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Old 02-03-2015, 03:39 PM   #21
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,572
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Another thing to keep in mind is where your electrical, water pipes and drains will go. Try to make your connections where you can get at them later for repair. For instance, my shower stall is a few inches from the back and side walls to make a chase way and all my connections are accessible in one way or another. The one connection you build in will, sure as hell, be the one that fails.
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:39 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
Wow thanks for the pictures , that's what i had in mind for the grey water. The blue barrel sound to me like a good idea, cheap and easy to find!

So basically the rod go through the bus floor ? And when you want to empty the tank, you need to go under the bus?

Also, did you jacked your bus to do all those plumbing or you just ''slide'' under? That's could be problematic for me if i can't go easily under it.


I also keep in mind the advice for the emplacement of the plumbing and wiring. It's a long-time project, I plan to buy the bus next year so now i'm now more in the design and configuration of the space.
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:50 PM   #23
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,572
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Plenty of room under these buses to work. Not like the huge ground clearance that the school buses have, but no need to jack it up for most projects.

The Eldorado Aerotech buses have a plywood floor so it was easy to drill through and bolt the tank supports above the floor. When I insulated the floor the insulation boards and the 3/4" plywood flooring cover the rod ends so I cut access holes in the plywood so I can get at the nuts if I ever need to.
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:30 PM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
That will simplify the work under the bus !

I will pursue my drafting and planning, especially for the plumbing and electricity and will probably be back soon with many questions


Wait! I already got a question! Is it possible to run only with solar power + engine to recharge the battery or i must have a generator? I don't plan to have TV on any electronic device. The main electric equipments would be the pump, water heater, a small fridge, Led light, 1-2 power outlet and stove hood. The stove and the heater would probably run on propane.
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:52 PM   #25
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,572
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
To Figure your power requirements you'll need to decide what appliances and lights you'll be using and for how long each day, then install deep cycle batteries to power them for the day/weekend/whatever.

You get max battery life if you don't discharge more than 50% so in general you install twice as much battery capacity as you'll need between chargeings.

Air conditioning requires shore power or a generator, it won't run off batteries. If you're boondocking for long periods a genny is nice for recharging.

In short, 150 watt solar may be all you need or it may be totally inadequate, it depends on how power hungry you are.

Led light - .5 amp DC
RV furnace fan - 4 amps DC
Roof vent fan - 2 amps DC
Water pump - 4 amps DC
Water heater - .5 amp DC
Propane alarm - 5 amps DC per day

Refrig - could be run on AC, DC or propane
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:08 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
I started to list all the electric item i will probably install and i realize that i don't have a lot of appliance and that my electricity needs will not be too big ( i read on many RV blogs the ''normal'' electricity need for a small Rv and its was pretty high )

So basically what i understand is that i need my average total of amp per day ( or amp hours not sure...) for each appliances then double the total to know how many battery i need?

With the total of amp and the total of battery amp, will I be able to determinate which solar panel i need?

And should recharging the battery with the alternator be considerated as a good recharging way? I don'T know how efficient can be an alternator ...!
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #27
Bus Crazy
 
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,572
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
We're set up to be able to charge the house batteries from the alternator if need be, but I prefer to wait and plug in at home to charge them through the power panel three stage battery charger. The Progressive Dynamics battery charger won't boil your batteries dry over time like some other chargers can.

Here's the power panel we installed:

http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html

Ours bus is set up like your plan with minimal power requirements. Most outings We'll draw down the batteries by only ~10% so I usually wait until we get home to charge the house batteries. Your 150 watt solar panels would give you 10 to 12 amps of charging and will certainly extend your battery power with no need to plug in at home.
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Old 02-08-2015, 12:43 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 16
Which program are you using to design ?
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:08 PM   #29
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
Sketchup on Mac but I had drawn the floor plan in 2d on AutoCAD before.

The final rendering was done on Kerkythea.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:08 PM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 20
On another subject, i start to plan the plumbing and since i live in a place with temperature under zero ( C not F!) 4-5 months by year, I start to think that i will probably have issue with the pipes that go under the bus, so outside...!

I don't plan to use the skoolie in the winter but i'll store it outside during the winter so it can be an issue.

Is there are way to insulate them? Or some special pipe to put?
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