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Old 03-10-2017, 09:31 AM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Turtle Top
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3
A/c done for now.

At this point, none of the things on my list are big ticket items. Transmission and a/c were the things I was truely concerned about.

Next, replace tail lights, then replacing the brow window and seal. Then what I think will be the last thing for awhile, replacing the passenger door windows.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:38 AM   #22
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
did you actually find a leak or was the system just at zero pressure when you got it?

dont forget to fix that condensor fan... that could cause you in hot weather to blow a pop-off valve which would result in zero pressure depending on the type of pop-off..
-Christopher
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Old 03-12-2017, 02:08 PM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Turtle Top
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3
I did not find a leak. The system had a small amount of pressure in it when I started working on it. I recovered a few ounces of freon before I pulled a vacuum on it.

I also added oil and refrigerant dye to the system. After charging it I let it run for a little while and checked with a UV light.

One last question, you said it has to be warm for the system to come on. Can you explain that a little bit? If its not warm enough to come on, will the little red light come on until the thermostat says it's warm enough for the a/c to kick in/on?

So, on to the next project. I need to replace the 'brow' window and seal.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:22 PM   #24
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The red light is the low pressure switch, if it is extremely cold out it can trip that light and still have good charge in the system. If it's just too cold for the a/c to run then the indoor fans come on but the compressor stays off and the red led stays dark too..
when you charged it up did you punch it in by weight ? Or was the compressor running when you charged it?
Christopher
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:39 PM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Location: Texas
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I charged it by weight. Thanks for the help. Again, great information!
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Old 04-12-2017, 12:00 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Location: Texas
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Replaced the overhead window and the doors! Looks great and no more water leaks!
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Old 05-25-2017, 11:45 PM   #27
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Year: 1997
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After a little more work.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:03 PM   #28
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Location: New Carlisle, Ohio
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Fisher Body
Chassis: GM "B" Platform
Engine: 350 TBI Chevrolet
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Nice work, looks ready to travel!
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Closest I have to a Bus would be my '92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Station Wagon 1 of 4,347 built.
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:17 PM   #29
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southern Indiana for now.
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: Terra Transit, New Paris, IN
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 5.5 L V8
Hey there FrqntFlyr.

Looking for advice on seat removal.
I just started removing everything in order to give a deep cleaning and replace the wall paneling. Unfortunately, I ran into a problem with the brackets that are riveted in with huck rivets. I can't seem to get the darned things out. Wondering if you encountered the same things and what you did to remove them.
Any help would be appreciated!
FiFi
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Old 06-30-2017, 11:31 PM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2017
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Posts: 44
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Turtle Top
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3
My seats were all bolted in. The only rivets i encountered were holding the track to the bus.

Ill double check tomorrow. My wife, who wasn't thrilled about getting the bus at first, was quick to offer it up for as transportation for 14 kids to go to camp last week. She will be back tomorrow and I will look and post a few pictures. I removed the 'custom' interior and installed all of the original seats for her to load up the kids.

Sorry.
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