My Short bus build... - Page 5

cadillackid · 04-04-2019, 11:11 AM

so did that guy swap a duramax and an allison into his van at the same time?

im wondering if a body lift might solve the floor issue with an allison...

the guys swapping DT466's into F250 trucks are doing body lifts to help clear floors / firewall without as much cutting..

dazdconfsd · 04-04-2019, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

so did that guy swap a duramax and an allison into his van at the same time?

im wondering if a body lift might solve the floor issue with an allison...

the guys swapping DT466's into F250 trucks are doing body lifts to help clear floors / firewall without as much cutting..

He sorta built a mutt, but yeah he put a Duramax and Allison (and truck ECU/BCM/TCM) into a 2006 chassis with a 2000 gas powered body on it. A body lift mostly seems to have worked for him, but I'm unsure how to arrange that with a bus body/cutaway combo. As it is, the floor is already a bit higher in the affected area for mine, so it may be a minor issue to work around.

He shared the pin out comparisons and such, but I suspect that stuff would need to be confirmed with a 2003+ chassis to make sure it's correct, but at least it gives some guidance. Also some cutaways with wheelchair lifts have an even higher floor in the area he cut so those would be no problem at all.

There is another incomplete project thread here with some pictures showing the fitment issues

https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum...t=74588&page=4

The rear of the trans appears to be the biggest conflict

cadillackid · 04-04-2019, 12:58 PM

I was looking at tuning files for the van and truck duramaxx, it looks like the Allison bits are in the van ECM software files. I have the ability to tune the ECM and TCM with efi for those. Though going with a 06+ truck harness ECM and TCM (and bcm) gives 6 speed capabilities. I don’t know enough about duramaxx to effectively read the calibrations but to me it looks like the vans and medium duty bring in the torque a bit quicker. Perhaps 4500/5500 might be where the computers should come from. In that 08/09 timeframe. A40/A50 TCM. The even numbers like that are the ones that talk GMLAN as opposed to J1939
From what I understand they aren’t interchangeable. Someone gave me an A50 and I couldn’t flash a school bus calibration to it but it took a LBZ cal (the trans part)

dazdconfsd · 04-04-2019, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I was looking at tuning files for the van and truck duramaxx, it looks like the Allison bits are in the van ECM software files. I have the ability to tune the ECM and TCM with efi for those. Though going with a 06+ truck harness ECM and TCM (and bcm) gives 6 speed capabilities. I don’t know enough about duramaxx to effectively read the calibrations but to me it looks like the vans and medium duty bring in the torque a bit quicker. Perhaps 4500/5500 might be where the computers should come from. In that 08/09 timeframe. A40/A50 TCM. The even numbers like that are the ones that talk GMLAN as opposed to J1939
From what I understand they aren’t interchangeable. Someone gave me an A50 and I couldn’t flash a school bus calibration to it but it took a LBZ cal (the trans part)

Are you suggesting the van ecm could be updated to talk to the allison tcm? And have all functions that way?

cadillackid · 04-04-2019, 04:15 PM

it sure seems that way.. im thinkingthe van ECM may be really similar to the 4500/5500 Medium duty truck which came with an allison..

of course the wiring is different.. but from what i can tell the GMLAN ports are there and the calibrations in EFIlive sure appear to read in separately.. obviously its somewhat uncharted territory seeing as how I dont have a full duramaxx setup

Frochevy · 04-05-2019, 01:47 PM

A 4wd Duramax bus would be sweet! But I'll stick to 2wd dually for now... I already have too much work ahead of me without thinking swaps! Lol

Frochevy · 04-05-2019, 01:55 PM

Took the day off to work on the bus. Got a few more things done with the propane locker. I ended up putting an expanded metal floor in it to let propane out in the event of a leak but also to keep critters out. I used ceiling panels to use for the sides. I spot welded them on then used SEM Seam Sealer then primered. I'll weld the box in place next... And waiting on my access door to arrive so I can cut the outer skin.

Frochevy · 04-05-2019, 05:10 PM

Propane locker is in. Still waiting on my access door to arrive in the mail. I made a cut centered and down 6" from the top before I welded the box in. This should allow me to center my door, mark and cut from the outside. I hope...

I removed the rust on the rear passenger side where the heater was and welded in a new piece. Also laid down some POR15 to convert the rest of the remaining surface rust.

Frochevy · 04-05-2019, 05:14 PM

I also forgot to mention I didn't care for the huge gaps in the floor supports. So I welded a few more supports in. The 1x3" rectangle tubing worked the best, but I ran out of it so spaced a couple 1" sq tubing out and welded in the farthest front section shown...

Oh and my little helper doing a PPE check for me...

Frochevy · 04-08-2019, 09:41 PM

My door arrived in the mail today! I'm impressed with the construction and how sturdy it seems. I think it will work out good for me. I should be able to get one bottle out at a time without moving the other one. It has a thing latch on one side and keyed lock on the other. I ordered from Amazon:

Leisure CW RV Compartment Access Storage Baggage Door 24'' x 18'' with Thumb Lock for RVs Motorhomes Fifth Wheels Trailers Etc. (24'' X 18'')

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYDSYC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rvaRCbQXCWR13

Hopefully I'll be able to get it installed later this week or weekend!

farok · 04-09-2019, 07:51 AM

Looking good! I may look into one of those access doors as well...

Chris

Frochevy · 04-09-2019, 09:30 PM

I had an extra 45 min this evening so I was able to Mark out my door and get the opening cut.

I marked the top of where the door will sit. I ground the heads of the rivets from the stiffener pieces. Then I cut the section out and removed the top stiffener. In also completely removed the bottom one as it will only be partially affected. (I plan to trim it and reinstall later for extra support at the bottom.)

Now I am able to slide the door in flush to the body and Mark the entire opening. Don't forget to stop at each corner since there is a large radius! I used a cut off wheel on a 4" grinder to cut through the body panels. Then I used a sawzall to cut through the inside wall supports that the cut off wheel wouldn't reach.

After I got the piece removed, I trimmed it the corner radius to my Mark then slid the door in to Mark the extra from the stiffener to be removed for the flange to sit flush with the body. Just be very careful and go by feel and you can cut through this without cutting the body panel much behind it.

I haven't actually installed the door yet. It's just slid in place for now.

And now frustrated because all of my pictures show upside down.. ugh I'll try to fix before posting them.

Frochevy · 04-09-2019, 09:46 PM

Pictures oriented the correct way are worth a thousand words...

So these aren't worth much. Lol I've tried three times to get them right. I even edited and rotated the pictures upside down then saved and uploaded and it still came in upside down. I give up... Sorry any ideas?

I just really want to show this off! I'm excited!!

Frochevy · 04-17-2019, 11:35 AM

I finished up my propane locker and door. I used landscaping expanding foam sealant to close off the wall area before putting door in. I used some stainless steel self tappers to attach the door frame to the bus body. Along with a little seam sealer.

I also totally changed my mind about my floor. I'm going to remove all of the 26 ga "tin foil" floor and replace it all with new 18 ga sheet metal. I was going to just replace the rusty spots with panels from the ceiling but decided this is what the whole bus is built on and I want it to last a long time!

I had all my sheet metal sheared to correct size other than where I will have to cut out the opening for the propane locker. I also picked up some rectangle tubing and flat strap to mount my black and grey water tanks. I ordered those tanks and fresh water tank from rec pro.

Frochevy · 05-11-2019, 08:25 PM

I've had some more time to get some work done on my bus. These pictures show the start of my black and grey water tank mounts. I used 1" x 3" rectangle tubing for the top mounts and welded them in place before laying the new sheet metal floor in. The front and middle of the bus is 18 ga and the rear is 16 ga. (I ordered 18 ga but one piece got cut out of 16ga) this is much better than the original 26 ga floor!! My harbor freight electric metal shears worked great on this sheet metal.

Frochevy · 05-11-2019, 08:32 PM

I treated the top of the crossmembers with POR15 before laying the sheet metal. I decided to go with PL Premium construction adhesive to "glue" the sheet metal down. Followed that with more seam sealer on all of the seams. Then used some bare metal primer to coat the bare sheet metal after a wipedown with the mineral spirits. I thinned the primer with the mineral spirits and sprayed with my cheap harbor freight hvlp gun. I got my tanks in from rec pro as well!

Frochevy · 05-11-2019, 08:41 PM

When I ordered my black grey and freshwater tank from rec pro, they had a 5 pack of stainless steel baggage door latches for $13 so I decided to get some. They look much better than the plastic ones in my opinion!

I probably went Overkill but I used 3/4" polyiso insulation on the floor, then taped the seams with the HVAC tape then I'm putting 3/4" plywood on top of that for my sub floor. (I know... Head room..) so far I have the two main sheets down on the floor and screwed down. I still need to cut the sides out and get everything pieced in and screwed down.

The original floor had an access hole to reach the top of the fuel sending unit. So I re used the original plate but seam sealed it first before screwing it into the new sheet metal floor with self tappers. Then I made a cut out in the insulation and the plywood floor. This will make it much easier in the future in case I (or future owner) need to access that again.

Frochevy · 05-11-2019, 08:45 PM

I also decided to run some wiring under the floor. (Good idea from my dad) before installing the rear piece of plywood.

The 12 v is planned to run my water pump. And the 120v will be used for a plug in most likely on the rear of the bus.

magnakansas · 05-11-2019, 08:51 PM

I like the way you are doing things. Looks well thought out. A bunch of work.

cheers, william

peteg59 · 05-11-2019, 08:59 PM

Nice job!
When you're done with yours, PM me for a plane ticket to NH to start on mine!!!!

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