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Old 05-11-2019, 10:12 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by Frochevy View Post

I probably went Overkill but I used 3/4" polyiso insulation on the floor, then taped the seams with the HVAC tape then I'm putting 3/4" plywood on top of that for my sub floor.
No such thing as 'overkill' on your bus.....just one more thing you'll never have to worry about.

That had to be tedious work, but it turned out very nicely. And those latches look slick.
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:15 PM   #102
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
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Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
Thanks for all of the good compliments. Please let me know if I'm missing anything! Hopefully I'll be getting some more things done at the end of this week! I'm taking a few days off to get some work done. I have camping weekends planned that are coming up way too quickly!!
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:42 PM   #103
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Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
Youíre lucky to get a Colins body. Thatís a much better roofline for uniform headroom and mounting solar. The
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:55 AM   #104
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
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Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
Progress: Electrical

I took Thursday and Friday off work to get some work done on the bus. I got a few things done and made some good progress. I finished the sub floor up and I now have a complete solid floor to build on. I removed about a mile (give or take a few thousand feet lol) of 12v wiring...

I moved the bus after I finished up the floor. It has been parked in the same spot for a few months while I did all of the floor work and propane locker. Check out the mess I was left with!

My dad came up Friday to help me with the electrical. He also picked me up a used Dometic 15k btu AC unit from a 2008 camper with a fairly new shroud, inside control box, screen, etc for $225 that I found on Craigslist!
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:58 AM   #105
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Wamego Ks
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Year: 2007
Chassis: Collins
Engine: 6.6L LMM Duramax
We started with preparing the box section above the driver seat to install all of the electrical components. We installed a wood floor and wall to help with the install. It turns out the width of the door is just about right for the 12v and 120v electrical panel.

First, we transformed my 50amp 220v electrical panel into a 30amp 120v panel. Then we installed it into the bottom of the opening. We ran wiring for the power convertor right in the box section and installed an outlet to plug it into. We ran some 12-2 for the AC, we ran some under the floor to the passenger side door outlets later on.

Then we installed the 12v panel and installed the power convertor and ran the 6 ga wire from it to the panel as well as the battery disconnect switch. (Note: all of these parts were salvaged from a newer Montana camper) I used a head board bracket from our purple mattress base that my wife and I didn't use (since our bed doesn't have a head board). I thought I'd point this out since the bracket is nicely painted and is longer than needed. Lol

I now need to install the outdoor plug as well as mount a battery and run my heavy gauge wire to it. After that, I'll be ready for the fridge install, AC install.... And the list goes on. However very excited to get my electrical system lined out so I can move forward with framing and running everything.

I did take the bus over and put it in my in-laws shop. With a little measuring I did find out I will not be able to install the AC and get the bus out of the shop. It'll be too tall!! So I'll get the opening ready, change out the folding doors and remove some windows while in the shop for the next few weeks... More to come!!
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Old 05-18-2019, 10:24 AM   #106
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Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Looking real nice!!
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:01 PM   #107
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 33
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Chevrolet Mid Bus
Chassis: G 31
Engine: V8
Rated Cap: 23
Did you use a saw or a grinder for the bolt heads? I did 3 today with a saw and a friend said a grinder would go faster.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:27 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by farok View Post
Looking real nice!!
Thanks!!! It's going super slow.... But I gotta keep making a little progress at a time...
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:30 PM   #109
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Did you use a saw or a grinder for the bolt heads? I did 3 today with a saw and a friend said a grinder would go faster.
Are you talking about the seat bolt heads??

If so, I used my 4.5" angle grinder with cut off wheels. Then started using my 7" grinder with grinding wheel so I had a longer reach. My sawzall blade was at an angle and it didn't work the best.

NOTE: Be very careful if using cut off wheel. Keep them straight and don't put a side load on them. They can crack/break and shatter.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:34 PM   #110
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Year: 1998
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Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
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How'd (where'd) you route AC input into & above the cockpit?
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