My Short bus build... - Page 8

Frochevy · 06-15-2019, 11:12 PM

Well little by little more progress... The count down for an Oklahoma trip is nearing... The week of June 24 I'm supposed to drive the bus around 4.5-5 hrs for a family camping trip. Obviously it won't be done.... (Not sure if it ever will be)... But my main goals are for it to run good, be dry, have a bed for us and the RV air conditioner to be functional!!

So I got the roof finished up primer, paint and clear coat.

We Painted around the door frame area and used some rustoleum bed liner spray for in the battery box. We cut a piece 3/4" plywood for the battery cover/step.

The door is permanently installed now. I used rope caulk for sealing around the flange. I put a 1x3" under the threshold area to raise the door up so the lid/step would be the same level. By the time I put the flooring down, it should be a smooth transition from step to threshold.

We also got the furring strips put on the roof ribs to prepare for the ceiling! My wife actually got to help with that! Our 3 month old slept while the other two played.. I used 1x3 furring strips. Started in the middle to bow the board and screwed about every 10-12". The screws are a longer version of what I used for my fridge vents. Wafer head self tapping screws. Also seen them called trailer board screws.

Frochevy · 06-15-2019, 11:14 PM

Sorry for the side ways photos... I don't know why it does that it how to fix it!!!

Any how a few more detail photos of anyone wants to see up close...

Frochevy · 06-18-2019, 07:32 PM

Well we made a decision on the ceiling. I was looking at pre-engineered planking from Menards on sale. When I was in the store I was impressed with how many of the boards had scuffs and imperfections. So I bought 10' Tongue and Groove carsiding. We did a test with white washed look. I used 2 parts paint and one part water. We didn't like how it looked when we wiped it off. Sooooo we just slapped the thinned down paint on in a sloppy manner and here is how it turned out. I think it'll look nice!

What do you all think?

Frochevy · 06-19-2019, 10:46 PM

This evening's progress:

I screwed in some more furring strips around the AC opening. I also added the shock to the outside of the camper door. Then I ran some 12v wires for the over head LED lights and my thermostat wiring. I bought some little wiring labels from Menards. I put a # on each 12 v wire (power and ground) at the distribution panel and on the other end where the wires will connect to the lights. ( This should help me (or future owner) tracking down wiring issues down the road) the # corresponds to what Spade/fuse that wiring goes to which can be matched to the legend that tells what each fuse is for...

My father in law put up the ceiling insulation. We used 1/2" polyiso nailed to the furring strips. Next the tongue and groove carsiding will be going up for the finished ceiling!!

HazMatt · 06-20-2019, 03:41 AM

Always good to ID the runs as you did to minimize future troubleshooting. An indelible wiring diagram in the distribution panel would be a good thing, too.
So you overlaid the factory fiberglass with insulation sheets? Interesting, don't believe I've seen anyone else take that approach before. I'll be looking forward to hearing how well it works.
The barn door's already closed, and with the insulation and planks covering it may be a non-issue, but I would've topped off those countersunk furring strip screws with putty to further mitigate the thermal bridge.
How much overhead clearance are you losing, overall? 1.5" or so?

Frochevy · 06-20-2019, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Always good to ID the runs as you did to minimize future troubleshooting. An indelible wiring diagram in the distribution panel would be a good thing, too.
So you overlaid the factory fiberglass with insulation sheets? Interesting, don't believe I've seen anyone else take that approach before. I'll be looking forward to hearing how well it works.
The barn door's already closed, and with the insulation and planks covering it may be a non-issue, but I would've topped off those countersunk furring strip screws with putty to further mitigate the thermal bridge.
How much overhead clearance are you losing, overall? 1.5" or so?

I left the factory insulation in place. Then I added furring strips to the tubing where the insulation is flush to. So this leaves me about a half inch air gap between the fiberglass insulation and polyiso.

I didn't think about the steel to steel contact on the steel screws on the furring strips... Hmm good idea! Wish I would have thought of that before I put the polyiso up.

Yes losing 1.5". My father in law is taller than me and while putting insulation up he still had 2" plus between his hat and insulation. So should have plenty of head room after T and G and 1/4" worth of flooring....

Do you think I need to keep the roof vent open up front? I was going to cover it up on the roof, but wondering if I should leave on roof and cut the polyiso and wood boards out where it was to keep the vent working?

Sleddgracer · 06-20-2019, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy

I left the factory insulation in place. Then I added furring strips to the tubing where the insulation is flush to. So this leaves me about a half inch air gap between the fiberglass insulation and polyiso.

I didn't think about the steel to steel contact on the steel screws on the furring strips... Hmm good idea! Wish I would have thought of that before I put the polyiso up.

Yes losing 1.5". My father in law is taller than me and while putting insulation up he still had 2" plus between his hat and insulation. So should have plenty of head room after T and G and 1/4" worth of flooring....

Do you think I need to keep the roof vent open up front? I was going to cover it up on the roof, but wondering if I should leave on roof and cut the polyiso and wood boards out where it was to keep the vent working?

I think you would miss having that vent on a hot sunny summer day

Frochevy · 06-20-2019, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

I think you would miss having that vent on a hot sunny summer day

Fair enough... I'll cut out the circle in the polyiso insulation and open the hole up when I out the boards in. I'll just use the original vent cover that was on the steel ceiling...

HazMatt · 06-20-2019, 08:58 AM

On my Thomas, it appears to be of limited use. The ceiling was removed before I bought it, so no clue what was originally there.
There's an inner skin, less'n a 1/2" air gap with roof, with a round hole inside. Figure I'll eventually remove the louvered cap and skin it over.
Mine's now covered it with 1/2" insulation panels...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Fair enough... I'll cut out the circle in the polyiso insulation and open the hole up when I out the boards in. I'll just use the original vent cover that was on the steel ceiling...

Frochevy · 06-20-2019, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HazMatt

On my Thomas, it appears to be of limited use. The ceiling was removed before I bought it, so no clue what was originally there.
There's an inner skin, less'n a 1/2" air gap with roof, with a round hole inside. Figure I'll eventually remove the louvered cap and skin it over.
Mine's now covered it with 1/2" insulation panels...

The main thing I worry about if I skin over the top and remove the vent is condensation forming in between the roof skin and layers below.... A house attic/roof is usually vented for a reason... Partly to let hot air out I assume.. and partly to let airflow through to prevent condensation???

HazMatt · 06-20-2019, 09:03 AM

Good point.
Once my ceiling is complete, it certainly won't be air tight, and overnight cooling could cause condensation to collect...

Frochevy · 06-22-2019, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Good point.
Once my ceiling is complete, it certainly won't be air tight, and overnight cooling could cause condensation to collect...

Well.. we put my ceiling up today and I totally forgot about that vent until I saw your post again.... Lol oops. I might have to measure and try to cut a hole with a hole saw... Or pop the vent off the top and cut a hole from the top down or don't worry about it.... ? Hmmm...

Frochevy · 06-22-2019, 10:47 PM

Time keeps moving on.... I got a few more things done tho. We had to take a break this afternoon for my son to go try some mutton Busting for the first time... And he won his age group (3-5). So good day all around!

The exhaust is out and new gaskets ordered. I'm looking for some exhaust pipe to remove my dpf...

I ran conduit for my 12v wires to my battery box. Installed vents in the battery box, as well as circuit breaker (plus screwed an extra in place in case I need it in the future... I soldered the appropriate ends on the 6ga wiring... All except for one end I'll change later... Lol

Oh and we got the ceiling put up!!!

Frochevy · 06-24-2019, 12:29 PM

We put up the LED lights on the ceiling in their locations. We also built the bed frame. We used kreg jig and wood glue to make a pretty strong frame. 2x10s for main frame and 2x3 for the supports... The bed is queen size. The frame was large enough I didn't think it would fit through the back door so we built it inside the bus.

Plan is to pull the bus out of the shop tomorrow and bolt the rooftop AC on.

I'm getting 6 new tires mounted/balanced on Wednesday morning. The plan is to pull out and head south Wednesday afternoon. The trip is 4 hrs 15 min. We plan to drive around 3 hrs and stop for supper and to feed the little one, then head the rest of the way down... More to come!!

HazMatt · 06-24-2019, 12:52 PM

Cool!!!
Happy Trails!

plfking · 06-24-2019, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy

Do you think I need to keep the roof vent open up front? I was going to cover it up on the roof, but wondering if I should leave on roof and cut the polyiso and wood boards out where it was to keep the vent working?

FWIW.....I never felt any air-flow through mine, and skinned over it just to eliminate the potential for a later leak.

Hope you have a totally boring and uneventful trip (bus-wise).

Sleddgracer · 06-24-2019, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frochevy

We put up the LED lights on the ceiling in their locations. We also built the bed frame. We used kreg jig and wood glue to make a pretty strong frame. 2x10s for main frame and 2x3 for the supports... The bed is queen size. The frame was large enough I didn't think it would fit through the back door so we built it inside the bus.

Plan is to pull the bus out of the shop tomorrow and bolt the rooftop AC on.

I'm getting 6 new tires mounted/balanced on Wednesday morning. The plan is to pull out and head south Wednesday afternoon. The trip is 4 hrs 15 min. We plan to drive around 3 hrs and stop for supper and to feed the little one, then head the rest of the way down... More to come!!

are your interior LED lights 12V? - I haven't found any suitable other than light strips that are 12V

HazMatt · 06-24-2019, 07:07 PM

I haven't used them yet, but while still in NH, I bought a set of 6 white LED fixtures that were meant to very brightly illuminate a P/U truck's bed.
With 20' of living space, I believe they'll work fine, once I split them into circuits of two or three, and put a switch on 'em.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

are your interior LED lights 12V? - I haven't found any suitable other than light strips that are 12V

Sleddgracer · 06-24-2019, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HazMatt

I haven't used them yet, but while still in NH, I bought a set of 6 white LED fixtures that were meant to very brightly illuminate a P/U truck's bed.
With 20' of living space, I believe they'll work fine, once I split them into circuits of two or three, and put a switch on 'em.

thanks - l'll look into that

Frochevy · 06-24-2019, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

are your interior LED lights 12V? - I haven't found any suitable other than light strips that are 12V

Yes they are 12v led RV /camper lights from Amazon. I got a 5pack for Christmas...

5 Pack Leisure LED RV LED Ceiling Double Dome Light Fixture with ON/OFF Switch Interior Lighting for Car/RV/Trailer/Camper/Boat DC 12V Natural White 4000-4500K 48X2835SMD (Natural White 4000-4500K, 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733RQDXL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I7weDb1MGDYWJ

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