My Short bus build...

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

That would be a nice sized brake to have at home in my garage!!

Ya, a nice 8' brake would keep me busy. I had to make new corners for the rear of the bus. You think 8' brakes would be hard to find, not so, one in every race shop, yet none of them ever have a roller longer than 4'. I needed a 62" piece rolled.

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Ya, a nice 8' brake would keep me busy. I had to make new corners for the rear of the bus. You think 8' brakes would be hard to find, not so, one in every race shop, yet none of them ever have a roller longer than 4'. I needed a 62" piece rolled.

Just go see your local tin-knocker or siding/eaves trough installer.


John

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Just go see your local tin-knocker or siding/eaves trough installer.


John

Siding brakes don't normally handle the thickness of metal we are working with. AC shop uses thicker metal and may have one. I have located all the large tools I need locally at shops.

[The bus stops here]

thanks for the info

[TheHubbardBus]

Thanks for documenting this all. Really enjoying reading this thread. Nice work!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

Thanks for documenting this all. Really enjoying reading this thread. Nice work!

Thank you!! I'm glad someone is getting some good use out of it! I really enjoy this site! Great info and great people!!

[The bus stops here]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Are you talking about the seat bolt heads??

If so, I used my 4.5" angle grinder with cut off wheels. Then started using my 7" grinder with grinding wheel so I had a longer reach. My sawzall blade was at an angle and it didn't work the best.

NOTE: Be very careful if using cut off wheel. Keep them straight and don't put a side load on them. They can crack/break and shatter.

I learned how to use an angle grinder this week, my new favorite power tool!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by The bus stops here

I learned how to use an angle grinder this week, my new favorite power tool!

They are a great tool as long as you Respect them. Wear the proper PPE and be careful!!

[Frochevy]

I got a few things done Sunday afternoon. I found out that the stainless sheet metal screws I picked up to screw the vent frame in are junk. With pilot holes I still twisted them off. I'm currently looking for other options of a counter sunk self tapping screw for metal...

I ran some wiring for my microwave as well as installed an outlet for the fridge. I also ran the 12v wiring for the fridge and used the same hole to run my heavy wire through that will go to my shore power outlet outside.

I still need to find some other screws and pick up a 3" hole saw for my outlet.

Note: I'm leaving the fridge out and the top and side off of the fridge enclosure until I've finished running all my wiring. It'll be harder to get to after I put the fridge in place for the final time.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I got a few things done Sunday afternoon. I found out that the stainless sheet metal screws I picked up to screw the vent frame in are junk. With pilot holes I still twisted them off. I'm currently looking for other options of a counter sunk self tapping screw for metal...

I ran some wiring for my microwave as well as installed an outlet for the fridge. I also ran the 12v wiring for the fridge and used the same hole to run my heavy wire through that will go to my shore power outlet outside.

I still need to find some other screws and pick up a 3" hole saw for my outlet.

Note: I'm leaving the fridge out and the top and side off of the fridge enclosure until I've finished running all my wiring. It'll be harder to get to after I put the fridge in place for the final time.

if you have a power setter on your drill or impact driver, turn it down enough that it still sets the screw tight but not so tight it snaps the screw - my cordless will snap a 3 1/2" deck screw when turned too high

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

if you have a power setter on your drill or impact driver, turn it down enough that it still sets the screw tight but not so tight it snaps the screw - my cordless will snap a 3 1/2" deck screw when turned too high

Thanks for the tip! I have a Craftsman c3 impact driver and it doesn't have a power setting. I could use my drill with a clutch and not snap them off... Lol but then again... They wouldn't screw all the way in...

[Frochevy]

Well I made a little more progress over the weekend on the bus. I've been running some wiring before I install the fridge for the last time. So I ran some 12/2 for the outlets as well as some.more 12v wiring for the AC and water pump. I ran an HDMI cable to the rear for future tailgating tv plans as well as my cable for the back up camera.

I mounted the back up camera in front of the dome light. This seemed like a natural spot you would look for a rear view mirror. It was kind of a pain to run the wiring but I'm glad I did it. I wanted to leave the plug outside in case I have problems with the camera or need to remove for any reason so that's why the extra length loops around the camera mount. I notched the dome light cover and ran the wire inside the done light area and drilled a hole in the plastic where there was an existing hole in the steel done light mount. This worked great.

I tested the camera and it works great! I haven't mounted the camera. I need to figure out how I'm going to do that. I can't get to the backside of where the camera will mount because of the rear AC on the inside.

I also mounted the vent frames for the AC. I'll update with a pic of the"trailer board" screws that I used for this. They are countersink self tappers for steel and worked great!

I cut a piece of 16ga 31" x 31" sheet metal with a 14" x 14" hole in it. This will get mounted over the escape hatch to prepare for the RV roof ac install AFTER I drive the bus out of the shop!! (I won't be able to get the bus out of the door if I install the AC inside the shop... Lol) I plan to also use some 1" square tubing to brace.

Speaking of bracing... I'm not impressed with the design/rigidity of the roof. I can pull down on the roof line where there escape hatch opening is now and it bows. I'm thinking/wondering if I should reinforce with a small square tubing A Frame of sorts to strengthen where the AC will ride. I don't think it'll hold me and the AC while I install it!!! Any thoughts??? Has anyone ever done this?

[Frochevy]

I took the day off to work on the bus... And watch the kids part of the time... Lol

I installed the 16 ga sheet metal addition to the escape hatch to be ready for the RV AC install. I used 3/16" aluminum closed end rivets. If I did it again, I would go with bigger rivets. I think it'll be fine. I spaced my rivets 3" apart. Before I laid the plate on, I put down the dicor lap sealant that everyone says is amazing. I agree. It's self leveling and looks like it will work well! I welded a couple of 1" square tubes on the inside of the bus.

Then I started working on the camper door install. I decided to put my house battery under the step. I built a battery box cut out with 18 ga sheet metal. My cheap brake works well for that. However the 16 ga at 30" is too much. So I dialed it back at about 14" (2- 7" sides and it still didn't like it... The outer piece that is the vertical under the door is 16 ga and is very stout. I spot welded everything in then sealed the seams. I only put a couple screws in the door flange. I need to get some plumbers putty to seal up the door...

[Frochevy]

More pictures....

And one note about the roof piece... I used a larger bit on the back side as a counter sunk to de burr from drilling the holes from the top side....

I plan to put a 3/4" ply wood floor on the step. Then vinyl floor over that. I still need to cut holes and vent the battery box...

[plfking]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I took the day off to work on the bus...

I've done that a time or three......gotta keep work and pleasure balanced.

The door and battery box are looking good. Are you going to add a step, or is the top of the battery box the 'new' bottom step?

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by plfking

I've done that a time or three......gotta keep work and pleasure balanced.

The door and battery box are looking good. Are you going to add a step, or is the top of the battery box the 'new' bottom step?

Well that is a great question... I was going to put a fold out step underneath until I made a battery box. I'll need a step that sits on the ground or a fold down step of some sort. It's a tall step and don't want people falling out... Any suggestions? Do they make a fold down step instead of a fold out step?

[plfking]

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Do they make a fold down step instead of a fold out step?

Looking at your body of work, I think you're more than capable of making either type......pretty easy to make one that folded up against the fascia right below your door.

Or might be easier to have it fold back and store inside the bus, but the door would have to remain open all the time the step was deployed.

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by plfking

Looking at your body of work, I think you're more than capable of making either type......pretty easy to make one that folded up against the fascia right below your door.

Or might be easier to have it fold back and store inside the bus, but the door would have to remain open all the time the step was deployed.

Yea. Not scared of a little metal work. I finally had to come to the realization that if I'm going to build something like a battery box under a layer of flooring that no one will ever see, it doesn't have to be perfect... Ive been getting more done since I've tried to dial back my perfection ... Not that I can do it perfect, but I want to do it right... Lol

I can probably make a folding step... But at this point I'm ready to start enjoying the bus instead of working on it all the time!! Lol

[HenrysCat]

Hey! Have fun with your bus! I’m about to start mine in a few days as well! I’m on my way to pick it up now. It’s been converted already but I’m going to redo the build out. I am very happy that the seats have already been removed! Good luck!

[Frochevy]

Originally Posted by HenrysCat

Hey! Have fun with your bus! I’m about to start mine in a few days as well! I’m on my way to pick it up now. It’s been converted already but I’m going to redo the build out. I am very happy that the seats have already been removed! Good luck!

Good luck!!! The seat removal process in my bus was terrible!!!! I'm glad those are already removed for you!!