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Old 05-14-2019, 09:47 PM   #51
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Posts: 157
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Progress! The front "landing" was removed, and the floor was prepped, Ospho-ed, and the first coat of primer is on! If all goes well, I may get the second coat on Thursday, and the subfloor over the weekend. Time and availability will tell...

Chris
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:53 PM   #52
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Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
Looking great!!! Isn't it a good feeling when you get down to the bare floor and get a coating on getting rid of the rust... Seems like it took me a long time to get to that point, but when I did, it felt great!! Building a good foundation for your rolling house!!
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:57 PM   #53
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Yes, definitely! It's been a LONG time coming!

The one thing I noticed is that there's more rust and tiny holes than I thought on the passenger side of the bus. I'm planning to just take either a sheet from the ceiling and rivet to the floor to seal it up, or take one of the lower side panels and do the same. The lower side panels are galvanized, and the ceiling isn't. Does it matter which I use? Is one preferable? FWIW, the next layer is going to be 1" or 1.5" of rigid foam.

Chris
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:03 PM   #54
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Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
What thickness is your floor? My floor was 26 ga and my ceiling panels were 22 ga. The floor was so thin you couldn't walk on it without it buckling...

The galvanized will resist rust longer than just a painted panel. My ceiling panels had a green primer on the top side and it looks like the same green coating used on my body panels. That coating resists rust pretty good too. I found this out when I removed one of the stiffener runs on the outside of the body and no rust on the inside of it. Maybe someone will chime in about which they prefer. If the galvanized coating is good, I'd say it would resist rust longer. Either way, use what you got, and seal it up good. If water gets in there, it'll hold it between the two panels and rust it out... Eventually. Just my opinion..
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:28 AM   #55
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Thanks for the insights. Yes my floor is the really flimsy galvanized sheet, just like yours. The ceiling panels had that green primer as well, just like yours. I've not had time to remove the side panels yet, and may not in my lack of much free time, so I may just use the ceiling panels. I took a quick look at it this morning before work, and there isn't as much swiss cheese as I thought I saw before painting, so that's good. I plan to goop on the seam sealer in all the tiny holes and patch over them so there shouldn't be any way for water to get in (the swiss cheese parts are relatively small and I should be able to fill them with just a few smaller patches). The next step is installing plastic plugs in all the chair rail holes, with a little seam sealer on each one to make sure there's no opportunity for water. I'll finally seal the edges and the seam between the two floor panels, and I suspect I'll be good to go for foam!
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Old 05-16-2019, 09:17 PM   #56
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It was another productive evening for the time I had. The rear panels inside were finally removed, the interlock for the deadbolt in the rear was removed, and the floor received its second coat of primer. Outside, I replaced a missing sway bar bushing, and removed all the vinyl lettering on the rear of the bus with a heat gun and scraper. From the back, I'm no longer a school bus!

With any luck, I'll be picking up subflooring materials on Saturday morning. If the weather is nice, I may remove more vinyl lettering tomorrow evening, as well. I'm trying to remove as much school bus evidence (other than the yellow for now) to attract less attention, but I realize until it's painted, it only goes so far...

Chris
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:31 AM   #57
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Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
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Its getting there!
Quote:
Originally Posted by farok View Post
It was another productive evening for the time I had. The rear panels inside were finally removed, the interlock for the deadbolt in the rear was removed, and the floor received its second coat of primer. Outside, I replaced a missing sway bar bushing, and removed all the vinyl lettering on the rear of the bus with a heat gun and scraper. From the back, I'm no longer a school bus!

With any luck, I'll be picking up subflooring materials on Saturday morning. If the weather is nice, I may remove more vinyl lettering tomorrow evening, as well. I'm trying to remove as much school bus evidence (other than the yellow for now) to attract less attention, but I realize until it's painted, it only goes so far...

Chris
Did you confirm it'll still start, after disabling the interlock..?
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:22 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960 View Post
Did you confirm it'll still start, after disabling the interlock..?
Thankfully, yes! It turns out I just needed to jump one side of the switch to the other and eliminate the switch and related ground wire.

The reverse light/door open circuit on the other hand has eluded me and I've decided to keep it in. The buzzer portion of the circuit was eliminated though.

Chris
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:05 AM   #59
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Good lad!
Quote:
Originally Posted by farok View Post
Thankfully, yes! It turns out I just needed to jump one side of the switch to the other and eliminate the switch and related ground wire.

The reverse light/door open circuit on the other hand has eluded me and I've decided to keep it in. The buzzer portion of the circuit was eliminated though.

Chris
You doubtless know it makes life ever so much less stressful to confirm functionality, on a circuit-by-circuit basic.
The machete method of re-wiring is only good if you're one of those people who enjoy whiling away a day unsnarling a Gordian Knot of tangled twine...
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:07 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haz.matt.1960 View Post
You doubtless know it makes life ever so much less stressful to confirm functionality, on a circuit-by-circuit basic.
The machete method of re-wiring is only good if you're one of those people who enjoy whiling away a day unsnarling a Gordian Knot of tangled twine...
Hahaha Yes I plan to leave the wiring in place and just disconnect what isn't needed. There's at least one necessary wire in each harness, it seems...

Chris
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