Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-28-2017, 01:22 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Remington's 2000 7.3 International Shorty

Hey, guys! I finally joined the club Huge thanks to EastCoastCB for helping me find this lovely shorty and for answering all my questions! You rock! I flew from WA to CO and drove this baby home in record time, I love how comfortable it is to drive!

Well, here she is!



Got home yesterday and already made some decent progress!





Is the general consensus here that I should remove all the flooring? I took out the middle aisle strip and I'm unsure if I should rip it all out. I'm 6'6" and would rather not raise the floor, as of now I have 6'5" of headroom. Also, I can't decide on whether or not I should remove the rear heater... So many paths to choose from.

Are you guys insulating the walls and ceiling too? I don't know if this is necessary or if I can just paint over the walls. I would rather insulate the walls than the floor or ceiling though, that's for sure. I live in WA and I plan to travel all over North America. I will have a wood burning stove for when it's really cold/.

Thanks for all the help, this is a great community!

I will be updating this thread and video documenting my entire build. Be on the lookout for my videos! Cheers!
Remington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 01:34 AM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Once you get all of the linoleum up you will be in a better position to determine whether to keep the current floor or re-do it. School buses by their very nature get a lot of water on the floor. A bus from CO is going to get considerably more in the form of snow.

All of that moisture tends to cause problems over time. It will be particularly bad in corners and around the wheel wells. Most of the time the buses never run long enough to get warm enough to dry all of the moisture out. Which over time will tend to rot parts of the plywood.

At 6'6" I think you need to seriously think about a roof raise. Even if you are only going to be running around the NW you are going to want something between your living space and outside besides what is there currently.

One of the buses I owned came from a mining company in NV or UT. They paid extra to have the entire underside of the passenger compartment to be insulated with spray foam. It was thick enough that you could not see any of the floor joists. It also covered up a lot of stuff that in order to work on it you just abandoned the stuff and re-plumbed or re-wired.

The problem for anyone doing it on an older bus is I don't know that you would ever be able to get it clean enough for the spray foam to stick permanently to the underside of the bus.
Hey, accidentally formatted my thread wrong and missed the 120-minute window so I remade it.

My dad is trying to convince me that the floor isn't rusty enough to need to rip it out. He's smart, DIY in every aspect of life, but he has never converted a bus... So I'm seeking some advice.

Did you guys keep your rear heaters? This is another thing I'm indecisive on ripping out.

If I rip out the floor, how many inches will the insulation + new flooring add to the height of the floor? A roof raise sounds like a ton of work for me. Idk if I could get my dad on board either. I should add that I'm 6'6" but my bus interior height is about 6'5 I can stand pretty comfortably. I can stand completely straight up under the roof hatch or on the stairs.

Any tips for material on insulating the walls? Once again, my dad said that they are double walls and I could get away without insulation. From what I've gathered, everyone on this forum is very pro insulation.
Remington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 03:39 AM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
is not hard to raise the roof or build a flat one..rear heater and lines can be ash canned, as rv heater should be installed. also a small wood stove is great esp in the damp nw like wa and ore. I have built my own wood stoves and made all of them zero clearance with a fan. i always just use the existing flooring that is metal as now i always make a 8 inch higher floor with storage inside.. besides removing the windows when raising roof, the floor becomes hidden storage...
__________________
Jesus Christ... Conversion in progress.
chev49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 05:00 AM   #4
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 14,862
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remington View Post
Hey, accidentally formatted my thread wrong and missed the 120-minute window so I remade it.

My dad is trying to convince me that the floor isn't rusty enough to need to rip it out. He's smart, DIY in every aspect of life, but he has never converted a bus... So I'm seeking some advice.

Did you guys keep your rear heaters? This is another thing I'm indecisive on ripping out.

If I rip out the floor, how many inches will the insulation + new flooring add to the height of the floor? A roof raise sounds like a ton of work for me. Idk if I could get my dad on board either. I should add that I'm 6'6" but my bus interior height is about 6'5 I can stand pretty comfortably. I can stand completely straight up under the roof hatch or on the stairs.

Any tips for material on insulating the walls? Once again, my dad said that they are double walls and I could get away without insulation. From what I've gathered, everyone on this forum is very pro insulation.
They are really comfy to drive all day aren't they? Air ride and air seat make for a nice bus!

Any signs of rust? mine has a bit I'm taking care of in prep for paint.
Did yours come with new-ish tires, too??
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 11:05 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by chev49 View Post
is not hard to raise the roof or build a flat one..rear heater and lines can be ash canned, as rv heater should be installed. also a small wood stove is great esp in the damp nw like wa and ore. I have built my own wood stoves and made all of them zero clearance with a fan. i always just use the existing flooring that is metal as now i always make a 8 inch higher floor with storage inside.. besides removing the windows when raising roof, the floor becomes hidden storage...
8 inches?! Goodness, that quite the floor raise. I'm steering clear of that, haha, a roof raise may not be hard for you, but as a 21-year-old with minimal experience in this field, that sounds terrifying. Scares my dad off too.

I'm nervous about removing the heater, I feel like I'm going to screw up the cooling system somehow, which is my biggest fear for every vehicle I ever drive from now on. My last rig (1986 Toyota Van) had the worst overheating problems.
Remington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 11:11 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
They are really comfy to drive all day aren't they? Air ride and air seat make for a nice bus!

Any signs of rust? mine has a bit I'm taking care of in prep for paint.
Did yours come with new-ish tires, too??
The air ride is AMAZING, I had a blast with all the air controls on the way home haha. Oh, the intercom too... Sure made me feel like a kid again. Such good fun.

These are the only two rust spots I've been able to find. Thinking I'm going for the full floor pull today, at least the vinyl. Did you pull the plywood in your AmTran? I'm curious if you removed your rear heater.



Back right side of the bus seems to be the only place with rust, I'm sure some more is just playing hide and seek though.



Also, how did you go about removing the L-Track on the floor behind the driver's seat? Every single screw won't budge and instantly strips while trying to remove it. Am I going to have to drill out every single one? That's 88 screws I would need to drill out... haha.

It's a project, but it's sure as hell a fun one! I have some great time lapses and videos of me working, stoked to make a full video of this

Oh, and the tires are in fantastic shape! The fronts are probably about 60% but the back look new!
Remington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 11:38 AM   #7
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 14,862
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remington View Post
8 inches?! Goodness, that quite the floor raise. I'm steering clear of that, haha, a roof raise may not be hard for you, but as a 21-year-old with minimal experience in this field, that sounds terrifying. Scares my dad off too.

I'm nervous about removing the heater, I feel like I'm going to screw up the cooling system somehow, which is my biggest fear for every vehicle I ever drive from now on. My last rig (1986 Toyota Van) had the worst overheating problems.
I wouldn't bother to raise the roof on a shorty, and CERTAINLY not the dang floor!
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 11:41 AM   #8
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 14,862
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remington View Post
The air ride is AMAZING, I had a blast with all the air controls on the way home haha. Oh, the intercom too... Sure made me feel like a kid again. Such good fun.

These are the only two rust spots I've been able to find. Thinking I'm going for the full floor pull today, at least the vinyl. Did you pull the plywood in your AmTran? I'm curious if you removed your rear heater.



Back right side of the bus seems to be the only place with rust, I'm sure some more is just playing hide and seek though.



Also, how did you go about removing the L-Track on the floor behind the driver's seat? Every single screw won't budge and instantly strips while trying to remove it. Am I going to have to drill out every single one? That's 88 screws I would need to drill out... haha.

It's a project, but it's sure as hell a fun one! I have some great time lapses and videos of me working, stoked to make a full video of this

Oh, and the tires are in fantastic shape! The fronts are probably about 60% but the back look new!
Mines a little less rusty, but you'll be fine. Just attack that rust!
I haven't pulled the floors yet. Maybe next year I'll do that. I'd recommend it. I'd jsut go HAM on the l track with an angle grinder.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 01:38 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: WA
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Mines a little less rusty, but you'll be fine. Just attack that rust!
I haven't pulled the floors yet. Maybe next year I'll do that. I'd recommend it. I'd jsut go HAM on the l track with an angle grinder.
Yeah this L Track SUCKS! I'm going with securing it from the top and removing the bolts from the bottom. 1st one when great, been stuck on the second one for a bit now... I am doing it solo however. Having a friend come over now to help.

Replying to your response on my first thread: That's interesting how we have the exact same spot with rust! I've taken off most of the vinyl flooring now and the wood actually looks like it's in pretty good shape, I don't notice any rust near the wheel wells. Unsure whether I'm going to pull the wood yet or not.

This L Track project will probably give me the entire day to think about it haha. I don't know what bus number I got, I'll report back!
Remington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 01:40 PM   #10
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 14,862
Year: 2004
Coachwork: IC
Chassis: CE300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Remington View Post
Yeah this L Track SUCKS! I'm going with securing it from the top and removing the bolts from the bottom. 1st one when great, been stuck on the second one for a bit now... I am doing it solo however. Having a friend come over now to help.

Replying to your response on my first thread: That's interesting how we have the exact same spot with rust! I've taken off most of the vinyl flooring now and the wood actually looks like it's in pretty good shape, I don't notice any rust near the wheel wells. Unsure whether I'm going to pull the wood yet or not.

This L Track project will probably give me the entire day to think about it haha. I don't know what bus number I got, I'll report back!
My keychain that came with the bus has a little brass tag with the bus number.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
amtran, buslife, international, short bus, shorty

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.