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01-07-2019, 09:51 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peakbus
Good question. I still have room to slip another layer in between the two covers.
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Temporarily secure the left overs and see if it makes a diff.
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01-08-2019, 06:27 AM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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super progress!! glad i found this ..dbmat is what you used? im in the process of insulating and noise reducing the firewall area of my DEV bus.. I was about ready to put dynamat down on the firewall area but I think im going to go with this instead!!
what did you fasten it to the underside of your doghouse with? my factory doghouse insulation is still there but after 28 years is looking a bit crappy so thinking i'll do what you did and replace it as well..
-Christopher
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01-08-2019, 07:39 AM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Thank you for sharing the dB Info! I have been trying to find that stuff for the last couple of freakin' years. I think it is the same material I added to my old BBAA 20+ years ago. Made a really big difference in the gawd awful noise coming off my old DD6V53. I did put on two layers inside the doghouse but anyone who has ever been around that motor will understand why.
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01-08-2019, 10:23 AM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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I think what I have is dBmat WM2 Barrier with Foam Decoupler. The website is a little hard to follow with many products. 1800nonoise.com I called and got good info from Cliff. There are other companies out there too. Theses guys were very helpful though.
The material has peel and stick adhesive but I also ordered their anchors- basically nails with a square metal plate attached to the head. You glue the plate to the panel then push the insulation onto the anchors and hold with a cap. Sorry, I didn't get a photo. Installation was pretty easy. Cut to fit, test fit, peel, stick. Do your test fitting before installing the anchors as they would get in the way.
Again, can't say the bus is quiet, but noticeably better.
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01-08-2019, 11:05 AM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Where do you buy the mat and anchors? I found the 1800noise site but couldn’t find any info about dealers and product ID to purchase. The material you are using sounds exactly what I want to use in my DEV bus, and maybe the red one too although I dynamited it a couple years ago and it’s quiet, that bus has no doghouse since it’s a V8.
Christopher
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01-08-2019, 11:10 AM
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#26
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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I found it on the 1800nonoise site- or one of their other sites. It was confusing what to use so I called and Cliff made recommendations and gave me pricing. I ordered over the phone as there was no clear path on the site to what he recommended. I just explained what my situation he said this was the stuff.
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01-08-2019, 11:52 AM
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#27
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
Posts: 1,956
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
Where do you buy the mat and anchors? I found the 1800noise site but couldn’t find any info about dealers and product ID to purchase. The material you are using sounds exactly what I want to use in my DEV bus, and maybe the red one too although I dynamited it a couple years ago and it’s quiet, that bus has no doghouse since it’s a V8.
Christopher
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Those fasteners are very common in industrial duct work insulating. They use a gun which burns a hole and then welds the piece in place. Then the insulation goes on and is capped. So simple and effective.
I think if you contact some tin-knockers in your area they could find you some. Adhesive is better than nothing for these applications but a welded stud is the cat's meow.
John
__________________
Question everything!
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01-08-2019, 11:59 AM
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#28
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Agreed on a stud but I don’t want ugly holes in my plastic doghouse..
christopher
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01-08-2019, 08:33 PM
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#29
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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Their glue on anchors were $1.05 each. Stuck on with a dab of construction adhesive. The mat was around $7/sq.ft. + shipping.
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01-12-2019, 07:06 PM
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#30
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 70
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[QUOTE=peakbus;
Remembering a sailboat I had with an insulated engine compartment, I searched more online and found DB Engineering sells dBmat Barrier Composite. 1-1/4" thick with 2 layers of foam, a layer of heavy vinyl barrier, and a mylar heat reflective layer. This noise control is the real deal. I ordered a 4x10' roll and installed a layer on the inside of the dog house, on the firewall, on the floor above the wheel well liners. I also lined my new doghouse cover. The material is peel & stick and I also used mechanical fasteners being concerned about engine heat loosening the adhesive.
Just curious about the thermal qualities of dBmat. You installed it on the inside of the doghouse where it will have to withstand a lot of heat. Is there a thermal rating on this material?
Thanks / Ron
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01-13-2019, 08:05 PM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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[QUOTE=capnron;304972][QUOTE=peakbus;
Just curious about the thermal qualities of dBmat. You installed it on the inside of the doghouse where it will have to withstand a lot of heat. Is there a thermal rating on this material?
Thanks / Ron[/QUOTE]
I don't know what the thermal qualities are. I was concerned and asked the rep who confirmed it was designed for these type of applications. The material has a silver mylar face to reflect heat. Some areas of my engine compartment already had a similar material from the factory, so I'm hoping it will hold up. I did a 400 mile trip this fall and didn't catch fire.
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01-13-2019, 08:09 PM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,753
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I still haven’t gotten the right place to buy it and it’s fasteners, this is going to linextheinside firewall of my bus since I have the heaters out ... I need a roll like you got I think. Or maybe half.. but likely 4x10 would do it for me
Hristipher
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01-13-2019, 08:25 PM
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#33
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 70
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[QUOTE=peakbus;305175]
Quote:
Originally Posted by capnron
I did a 400 mile trip this fall and didn't catch fire.
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LOL, right on peakbus. Any time there are no flames, it's a good trip. Thanks for the update.
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02-15-2019, 11:59 PM
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#34
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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One step forward...
Well I was just getting back in the swing of bus work as work had slowed after the holidays, then- I broke my ankle skiing.
We had gotten most of the ceiling panels and insulation down- Yay for Thomas using screws instead of rivets.
After sitting on the couch for a couple weeks reading Skoolie.net and...reading Skoolie.net I couldn't take it anymore. I've been, very slowly, getting the last of the ceiling out along with the front and rear panels over the windows. Got the A/C units lowered. I'll have to wait til the snow melts to drive in and get the A/Cs evacuated. I've still got AZ highway tires with no traction. And an Aircast on my right ankle preventing any sort of accelerator pedal finesse.
I'm glad I pulled the ceiling as I can now track down a few leaks I have.
Question time: In getting ready for spray foam, how do people protect wiring to marker lights and flashers? I though to build boxes around the flashers with rigid foam but it seems like I don't want to encapsulate wires in the foam, or is that no big deal.? I can pull the main runs out of the way but specifically where the wires run through the wall to markers, etc.. Maybe run though the plastic wire loom stuff?
And what's with that goofy little air vent Thomas puts in the roof a couple panels back from the front? Not sure what to do with that. Maybe I'll run solar panel wires through it.
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03-01-2019, 10:09 PM
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#35
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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February progress
So progress in February was painfully slow with a broken ankle and sub 20 degree days. The wall panels are now down and I pulled up the rest of the floor in the driver's area and entryway.
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03-01-2019, 10:16 PM
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#36
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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Wow. After stripping the floor out, I found a gap 3/4" wide the width of the bus behind the dog house. A piece of rubber gasket marginally filled it. I assume this is "wiggle room" from when they mate the coach to the chassis. No wonder it's drafty when driving.
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03-01-2019, 10:29 PM
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#37
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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Happy Anniversary!
One year ago today I bought Mesa at Auction. After some fun trips, breakdowns, delays and tear-out, I'm finally going to start creating.
I plan to connect the entry doors to make one solid door. Today I removed the doors and bought steel to make fill the void left by the rubber seals. I think I'll leave the front door hinge in place. I debated squaring it up as the doors slope inward at the top but there must be a reason. I assume it's so they swing closed easily?
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03-01-2019, 10:38 PM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I was just looking at mine today and seeing how easy that will be to accomplish, then just remove the connecting bar from the rear door.
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03-01-2019, 10:47 PM
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#39
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sandpoint, ID
Posts: 533
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Girardin Microbird MB-IV
Chassis: Ford E450
Engine: 7.3 Diesel
Rated Cap: 25
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Yeah, it was super easy to pull them. I hadn't planned to do this project yet but the connector bar was in the way of my insulation plan.
Any hints on pulling the window glass out of the doors?? Looks like it's held in by sort of S shaped rubber with the glass in one side of the gasket and the other side wrapping over a metal strip in the door. Just don't want to break the glass.
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03-01-2019, 10:50 PM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peakbus
Yeah, it was super easy to pull them. I hadn't planned to do this project yet but the connector bar was in the way of my insulation plan.
Any hints on pulling the window glass out of the doors?? Looks like it's held in by sort of S shaped rubber with the glass in one side of the gasket and the other side wrapping over a metal strip in the door. Just don't want to break the glass.
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No advice there, I haven't gotten that far on mine.
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