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Old 02-27-2017, 11:39 AM   #51
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 60
Year: 2003
Chassis: Ford E350 with Girardin body
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
I will spend some time this week working on the design / layout of the bus and can post my sketches here for you guys to see and input if so inclined

It is becoming more important because when I insulate, it would be nice to know which windows I could possible remove or cover based on the layout.

I hope to post some pictures today of the progress since the last update. This weekend that just passed we managed to pull out all (except the driver's) ceiling panels! That was a PITA and 'getting mad' at the metal really helps...it required a lot of brute force. My air chisel sucked for the ceiling ones, so I used a hammer and crowbar mostly. Cutting the rivets a bit with an angle grinder to weaken them, then prying them off. I also tried drilling out centers but I broke so many bits and gave up on that method.

Future things on my mind are starting to source supplies for the electrical and water systems. AGM batteries likely, pure sine inverter, MPPT, Fuse Box, Outlets, light switches, something to add to side of bus to plug in to 'shore power' to charge batteries [maybe similar for 'shore water' if available would be nice to use, and this could be used to fill up the fresh/filtered water tank], PEX tubing for in-floor radiant heat, water pump, water heater, gray water tank, sink [possibly Japanese style vertical bathtub?], toilet seat + DIY toilet stuff, LED lights, and so much more
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Old 03-07-2017, 11:19 PM   #52
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 60
Year: 2003
Chassis: Ford E350 with Girardin body
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating
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Old 03-08-2017, 10:17 PM   #53
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 975
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 65 pax
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Originally Posted by iProgramStuff View Post
Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating


Looking good! Thanks for the update photos.
Sandi


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 03-09-2017, 01:20 AM   #54
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 1,668
Quote:
Originally Posted by iProgramStuff View Post
Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating
I am curious as to why you can't legally drive it. Towing it somewhere is going to cost the stars and the moon. If you can't drive it you should get someone else to drive it so you don't have to pay the tow bill.
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:27 PM   #55
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 60
Year: 2003
Chassis: Ford E350 with Girardin body
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
I can't legally drive it because it has no insurance. I can't get insurance atm because my intended use is a motorhome, and it is not titled as a motorhome. The alternative is insuring it as a commercial vehicle for personal use at about $4800/yr.

It is at the mechanic's now (and was towed, I didn't want to take the risk driving it) being safetied. Once it is safetied, I should be able to retitle it and then once it's retitled I can get an appraisal. Once it is appraised, I should have an easier time getting the insurance policy.
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Old 03-16-2017, 04:11 PM   #56
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,109
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Originally Posted by iProgramStuff View Post
The alternative is insuring it as a commercial vehicle for personal use at about $4800/yr.
Huh! My commercial policy with progressive cost $400 per year. Granted it's just liability, but that's all they offer.
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Old 03-18-2017, 04:48 PM   #57
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 60
Year: 2003
Chassis: Ford E350 with Girardin body
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
I just got some bad news that I wanted to share. Haven't talked to the mechanic or anyone else yet (including Google).

Basically, got the bus towed to a mechanic on Monday (March 13th) for a safety. He comes back to me today with a $1600 invoice not including tax AND tells me that the bus cannot be safetied. WHAT?! He says the exhaust manifold has a hole in it and needs welding, and that my floor repairs were not up to spec. He said the manifold would cost more than the bus to replace. So quite possibly my only option is to find someone to fix this via some welding.

In his email, he said:
'The attached report shows required safety repairs. The total on the report doesn’t add the parts or taxes. The repairs done to the floor do not comply with the National Safety Standards which state any floor repair must be structurally sound. In other words, it needs to be as strong as original. Same or heavier gauge of steel welded & sealed.
The other big concern is the r/s exhaust manifold leaks. Someone has already tried to weld up a hole in the manifold, there is other holes and leaks. Replacement would cost much more that the bus is worth & we will not weld the manifold here. So unless you arrange someone to repair the exhaust leaks, we cannot continue.'

The larger components in the invoice:
REPLACE DRAGLINK, R/S TIE ROD END, SET TOE-IN & REPLACE
SWAY BAR BUSHINGS $451.50
DS80784 DRAG LINK $237.99
ES3202R RT/OTR TIE ROD $136.50

Plus $200 flat safety fee +$50/tire (I have 6).

Hopefully just a small hurdle in the grand scheme of things!
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:47 AM   #58
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 60
Year: 2003
Chassis: Ford E350 with Girardin body
Engine: 7.3L Diesel
The gasket manifold work should be getting done this Friday! I hope to be posting some good news soon the number one variable is whether or not the bolts break. If they don't, the replacement is much easier. If they do....well, then it will be a pain in the rear
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:19 AM   #59
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,553
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
whenever I take exhaust manifold bolts loose i tend to use heat or impact if you can either use an impact gun or tap on the wrench wit ha couple pound hammer..

Heat is a little risky if you have aluminum heads.. if your heads are iron the likelihood of bolt breakage is a bit less.. at least from my experience.. patience is a must if using heat...

ive not use heat and impact.. ive always felt that the heated metal would be weak enough that impact might break it.. others who have removed pesky exhaust bolts can chime in.. its a bit of an art... ive had pretty good success at not busting them over the years..

-Christopher
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