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Old 01-29-2018, 03:55 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
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Floor plan for medium/short bus

Hey guys,

still haven't decided on what size of a bus to get, but I narrowed it down to a five or six window school bus. Still not sure if cutaway or full size, but that's for later to decide.
For now, I know that a four window bus is too small, since we wanna fit both a kitchen and shower.

So here's what I did. I measured things at home and thought about how much to downsize it for a bus. Bed, shower, stove, sink etc. Then took the measures I found in another thread here (2,5ft for each window without the entrance/driver's area) and started sketching. Super rough and half-assed. Things like the wheel arches not considered. I'll probably build cabinets/bed/couch/whatever around those.

For now, I'm thankful for every feedback I get, especially from people who have experiences in similar sized busses.

(No fancy software, it's just photoshop, because I wanted to be able to move things around without erasing and re-drawing on paper)

And I know it'll be so much easier once I've actually taken a meter stick with me to a bus dealer. Not gonna happen for now. I'm still in Germany, moving to California soon and start building.

Thanks!
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File Type: jpg 6 window floor plan.jpg (101.3 KB, 70 views)
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Old 01-29-2018, 03:58 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHieronimus View Post
Hey guys,

still haven't decided on what size of a bus to get, but I narrowed it down to a five or six window school bus. Still not sure if cutaway or full size, but that's for later to decide.
For now, I know that a four window bus is too small, since we wanna fit both a kitchen and shower.

So here's what I did. I measured things at home and thought about how much to downsize it for a bus. Bed, shower, stove, sink etc. Then took the measures I found in another thread here (2,5ft for each window without the entrance/driver's area) and started sketching. Super rough and half-assed. Things like the wheel arches not considered. I'll probably build cabinets/bed/couch/whatever around those.

For now, I'm thankful for every feedback I get, especially from people who have experiences in similar sized busses.

(No fancy software, it's just photoshop, because I wanted to be able to move things around without erasing and re-drawing on paper)

And I know it'll be so much easier once I've actually taken a meter stick with me to a bus dealer. Not gonna happen for now. I'm still in Germany, moving to California soon and start building.

Thanks!
Looks good...you're thinking about what's needed

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Old 01-29-2018, 07:02 PM   #3
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It is simpler to add they grey and black water to the same tank but the solids going into that tank are going to effect the amount of water that the tank will hold.
Side note I meant to add in a recent thread/post is that regardless of what tank we are discussing the tank itself regardless of what is contained needs to have a vent so that it can accept what we are putting in it and can breath when we are draining whatever is in in the tank itself.
The tank has to breath or you could?
Example.
End up with a 50 gallon tank that will only hold 30?
Because it has NO way to release the air that is in it or worst case scenario of your toilet or sink's bubbling all the time? Either it takes your tanks hours to drain or you have a drain line sucking air and your tanks start failing/collapsing cause they can't breath.
Just food for thought and I have experience and the tanks I salvaged off of an old Winnebago didn't have it but on a larger scale I have seen 500-gal plastic tanks and 5000-gal steel tanks implode or explode because they weren't vented properly.
Long story short the top of your tanks need to be vented so the tank can inhale and exhale.
Many speedy options but an a check valve stood straight up with a vent cap will do the same thing as a vaccum breaker that cost more.
I have cheaper options but require more physical work.
I don't want to install any replaceable parts where I can't walk up and put my hands on them. Access doors are fine if I build/size them to fit my hands and wrenches to undo what I have done and cuss myself for lack of room.
Happy with that cause it's me verses me instead of what I deal with at work.
For a schoolie Your decisions only hurt you.
Others opinions/decisions hurt sometimes but it doesn't define you are your aspect of your intentions?
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
It is simpler to add they grey and black water to the same tank but the solids going into that tank are going to effect the amount of water that the tank will hold.
Side note I meant to add in a recent thread/post is that regardless of what tank we are discussing the tank itself regardless of what is contained needs to have a vent so that it can accept what we are putting in it and can breath when we are draining whatever is in in the tank itself.
The tank has to breath or you could?
Example.
End up with a 50 gallon tank that will only hold 30?
Because it has NO way to release the air that is in it or worst case scenario of your toilet or sink's bubbling all the time? Either it takes your tanks hours to drain or you have a drain line sucking air and your tanks start failing/collapsing cause they can't breath.
Just food for thought and I have experience and the tanks I salvaged off of an old Winnebago didn't have it but on a larger scale I have seen 500-gal plastic tanks and 5000-gal steel tanks implode or explode because they weren't vented properly.
Long story short the top of your tanks need to be vented so the tank can inhale and exhale.
Many speedy options but an a check valve stood straight up with a vent cap will do the same thing as a vaccum breaker that cost more.
I have cheaper options but require more physical work.
I don't want to install any replaceable parts where I can't walk up and put my hands on them. Access doors are fine if I build/size them to fit my hands and wrenches to undo what I have done and cuss myself for lack of room.
Happy with that cause it's me verses me instead of what I deal with at work.
For a schoolie Your decisions only hurt you.
Others opinions/decisions hurt sometimes but it doesn't define you are your aspect of your intentions?
Yep...when the pump works but the vent fails...yep need vents

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Old 01-29-2018, 07:29 PM   #5
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Typically, RV tanks don't have vents, except for the fresh water tank.

Waste from grey water goes down a 1 1/2" tube that has plenty of room for the displaced air to exit at the same time. It may "glug" occasionally, but sinks and showers empty pretty quickly.

Black water drops vertically from the toilet straight into the tank through about a 4" hole. No vent needed there. Indeed, if you do vent it you have to go way above the roof-line to avoid unpleasant smells.

Emptying the tanks ... No issue with the grey. It might suck the water from the traps, but that gets quickly replaced. For the black tank you can crack the toilet before opening the valve to empty it.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:09 PM   #6
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Would it not be easier to plan a dedicated vent into your build?
One single vent to atmosphere or two if needEd for your design.
A STUDOR or Island vent will work for a little.
I can guarantee you want to have access to replace them.
It might be 10- years from now depending on you choice of your plumbing or it could be a week after you hit the road and or at a campground ?
I will only give an opinion
Please accept it as that?
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Old 01-29-2018, 09:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
Would it not be easier to plan a dedicated vent into your build?
One single vent to atmosphere or two if needEd for your design.
A STUDOR or Island vent will work for a little.
I can guarantee you want to have access to replace them.
It might be 10- years from now depending on you choice of your plumbing or it could be a week after you hit the road and or at a campground ?
I will only give an opinion
Please accept it as that?
To clarify my post...as long as there's a vent in the system there will be issues...it's almost impossible not to leave out vents...even if you're not purposefully putting them in...as mentioned, if you have a trap on a sink it will work as a vent since the water( in the trap) will offer less resistance than the tank...and black tanks are generally gravity emptied...fresh water tanks will need a vent...for air to escape when it's being filled

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Old 01-29-2018, 10:41 PM   #8
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Your shower is likely going to be right over a wheel well and the passenger seat location may be a bit awkward. Wheel wells and drains are the major roadblocks in bus floor plan design. We avoided having to install a black tank by using a porta-potti and setting it right on the wheel well.

The floor measurements of our 6 window shuttle bus and our final floor plan (I didn't install a sink at the shower). Our passenger seal doubles as a dinette seat.
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File Type: jpg 10 Floor measurements 2707.jpg (120.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg 20FloorPlan.jpg (29.9 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg 232-3 IMG_5649.jpg (76.2 KB, 20 views)
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:50 AM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Thank you everyone!
It's going to be a composting toilet, so no black water tank. That kind you for the comments in venting tanks, actually never thought of that, will add valves.

Yes I am sure I will have to move around because of wheel wells, but I can always switch sided of the kitchen isle and shower.

Super helpful here!
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Old 01-30-2018, 01:51 AM   #10
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Oh and the passenger seat. We just know that we wanna install one. Where have other skoolies put it? Next to driver? Next to door?
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