Alright Friends! Happy holidays and I hope we're ready for some updates.
First off: I got drunk about a month ago (nothing unusual) and decided to take out the last original schoolbus back window featured here. I giggled about it, cheered my bus and went to bed.
I woke up the next day cautious of my actions with a little bit of regret. Drilled a handful of holes before work, slapped some butyl putty down, cleco'd everything into place, and rivetted it with pop rivets the next day and welded it to the frame.
These are pretty ugly welds, but I think it will be fine.
After developing a small amount of confidence to my work, I have celebrated by changing my signature and promoting a website which I recently put together. I try to give credit where due, but if you feel you deserve some credit let me know and I'll adjust accordingly.
I hope you all don't judge me, but I will be copying a lot of my posts from the website onto this board, these posts may reflect a little more confidence than I have in the past. Mostly to pretend I have a backbone on my webpage I guess.
Without Further adieu
Most recent picture
Hereís a picture I snapped this morning.
How did we get here?
This is where our journey begins. Last we left off we were around here. What we see is an inch of insulation over a layer of reflectix (see shiny bubble wrap on floor) and a layer of another radiant barrier I got off amazon (I will not link for I am not certain how necessary these were).
My favorite insulation test I have been using is the touch test. I touch a surface, if it is cold it lacks insulation, if it is not then I am pleased that it is insulated. I may further insulate anyway. The white steel studs between the insulation panels were FRIGID. This is something that needed to be addressed.
Insulating the steel stud/frame
Aaronsb of the skoolie.net forum used foam tape as well as foil tape over it and conducted some condensation tests to conclude that the foam tape with the foil tape reduces condensation. I put some foam tape over these steel studs and my touch test was enough to conclude that it is effective. The cost for this foam tape is not anything as cost effective as 1/2 inch polyiso. But it is convenient I suppose and I did it with all of the exposed steel I could find.
One Layer Steel Stud Taped
A few Steel studs taped
Foil Taping over the foam 1/2
Foil taping over the foam 2/2
Reducing Thermal Bridging/stopping airflow
The touch test makes it very clear that thermal bridging is a very real thing. I know I canít get rid of it all, but I want to reduce as much as possible. My method for this was running long 4 foot lengths of reflectix across the bus and fastening them to the frame with furring strips. These furring strips serve a few purposes.
1. Provide an interior skeleton in which things can be fastened to, and reducing thermal bridging by providing a thermal break from the exterior bus frame, and the interior framing.
2. Fasten the reflectix to the walls.
3. Structurally reinforce the bus (slightly)
A note on Furring strips, The 99 1◊3 cent furring strips at home depot didnít seem like something I wanted to rely on for all the interior framing, there are also a lot of online reviews complaining about their fragile nature. I also wanted something with a comparable thickness to 1″ polyiso insulation which I want to put between the furring strips with a snug fit. I ended up getting a good deal on 5/4 cedar decking board from a hardware store. The cost was a little under $3 for an 8 foot length. Iíll take it. It looks and smells great! No regrets.
The furring strips are about 3.5 inches thick and I wanted the centers of the wood to be spaced about 16″ apart so I cut some 12.5″ long 2◊2ís to use for spacing the strips apart evenly and mostly level. (I forgot to document this) These are all fastened to the wall with 1.5″ #8 Self taping metal steel screws. I countersunk each of the holes so all of these screws are sunk into the wood. In theory I am going to cover the screws with foam to reduce condensation/thermal bridging, in theory.
Much like the walls, the ceiling is insulated with radiant barrier, reflectix (another radiant barrier), and 2x 1/2″ polyiso insulation (easier to bend and 10% more expensive than 1″ polyiso). One thing I really liked about using many layers of thin insulation is that the pieces often overlap each other in a manner which compliment the imperfections of each others cuts.
Radiant Barrier 1. Down
2. Reflectix over radiant barrier
Two radiant barriers with no airgap? A lot of people are probably shaking their heads in disapproval at my waste of resources and time. Yes I am guilty of all of the above, however the radiant barrier was leftover from my flooring and taking up space in my garage, and the reflectix passed the touch test well. Overkill also provides some garage cleaning benefits.
Ceiling Insulation in!
Yes I know, the bus is a mess
Foaming the ceiling frames.
You may notice in the picture above that the foam and frame sticks out more than the 1″ of insulation in some areas. This drove my crazy so I decided to fill in this space another 1/2″ of insulation. This was much harder to fit in because I used scraps and also didnít have much framing to pressure fit (push/punch) the insulation between.
Furring Strips for the Ceiling
The first 3 strips were absolutely terrible to put in. These 3 strips here took me about 90 minutes to put in. I was absolutely furious by the end of this night.
The next day I was blessed to have a helper buddy Scott help me out here. Here you see him Taping the foam with foil tape. Note: I tried foiling tape both: underneath the last layer of insulation for some of the frame foam and over the last layer of insulation. I never figured out which one I liked more, I donít think it really mattered too much.
Bless this hero. Get this man a beer!
We used 2◊4ís and 2◊6ís approximately 6í6″. Extremely useful for pretty much anything that went over our heads (literally).
The day after this Scott helped me work until 1:30 am, what a guy right?
Kregg Jigg Shoutout
A shoutout to Kregg Pocket Jigg R3 I got this on sale for $40 with clamp, the kregg clamp really isnít necessary but that specific clamp does fit satisfyingly well with the clamp. This jigg makes these pocket holes which create these beautiful joints. I connected most of my furring strips to one another with these connections.
Here are some pictures of our wonderful checkpoint we reached.