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Old 04-17-2017, 02:20 PM   #11
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Interesting, I was looking for something like that but couldn't find anything. I'll have to go look again.

Anyone have opinions on the gauge of metal to use to replace the floor? I've seen at least 4 different sizes used in different threads here. Seems like 16-18 is pretty common. We'd like to use the thinnest possible without causing problems down the road.

Does the metal serve any purpose other than protecting the insulation and flooring from road debris? The stuff currently on the bus is about as thin as you can get.
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Old 04-17-2017, 02:43 PM   #12
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That floor metal isn't under a lot of stress because it's layed out flat. A lot of people are simply using sheet metal they have on hand.

I believe you're correct. The flooring is primarily just a barrier to protect the inside from water intrusion.
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:50 PM   #13
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RE: heater.. in a cutaway bus like yours, it may just be tied into the Van's Heating system. someplace under the hood you should find a couple T fittings where you see existing rubber heater hoses.. most times these are under the hood...

if you never want heat in the back.. (and it will get chilly back there on the road in cold weather driving), then you can remove the T's going to the rear heater hoses and use an inline splice, or replace the existing ford heater hoses wit ha single piece and eliminate it altogether and just have your dash board heat..

the A/C (if you have it) will be the same... or it may just have dashboard A/C and thats it.. nothing to work on if it doesnt have A/C or dash only.

if you remove the heater, I definitely wouldnt leave the hoses underneath the bus... its just another place for a Leak to occur.. ..coolant leaks in any vehicle are bad, but esp bad in a diesel because of the low temperature that determines Over-heat..

the 7.3 is considered Overheated at 235-240 and will de-rate and shut down.. whereas most gas vehicles you can get away with 260 and not destroy anything..

the floors - to me I would put metal back down... esp in a cutaway style bus.. while it may not be officially structural, a lot of parts of busses work together to become the whole structure..

id yank the floor and Ospho and paint or undercoat the exposed ribs, then coat and install new sheetmetal, then your chosen insulation, subfloor, and finish on top of that.
-Christopher
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
RE: heater.. in a cutaway bus like yours, it may just be tied into the Van's Heating system. someplace under the hood you should find a couple T fittings where you see existing rubber heater hoses.. most times these are under the hood...

if you never want heat in the back.. (and it will get chilly back there on the road in cold weather driving), then you can remove the T's going to the rear heater hoses and use an inline splice, or replace the existing ford heater hoses wit ha single piece and eliminate it altogether and just have your dash board heat..

the A/C (if you have it) will be the same... or it may just have dashboard A/C and thats it.. nothing to work on if it doesnt have A/C or dash only.

if you remove the heater, I definitely wouldnt leave the hoses underneath the bus... its just another place for a Leak to occur.. ..coolant leaks in any vehicle are bad, but esp bad in a diesel because of the low temperature that determines Over-heat..

the 7.3 is considered Overheated at 235-240 and will de-rate and shut down.. whereas most gas vehicles you can get away with 260 and not destroy anything..

the floors - to me I would put metal back down... esp in a cutaway style bus.. while it may not be officially structural, a lot of parts of busses work together to become the whole structure..

id yank the floor and Ospho and paint or undercoat the exposed ribs, then coat and install new sheetmetal, then your chosen insulation, subfloor, and finish on top of that.
-Christopher
Good point. This is exactly why I ask questions even when I think I have an answer. My original thought was that the longer hose would help ever so slightly with overheating because of the longer time spent away from the engine... but avoiding unnecessary coolant loss through leaks seems wiser.

And for the record, we have dash air but nothing else at the moment.

Thanks for the input on the floor as well. Any opinion on thickness for the metal? I'm currently leaning towards 18 gauge.
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Old 04-17-2017, 07:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
That floor metal isn't under a lot of stress because it's layed out flat. A lot of people are simply using sheet metal they have on hand.

I believe you're correct. The flooring is primarily just a barrier to protect the inside from water intrusion.
I wish I had sheet metal on hand, but I don't right now. I can't find anyone local with reasonable prices either. I'll probably have to order through a friend's work.
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Old 04-18-2017, 11:13 PM   #16
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Anyone know where to find a 'hood' for the air filter assembly?

Need to replace it because it cracked and chipped (letting air bypass the filters) but can't seem to find one no matter how much googling I do.
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Old 04-19-2017, 12:20 AM   #17
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The local truck parts junk yard would probably have something.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:17 AM   #18
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****...

I finally found what I'm looking for.

BRAND NEW OEM AIR CLEANER 1996-2003 FORD E350 E450 E550 ESD 7.3L #3C2Z-9600-A

$450 seems unreasonably high.

Robin, I'm definitely calling around to the junk yards now.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:27 AM   #19
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If that's the only replacement I end up finding, I think I'm going to find a different way to solve this problem.

I have some extra room to work with because both batteries are in the battery box (in the e450 that means I've gained valuable real estate easily accessed under the hood.

This would fit well...

Riffraff Diesel 6637 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke Intake Filter Kit

Although now I'm getting worried about how much dirt got sucked up there before I noticed the filter was able to be bypassed. Dirt can kill the engine and/or turbo...

Is there any way to check and/or clean dirt out?
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Old 04-19-2017, 10:40 AM   #20
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Unless you live on a dusty gravel road there shouldn't be a lot of junk getting sucked into your engine. Most airborn particals simply blow through the exhaust system.
If you can't get a top cover that fits, consider getting an entire air filter cannister off of another junk yard truck that you can adapt to your bus. It may even improve your air flow.
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