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01-07-2013, 06:21 PM
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#21
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 39
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Chevy
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Hey Don, If the "breathable" leather you are talking about is "perforated" leather, I could see using it for it's durability. I work with leather everyday, and it's just my opinion but a good vinyl "naugahyde" would be my choice for even better durability. The worst part of leather and vinyl, is that you will sweat on it or be real cold until the heater kicks in. Therefore, I would suggest having a sheepskin slipcover made no matter what kind of material you go with. As far as the sofa goes, I would use a nice fabric on it but thats just my opinion again. Leather tends to wear on corners and scuff/scratch easily. We use it in aircraft mainly because rich people think they need it, and the fact that it passes burn certification much better. Your mounting idea for your camry seat sounds like an excellent idea. I actually scored a crew seat from an old navy trainer aircraft that I plan on using. It will probably be fabric with vinyl trim and a sheepskin cover plus a 4 or 5 point harness just for looks.
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01-07-2013, 08:12 PM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Hey Lars --- Thanks for the "Pro" guidance. I know squat about this area of bus building, good to heart from an expert. I will definitely look into that route through local shops.
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01-07-2013, 10:57 PM
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#23
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Hey Lars, likt Tango I'm trying to figure out a way to get two seats in that tiny little cabin. I'm planning on having the passenger seat slide fore and aft at a 45 degree angle to create space to get from the door to the main bus body. I'l thought I'd use regular seat rails but they don't have enough travel (I need 15 " and can only get 5" with a seat rail). Therefore I have been trying to design my own roller system--any ideas? Jack
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01-08-2013, 07:35 AM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Andrews,Indiana
Posts: 2,436
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: AARE
Engine: 3116 Cat 250hp
Rated Cap: Just the two of us.
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Jack,
Quote:
trying to design my own roller system--any ideas?
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I've been toying with some track for something else, but thinking on the lines of how sliding barn door track works, I think something
could be easily done with some u-channel on it's side and a small ball bearing carriage. Stops could be a third rail in the middle with
a spring loaded plunger of some sort.
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01-08-2013, 08:44 PM
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#25
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Thanks Lars, that is a good idea. I'll bet the barn hardware is similar to that used on roll up garage doors and I just happen to have 10' of that--Hmm. Jack
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01-10-2013, 06:53 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 39
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Chevy
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
Thanks Lars, that is a good idea. I'll bet the barn hardware is similar to that used on roll up garage doors and I just happen to have 10' of that--Hmm. Jack
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Although a good idea...I can't take credit for this one made buy somewhereintheusa. This idea with the plunger is similar to aircraft track. I'll have to post a pic later. But after looking at some more of your build I kind of got an idea off of your drawer glides used on your genne. If you could recess a pair of them into your floor at the 45 degree angle you are thinking, and then weld or attach in some other way your existing track at 22.5 degrees (or whatever it takes to go back straight with the bus) then you would still have the 5" fwd and aft. The only thing would be securing the bottom glide in a locked position. You could probably just pin it when in use, and unpin and slide it out of the way when you want to move. Just in the little that I have looked at your build, I'm sure you will come up with a great way to overcome this. BTW Jack, I'll get that pic and meas. this weekend of the bus bumper.
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01-10-2013, 06:56 PM
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#27
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 39
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Chevy
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Hey Lars --- Thanks for the "Pro" guidance. I know squat about this area of bus building, good to heart from an expert. I will definitely look into that route through local shops.
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Glad I could help Tango even though I didn't offer much. I'd sure love to do some trading with you, but that distance thing makes it a little tough. But I will offer all the free advise you can stand.
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10-31-2014, 04:05 PM
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#28
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Re: My 1946 Wayne/Chevy
Hey Lars...you still out there? --- Just checking to see what you might be up to. Would love to see more of that beauty you were working on.
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