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Old 09-17-2016, 01:23 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
Posts: 64
Year: 2005
Coachwork: BLUE BIRD
Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:23 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
Posts: 64
Year: 2005
Coachwork: BLUE BIRD
Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:30 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
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Year: 2005
Coachwork: BLUE BIRD
Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
Got a good bit done today, the generator is kicking my butt because i'm not that great with electrical and not quite sure which wires (that went to the welder) I can cut and which ones I need to keep, have a buddy coming to help me sometime, once I get that sorted out i'm gonna work on getting it mounted on the frame and get the wires ran. still unsure of what im going to do on the inside yet, mainly concerned on getting the generator mounted and an insulated box built to help with the noise then go from there. until the generator gets sorted out im gonna work on the hitch install this week
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:04 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
Posts: 64
Year: 2005
Coachwork: BLUE BIRD
Engine: FORD 6.0l
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:04 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
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Coachwork: BLUE BIRD
Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
any ideas on how to get this bottom section out a little easier?
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:37 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 31
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Ford E-450
It looks like we've got the exact same year, make and model buses. I'll be following your build for sure. My build thread

I didn't remove below the "chair rail" on mine, it seems to be pretty integral to the body of the bus. I know some people say it shouldn't be removed for strength concerns, but I know some have cut it out anyways.
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Old 09-17-2016, 08:49 PM   #17
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,077
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
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Yes...definitely look it over real good before grabbing a Sawzall. On may buses, the chair rail is indeed a structural element that ties the ribs and floor together but there are any number of variations on this theme.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:46 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: CHARLETON SC
Posts: 64
Year: 2005
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Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
Yea after looking a little further into it I think I'm gonna leave it alone, just gonna re attach where I've already taken it off. Really not looking forward to tackling the roof rivets tommorow. So far found the best way is a chisel on a air hammer. If you can keep it straight it'll go straight through the rivets. Hopefully the roof comes out relatively easy for me. Can't wait to get back onto getting the generator mounted and finishing the wiring so I can start building
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:44 AM   #19
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,077
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
BTW...the area below the chair rail makes an excellent place to route electrical.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:01 AM   #20
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
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Engine: FORD 6.0l
Rated Cap: 29
so any ideas on insulation? what works the best? is it worth all the time getting all the rivets out on the ceiling? or just leave the ceiling alone?
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