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Old 10-12-2016, 06:10 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Bring your bus, and I'll do em for ya. For free, like the last member I did the de-riveting for.
OR if anyone else in the area needs help with demo or rivets let me know, I'm always down to help out anyone who's friendly.
I already removed the rivets but I just wanted to know how to do it with the air chisel.
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:11 PM   #12
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
The key is you have to use a pointy punch type bit to drive out the mandrels, then you shear off the rivet head with a nice, sharp chisel bit.
The Harbor Freight chisel bits I used were made with a taper on both sides, shaped the same way most knife blades are. I found they worked substantially better for shearing rivet heads if I ground the edge of the bit to have a taper on just one side, like a wood chisel. It had to be re-ground periodically when the edge became too deformed.

What shape do you prefer for shearing rivets? I assume you must re-sharpen or replace the bit in the course of the project.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:49 PM   #13
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
The Harbor Freight chisel bits I used were made with a taper on both sides, shaped the same way most knife blades are. I found they worked substantially better for shearing rivet heads if I ground the edge of the bit to have a taper on just one side, like a wood chisel. It had to be re-ground periodically when the edge became too deformed.

What shape do you prefer for shearing rivets? I assume you must re-sharpen or replace the bit in the course of the project.
I've used one chisel bit to do two buses. I've put a bit of a sharper edge on it but never too sharp. Just a bit sharper than they come.
I use hf stuff a lot, but the expensive bits I bought at the local hardware store have served me very well.
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:29 AM   #14
Almost There
 
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Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
I haven't had a chance to get out to the conversion location to measure the exact size of the rivets, but they are the biggest I have personally seen.

I'll be the first to admit that I don't know all that much about the different types of rivets, but I believe they are blind rivets and definitely made of steel. I know there is a distinction between open and closed, but I don't know what that is in practice or just to look at...

I haven't tried grinding because the bottom rail is deep and not very open because of the lip used to secure bolt heads for the actual seats, so I'd have to cut away pieces of the rail to be able to get any type of angle at all. I could grind the top, but I'm looking for a solution that I can just use on all of them.

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I'll try them out when I get over there next (possibly tonight, though the weather is terrible here today).

Anyone ever try this out?



I stumbled across this and am thinking it may work well on the bottom since I could get the blade straight in and not have to worry about any angles.
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:07 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
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Those rivets that he is taking out in the video are far easier than the steel top ones, you can even take them out with just the chisel.

the problem I see is using the angle grinder overhead to take the celing rivets.
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Old 10-13-2016, 03:10 PM   #16
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Originally Posted by pepepito View Post
Those rivets that he is taking out in the video are far easier than the steel top ones, you can even take them out with just the chisel.

the problem I see is using the angle grinder overhead to take the celing rivets.
The grinder is gonna make a bunch of dust and make it miserable to work.
I'll look for some rivets when I go out to the bus this weekend, and I'll make a vid of how to QUICKLY and easily get rid of those pesky rivets. Mine are the worst case scenario for removal. They're oxidized and they're twice as stubborn as the rivets on that Bluebird I worked on. But they're still a piece of cake if you have the right tools and technique.
Now that I think about it- I still have a panel over the driver seat area and the rear skin is still on. So- Vid to come!
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:25 AM   #17
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 8
Year: 1985
Chassis: Carpenter
Engine: International DT466
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
The grinder is gonna make a bunch of dust and make it miserable to work.
I'll look for some rivets when I go out to the bus this weekend, and I'll make a vid of how to QUICKLY and easily get rid of those pesky rivets. Mine are the worst case scenario for removal. They're oxidized and they're twice as stubborn as the rivets on that Bluebird I worked on. But they're still a piece of cake if you have the right tools and technique.
Now that I think about it- I still have a panel over the driver seat area and the rear skin is still on. So- Vid to come!
I'd love to see a quick video of your process. I'm going to be pulling the roof panels down in the spring and I don't want it to be a huge ordeal if it doesn't have to be. Anxiously awaiting your technique!
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Old 11-23-2016, 06:26 PM   #18
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I'd love to see a quick video of your process. I'm going to be pulling the roof panels down in the spring and I don't want it to be a huge ordeal if it doesn't have to be. Anxiously awaiting your technique!
Sorta got sidetracked with work and other projects, but I PROMISE I'll actually make a video this weekend.
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