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Old 09-20-2015, 08:39 AM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Corbeil
Chassis: Express 3500
Engine: 6.5TD
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Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
You should be fine.

A few of the members here have used hammocks mounted that way.

Nat
Awesome. That would keep everything out of the way and be just right for how I normally hang.


In other news, I just ordered a few gallons of bus-kote and bond-it primer for the roof. Picked up rust reformer, bondo and other supplies as well. I will be stopping by a wholesale vinyl warehouse to pick out a color for the sides and getting into the bodywork next week. Hoping to have the outside done by the end of next week so I can send it to my buddies shop to build the trailer hitch.

Cant wait to start using this thing at the track!
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:42 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
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Year: 2000
Coachwork: Corbeil
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Originally Posted by MadMaverick View Post
This is the only spot on the van where the rust has penetrated and created a hole. I will cut this out and graft in another piece when I get a chance.

Ive been rethinking this repair. I saw this piece of angle steel at Lowes and it got me thinking. I could cut out the bad spots under the nose of the coach body, treat remaining surface rust with OSPHO, then rivet in this piece across the whole front of the cab, seam seal and cover with Bus-Kote for a lasting repair.

Thoughts?
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:16 PM   #13
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Location: Whidbey Island, WA.
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Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
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Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
You might rethink your way of repair, but only if you want it to hold more than a couple of decades.
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Old 10-09-2015, 09:41 AM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Year: 2000
Coachwork: Corbeil
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Engine: 6.5TD
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Originally Posted by bus-bro View Post
You might rethink your way of repair, but only if you want it to hold more than a couple of decades.
I'm confused, are you suggesting an alternate method, or agreeing with me on installing a nose cap?
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Old 10-09-2015, 03:51 PM   #15
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All I'm saying is that your repair will probably last longer than you will probably own the bus. My preference would be to remove the rusted metal, and then use a fiberglass/epoxy backing patch, and use bondo to match the contour.

But it is your bus, and the mantra is "do it your way".
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Old 10-10-2015, 11:44 AM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
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Posts: 21
Year: 2000
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Chassis: Express 3500
Engine: 6.5TD
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Originally Posted by bus-bro View Post
All I'm saying is that your repair will probably last longer than you will probably own the bus. My preference would be to remove the rusted metal, and then use a fiberglass/epoxy backing patch, and use bondo to match the contour.
I had considered this approach, but it would be a lot of work to get behind the panel inside (its all riveted in at that section) plus I'm not all that great at body work. I definitely want to cut out the rusty **** and seal it well since I live in the salt belt, and I am preparing to paint the whole roof with bus-kote so its not much extra work to rivet in a cheap strip of metal and seal it up.

Thanks for the clarification!
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Old 10-10-2015, 12:46 PM   #17
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Personally...If I couldn't weld...I think I would probably do as you described ...

cut out the bad part then thoroughly seal and rivet a formed patch over & under the edge. I would use at least 16 gauge, maybe even 14.
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Old 10-10-2015, 01:39 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Corbeil
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Engine: 6.5TD
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Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Personally...If I couldn't weld...I think I would probably do as you described ...

cut out the bad part then thoroughly seal and rivet a formed patch over & under the edge. I would use at least 16 gauge, maybe even 14.
Thats basically my dilemma. I dont own a welder, nor am I proficient enough to do a clean patch in that tight area, while standing on a ladder. I can buy a strip long enough to do the whole nose, all of which is starting to show signs of water intrusion/rust.

-Cut out everything out that is rusted badly
-Treat the whole area with Ospho
-Treat and install new steel across the whole lip with seam sealer along the -inside and run a bead of seam sealer all around it
-Primer and paint the outside when I go to paint the upper portion with bus-kote in the coming weeks
-Never worry about rust there again.

If I ever take down the front panel on the inside, I will treat the inside area with rust inhibitor, but that likely wont be until next year when I redo the floor, insulation and interior. I hate doing repairs halfway, but for now it will get me on the road where I need to be.
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Old 10-10-2015, 02:51 PM   #19
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Year: 1946
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Once the cancer has been cut out, use a garden sprayer to get as much Ospho or whatever rust treatment you use on the inside of the "brow". Then...figure out where the heck all that water has been entering and seal it up. You should be good for another 30 years.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:40 PM   #20
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Join Date: May 2007
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Posts: 665
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 3208 na boat anchor
Rated Cap: 2
Yeah Tango, the water is probably coming inside from up above and sitting there making rust. I had a small leak, and didn't think about it all that much. But when I went up to prep and paint the roof I found a small hole where they pulled something off, maybe an exterior speaker. Probably the lesson there is to get up on the roof and look around after you get your bus.
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