Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-10-2017, 04:33 PM   #71
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 9,573
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
sure sounds like its possible.. whats the weather like where you are? is it cold? I have started my 444E before on 75 degree days without using the glowplugs (just plain forgot) and it would swing a little longer but would start
-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 09:15 PM   #72
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 312
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
The weather was about 70 today. After getting it to start that first time, it started immediately the rest of the day. We were able to complete the coolant flush and take it out for a drive tonight.

Tomorrow we will begin testing glow plugs individually.

It felt good to drive the bus. But it also reminded me that I have more problems to deal with.

This thing does not like accelerating, especially when first starting. I'm no expert, but it feels like the engine is responsive to the throttle being pushed. There is only a problem at low speeds. Perhaps a problem getting from 1st to 2nd, but I had a hard time telling for sure tonight.

Also, it is extremely slow up hills. I turned from a red light and had to go up a fairly steep hill right away. I got stuck going 10 MPH until the grade came down a little. It was steep, but we aren't talking mountains here...

Any tips on things to check? Is there anything I can measure with a scan tool while driving to get better insight?
__________________
Our build thread
PigPen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 09:27 PM   #73
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 9,573
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Hard starts and no power , don't ignore checking the fuel pressure.. you may have a weak pump or clogged screens as others mentioned...
Before testing plugs get s gauge and install it on the test port near the filter and see what you have , even brake stand it a bit to see if a bit of load pulls the pressure down..
Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 10:54 PM   #74
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 312
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
Okay, I'll do that tomorrow then. Will any normal test kit work? What I'm asking is: can I just go grab the autozone loaner or do I need to buy something more specific?
__________________
Our build thread
PigPen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 02:21 AM   #75
Bus Nut
 
joeblack5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 926
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford e350 2 mercedes
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
Our 7.3 vans have a exhaust valve that is closed when the engine is cold.
This will help heating up the engine.
If it is activated the engine has very little power and also sounds like it is restricted.

I am not familiar with the 2003 version with electric fuel pump but the fuel pressure is critical for power.
The older version, (two stage mechanical fuel pump) need a fuel pressure of 55psi + and with 15 psi it will run but is hardly driveable.

Pick your poison.

Later J
joeblack5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:10 AM   #76
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 9,573
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I believe the PSI is 65 on the electric pump.. on the mechanical pump, the early versions were built with a 47 PSI spring, the #8 injector would bottom out at times so they produced a 72 PSI spring.. I updated mine...

so I know they will run fine on 47 PSI...

the way these engines work is there is a second oil pump that builds super high pressure.. 1000+ PSI, they use that oil PSI to multiply the fuel pressure in the injectors themselves that make the shot.. low fuel pressure results first in injectors bottoming out (im told).. really low fuel pressure results in low-fueling to the cylinders.. the computer monitors the commanded and actual High pressure oil, but doesnt monitor the High pressure fuel...

if the High pressure oil (HPOP) system is faulting the computer usually issues a code related to the ICP or IPR.. the ICP is the sensor that reads the high pressure oil - actual pressure, and the IPR is the regulator that regulates it.. so the computer watches to see if the commanded and actual are close.. if the ICP sensor goes bad then its possible that the computer "thinks" the HPOP is higher than it really is.. result - under-fueling. the only way I know to check that is to run it on a full computer scanner and watch the IPR command %..

I hadnt thought of the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve.. i dont have one ofthose on my 444E.. its a good thought though usually the engine sounds "wierd" when that sticks closed..
-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 11:17 AM   #77
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,697
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Glad to hear the beast is finally growling!

A stuck backpressure valve could explain the dogginess and it's fairly easy to get at to check. The linkage runs from the turbocharger pedestal to the turbo output just before the down pipe.

My pedestal was leaking oil at the linkage so I removed the valve/linkage and plugged the hole in the pedestal.

After all this you'll be fairly well versed in Powerstroke lore.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 02:38 PM   #78
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,697
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
Your starting problem made me curious about testing the glows. Here's a post from one of the Ford forums:


"A quick check with a digital ohm meter at the Glow Plug Relay, between the large lug towards the drivers side & ground, with the key off should read 8 to 9 ohms..if all of the glow plugs are good..Also, check the voltage with the key on on a cold start, should read about 10.5 to 11 volts if the system is working properly.. You can also check each of the glow plugs individually at the valve cover connector..with the following :

GGIICIIGG
G - Glow Plug
I - Injector +
C - Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the side's gasket connector or UVC harness being shorted."


Your 2003 will have one wiring harness connector on each valve cover on the valley side of the cover if memory serves. Getting at the connector to test each pin may be a chore. The older 7.3's had two connectors on top of each cover.
__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 05:14 PM   #79
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 312
Year: 2003
Chassis: E-450
Engine: 7.3 Turbo
Interesting, thanks for the information. It rained all day so I didn't get a chance to do anything. I just got over here and it started first try again after sitting overnight. Took it on another drive, definite improvement over yesterday, though still obviously sluggish.

I'm looking at the turbo now. Is this where the valve would be?



It is right in front of the clamp holding the down pipe on.
__________________
Our build thread
PigPen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 05:58 PM   #80
Bus Crazy
 
roach711's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
Posts: 1,697
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
Rated Cap: 19
I think that's it. The linkage should be under the turbo in that area. Look for a rod coming out of the turbo pedestal and connecting to a lever that opens/closes the butterfly valve inside the adapter on the turbo outlet (this is all from memory). In the picture below that oily-ass rod in the center of the picture is the actuator rod.

__________________
The Roach Motel
roach711 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.