Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-20-2017, 12:03 PM   #11
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
which cameras are you using? im in the market to buy some for my busses..
I'm not using one right now. They move so fast that the last one I used would be obsolete now.

If I were looking though, I'd be looking for an HD camera with a fixed external mount, and a 7 to 10" screen. Some of the ones dedicated to vehicles overlay lines that represent the space the vehicle will move into while reversing.
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2017, 07:22 AM   #12
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 214
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466e
So, as far as your build so far, was this only to pass inspection.. meaning temporary, or is this how you want it?
adic27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2017, 11:29 AM   #13
Bus Geek
Robin97396's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
I've got a backup camera with the overlay lines and I still run into stuff. There's a major depth perception issue when looking at the screen.
Nobody's Business
Robin97396 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2017, 01:32 PM   #14
Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 721
Year: 1990
Coachwork: integral
Chassis: Crown Supercoach II (rear engine)
Engine: Detroit 6V92TAC, DDEC 2, Jake brake, Allison HT740
Rated Cap: 37,400 lbs GVWR
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
I've got a backup camera with the overlay lines and I still run into stuff. There's a major depth perception issue when looking at the screen.
I use the Rear View Safety 770613 system. It has a 130-degree camera, but with it mounted just under the middle of the three rear marker lights I can see the entire width of the rear bumper (useful to check for exhaust smoke!) and about 10 feet behind. Top quality, and reasonably priced at Costco. Well worth it.

Iceni John is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2017, 09:08 PM   #15
Bus Geek
Tango's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,147
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
good info...thank you!
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2017, 10:28 PM   #16
Bus Geek
Robin97396's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
I have the camera, but use the mirrors by choice. My system will handle a front camera too, but I'm gonna continue using the windshield.

I'm still waiting for autodrive software.
Nobody's Business
Robin97396 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2018, 08:47 PM   #17
Mountain Gnome's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 180
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummings ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
E-hatch upgrade.

So I finally started the real buildout of my bus this last week. Starting from roof down...since it has leaks.

Part one of the roof is painting it. Step one to paint it I need to seal the leaks first, and replace the roof emergency hatch with something better (note the solar-dry-rotting plastic that crumbles at the edges, and will scratch-off with a fingernail). Following a lead in another post here, I looked into "yacht hatches." A bit pricey, to say the least, especially one sized big enough for a 2'2' hole. So fabrication time it is!

Got a 25' piece of 1/8" thick structural aluminum 2"2" angle beam. That will make the inner flange, and the door. Need to go back and get a 1/4" thick 2"2" T-beam for the top (outer) flange. I think I will use the original hardware that raises and lowers the door, allowing it to open like a car sunroof, if I can find a 5/8" inner-diameter tube to replace the part of the hinge that was plastic. The hole itself will be covered with 3/8" thick clear Lexan; I should be able to stand or even jump on it when I'm done. I really like the skylight for visibility inside. But to keep out the hot sunlight, I'll make a "pillow" covered in that reflective bubble-wrap stuff. My last pickup truck had a glass sunroof: hot as hell in the Hawai'ian sun! I cut a piece of fiberboard I pulled from the interior roof of an old van to the size of the sunroof, covered it on one side with thick aluminum foil (facing up) and the other (facing down inward) with that aftermarket automotive carpet made from recycled plastic bottles. Trimmed the edges with automotive door edge protective trim, and it looked "manufactured". The window cover for my bus will be similar, but thicker and with a tight flush-fit to keep warm in the winter nights.

I was just going to bolt, screw, or rivet the aluminum pieces in place, but they do not line up by themselves naturally, so I called a local welder who says he does aluminum; I will have all 4 corners of both flanges and the door welded, hoping he knows how to do it without warping the framework. This will make it much stronger and vandal/theft proof.

I had to open the hole in the roof a bit, make it bigger, more centered, and more square to the bus' frame. Looks like someone handed a 13-year-old millennial the E-hatch and said "install this," and he eyeballed the hole to cut, using you-tube as a how-to guide. As for me, I hate cutting sheet metal. I tried using my very old jigsaw (probably older than me - the only plastic in this tool is the wire insulation) but the blades went dull in 3"-4", and it kept jamming (forcing me to take it all apart), and finally blew the circuit breaker and the GFCI receptacle as I flipped the switch off. I had to cut the jigsaw blades' length in half anyway, or it hit the top sheet of metal. So I went to a circular cutoff blade on a drill. Messy stuff blowing all over my bus interior, on my arms, etc. Seems like fiberglass, and makes you itch afterwards.

Any hints at an easy way to cut into the thick sheetmetal used for bus panels? I have tin-snips that I use for thinner stuff...I just hate the cut-off wheels...but they seem to work best.

Waiting on the rain to pass now, but it is showing me where the leaks are...looks like it is coming down the AC lines that go from the exterior roof, to the interior ceiling mounted units, then down through the floor to the motor and battery. Maybe a window or two also? I should know tomorrow as the Hurricane passes over...but then half my AC unit on the roof is covered with a tarp right now.

Aloha to y'all for now.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1006181435[1].jpg (198.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 1006181435a[1].jpg (163.7 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 1006181436[1].jpg (119.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 1006181436a[1].jpg (114.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 1010181946[1].jpg (172.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 1006181616[1].jpg (225.6 KB, 0 views)
Mountain Gnome is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:10 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.