My Short bus build...

[plfking]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I probably went Overkill but I used 3/4" polyiso insulation on the floor, then taped the seams with the HVAC tape then I'm putting 3/4" plywood on top of that for my sub floor.

No such thing as 'overkill' on your bus.....just one more thing you'll never have to worry about.

That had to be tedious work, but it turned out very nicely. And those latches look slick.

[Frochevy]

Thanks for all of the good compliments. Please let me know if I'm missing anything! Hopefully I'll be getting some more things done at the end of this week! I'm taking a few days off to get some work done. I have camping weekends planned that are coming up way too quickly!!

[Danjo]

You’re lucky to get a Colins body. That’s a much better roofline for uniform headroom and mounting solar. The

[Frochevy]

I took Thursday and Friday off work to get some work done on the bus. I got a few things done and made some good progress. I finished the sub floor up and I now have a complete solid floor to build on. I removed about a mile (give or take a few thousand feet lol) of 12v wiring...

I moved the bus after I finished up the floor. It has been parked in the same spot for a few months while I did all of the floor work and propane locker. Check out the mess I was left with!

My dad came up Friday to help me with the electrical. He also picked me up a used Dometic 15k btu AC unit from a 2008 camper with a fairly new shroud, inside control box, screen, etc for $225 that I found on Craigslist!

[Frochevy]

We started with preparing the box section above the driver seat to install all of the electrical components. We installed a wood floor and wall to help with the install. It turns out the width of the door is just about right for the 12v and 120v electrical panel.

First, we transformed my 50amp 220v electrical panel into a 30amp 120v panel. Then we installed it into the bottom of the opening. We ran wiring for the power convertor right in the box section and installed an outlet to plug it into. We ran some 12-2 for the AC, we ran some under the floor to the passenger side door outlets later on.

Then we installed the 12v panel and installed the power convertor and ran the 6 ga wire from it to the panel as well as the battery disconnect switch. (Note: all of these parts were salvaged from a newer Montana camper) I used a head board bracket from our purple mattress base that my wife and I didn't use (since our bed doesn't have a head board). I thought I'd point this out since the bracket is nicely painted and is longer than needed. Lol

I now need to install the outdoor plug as well as mount a battery and run my heavy gauge wire to it. After that, I'll be ready for the fridge install, AC install.... And the list goes on. However very excited to get my electrical system lined out so I can move forward with framing and running everything.

I did take the bus over and put it in my in-laws shop. With a little measuring I did find out I will not be able to install the AC and get the bus out of the shop. It'll be too tall!! So I'll get the opening ready, change out the folding doors and remove some windows while in the shop for the next few weeks... More to come!!

[farok]

Looking real nice!!

[The bus stops here]

Did you use a saw or a grinder for the bolt heads? I did 3 today with a saw and a friend said a grinder would go faster.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by farok

Looking real nice!!

Thanks!!! It's going super slow.... But I gotta keep making a little progress at a time...

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by The bus stops here

Did you use a saw or a grinder for the bolt heads? I did 3 today with a saw and a friend said a grinder would go faster.

Are you talking about the seat bolt heads??

If so, I used my 4.5" angle grinder with cut off wheels. Then started using my 7" grinder with grinding wheel so I had a longer reach. My sawzall blade was at an angle and it didn't work the best.

NOTE: Be very careful if using cut off wheel. Keep them straight and don't put a side load on them. They can crack/break and shatter.

[HazMatt]

How'd (where'd) you route AC input into & above the cockpit?

[Frochevy]

I have a Norcold 611V 2 way fridge. I did some work to remove the front window behind the driver seat, measured 15 times before cutting hole for the bottom vent. Cut off wheel on my angle grinder and a sawzall to go through the chair rail and tubing.

The longest part was cutting tubing and welding in sheet metal to fill in the window area for the top vent.

Now I need to seal the seams with seam sealer, and primer.

[Frochevy]

Well the bad news is I thought I had a N611V and my upper vent needs to be about ten inches higher... The good news is, I have a N811VFLT which is a larger fridge at 7.5 cu ft and I did some rework today to cut out my upper vent and move it up. Silver linings my wife always says... Lol

I printed out the install Instructions and was going off of that. I didn't have the fridge over where the bus was so it was a big screw up. However, I can cut, weld etc. So I had to just do some more of that... Lol so here are a few pictures after backing up and moving the vent up higher. I also started to prepare the enclosure. I just test fit everything. The ply wood isn't screwed in yet. I will need to install the 120v outlet for the fridge as well as the 12v wiring for it. I am also installing the shore power plug in that same area. So I have a few more things to do before I button it up for good. I also need to figure out how I'm going to install the vent enclosures. They're plastic and I'll be screwing into steel tubing. I'm thinking pilot holes and stainless sheet metal screws. Then will still need to run my propane line.

Oh and check out the flashing I made for the base of the fridge to divert any water out in case any may make it in past the vents.... I used my Harbor Freight sheet metal brake that I bought used about 5-6 yrs ago...

[o1marc]

I needed a brake to make that same piece on mine, but it had to be 74" long.

[The bus stops here]

What is the insulation you are using in this photo on your ceiling?

[Frochevy]

The insulation on the ceiling is the original insulation that was up there under the steel panels. I do plan to add more before I put the ceiling in.

[Doktari]

Thanks for sharing your conversion. Personally I am not putting RV stuff in my bus. I’d have bought a RV if I was going to go that route. But that’s just me. And I may eat my words and use more RV stuff than I imagined when I get to finishing my short bus. But the fridge is all electric and requires no outside venting. Maybe it will suck in the Summer when it pumps the heat inside the bus.

[The bus stops here]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

The insulation on the ceiling is the original insulation that was up there under the steel panels. I do plan to add more before I put the ceiling in.

I am surprised. It looks like it is in good condition. I was going to leave my ceiling intact, but I hadn't considered how hot metal gets in the sun. If you are not putting the metal back what kind of material are you thinking for the ceiling? Thanks, Barbara

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Doktari

Thanks for sharing your conversion. Personally I am not putting RV stuff in my bus. I’d have bought a RV if I was going to go that route. But that’s just me. And I may eat my words and use more RV stuff than I imagined when I get to finishing my short bus. But the fridge is all electric and requires no outside venting. Maybe it will suck in the Summer when it pumps the heat inside the bus.

.

Glad to help! Lol learn from my mistakes..... Honestly I told my wife that if we ever build another bus, I might just go with a residential fridge... Lol it would have been easier.... But I'm a manufacturing engineer so I don't think like that some times!! I need to remember the KISS principal... keep it simple stupid....

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by The bus stops here

I am surprised. It looks like it is in good condition. I was going to leave my ceiling intact, but I hadn't considered how hot metal gets in the sun. If you are not putting the metal back what kind of material are you thinking for the ceiling? Thanks, Barbara

I agree about the metal roof. The heat transfers through the metal. Last summer I had a portable AC 13.5k btu in there and it wouldn't keep up.

I think I'm going to copy some other folks on here. I'm going to put up furring strips on the metal tubing cross pieces. Then add another layer of insulation. Then go with tongue and groove boards screwed into the furring strips.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I needed a brake to make that same piece on mine, but it had to be 74" long.

That would be a nice sized brake to have at home in my garage!!