compressor that's mounted to the ceiling in the rear.

I was going to change it out for a rooftop unit, because it seems to me that the one I have is too big and the lines are too long to be very efficient. However:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the condenser you are speaking of is a skirt mounted condenser.. they do hang a bit low but are the best way to cool the rear of a bus..

-Christopher
Any more info on this? I could easily just mount the DC compressor closer to the skirt condenser if that's the most efficient route. It'd be a lot less harrowing than cutting a huge hole in the roof for a rooftop unit. Plus, as my dad pointed out, when parked it's better to have the condenser in the shade near the ground than on the roof in the sun.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:38 AM   #17
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Here are some pics for you. Trans/Air part #: 202683W serial #: E963729

When I looked up these numbers I got nothing.

The compressor is sitting on the floor in the corner, unfortunately I didn't get any shots of it before teardown. As you can see, the lines come up right in the middle of the floor (there used to be a bulkhead there because this bus came with a luggage compartment in the rear), so moving the compressor is on my to-do list anyway. It also needs at least some service.
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:41 AM   #18
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Elf Bus E350 Corbeil heat pump a/c

In our Bulan i originally toyed with he idea to put a small heat pump split system in. Did do it but it was clear that having a condensor at the coolest place is the most efficient. i am with your Dad, so under the bus in the shade is as good as it gets. As understand it rooftops have the condensor build in so they are right in the sun. Is your Dc compressor belt driven or enclosed. I have an electric car Solectria ( geo metro) that has a dc motor belt driven pump. In the DIY spirit that might be the cheapest and easiest solution.
Later J
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:46 AM   #19
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Thanks for the picture and name tag I will try to research a little more on that brand. Is the refridgerant R134a or something more exotic? Shorter lines would mean less charge= less expensive and I would think more efficient as well.
later J
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:02 AM   #20
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DC compressors are tough to come by and are quite expensive when you do.. Some of the tripac systems use DC compressors but typically only get you maybe 15000 btu max.. Rooftop units are in the sun however typically have more powerful fans ( they are 110 volt) so they run fairly efficient..

There are 12 volt DC inverter split systems made for solar applications.. They are heat pumps, however the size of them is more condusive to fitting for a house .. Taller and narrower as opposed to short and wide like is needed for under a bus. I did see someone mount the outdoor unit on the back of a bus one time and the indoor hung right above the emergency door.. The beauty of an inverter split is they are soft start so there's no surge current like a regular compressor ...

I hope you kept all your transair stuff as one really important thing about a/c if you want efficiency and solid operation is that you run a matched set of parts.. If you piece your own together then you need to make sure the capacities are matched! Also put tape over the lineset connections and plan on long long evacuation times when recharging as open systems , the pag oil holds moisture lots.. Moisture will trash an a/c system...

Transair stuff is good quality kit and worth saving if it all works
Christopher
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