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Old 01-03-2018, 09:42 AM   #791
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Picton,Ont, Can.
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I've got $100 an hour and a plane ticket for ANYONE capable of fixing my bus...
anyone want two grand for a twenty hour job??
Did you find a place to work on it? Tools can be pretty expensive to fly in.
Have you got a engine hoist for the rad or bring their own too?
A chain over a tree branch will lift that out of the way..so many options.

You have given others so much good advice but won't accept any. Better to part it out and recover some of your loss. That bus, according to the list you posted, never had any preventative maintenance and thus has all sorts of issues, make that expensive issues other than the leak. That is what happens without pm's regularly.

You bought it in haste without due diligence man so not many options.
I have no doubt you would have walked away if you had looked at it closely. You sold two good buses and were ahead money, now hate to see you spinning. You bought to have a 215hp grocery-getter for the cool factor no doubt, which that was not built for. An ego thing I suppose.

A quick search on that engine led me to all kinds of info you might need. What parts aren't you clear about?

Success comes in "CANS", not "CAN'TS", so give it a ago as so many others have suggested too. A nervous breakdown sure won't help anyone will it?
Put some hard work and sweat into rather than a lot of money.
Hate to be so blunt but someone has to, you refuse help.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:52 AM   #792
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Engine: gasser probably
Not much else to say that hasn't been said before.
Thank you for sharing this information with the rest of us.
Bus or no bus, keep around 😀

Sent from my Life One X using Tapatalk
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:59 AM   #793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Did you find a place to work on it? Tools can be pretty expensive to fly in.
Have you got a engine hoist for the rad or bring their own too?
A chain over a tree branch will lift that out of the way..so many options.

You have given others so much good advice but won't accept any. Better to part it out and recover some of your loss. That bus, according to the list you posted, never had any preventative maintenance and thus has all sorts of issues, make that expensive issues other than the leak. That is what happens without pm's regularly.

You bought it in haste without due diligence man so not many options.
I have no doubt you would have walked away if you had looked at it closely. You sold two good buses and were ahead money, now hate to see you spinning. You bought to have a 215hp grocery-getter for the cool factor no doubt, which that was not built for. An ego thing I suppose.

A quick search on that engine led me to all kinds of info you might need. What parts aren't you clear about?

Success comes in "CANS", not "CAN'TS", so give it a ago as so many others have suggested too. A nervous breakdown sure won't help anyone will it?
Put some hard work and sweat into rather than a lot of money.
Hate to be so blunt but someone has to, you refuse help.
I've yet to see anyone chime in with actual advice about the specific problem. Just the continual suggestions of JB weld.
Again- If anyone has a manual they can share, or has any firsthand knowledge about this specific repair of a 2000-2004 DT466E I'd love to hear from you.
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:35 AM   #794
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Location: Essex, MD
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Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Again- If anyone has a manual they can share, or has any firsthand knowledge about this specific repair of a 2000-2004 DT466E I'd love to hear from you.
If it was a Cummins I could "help" you. Quoted because help is relative. I have the FSM for the Cummins in print (from the school yard) and in PDF (from Cummins). It is not what I'm used to in a FSM from the car manufacturers. There's a fair bit in there that says "remove cam shaft". well, yeah the cam shaft is in the way. I can see that. How do I go about removing the cam shaft?!? The auto FSMs hold your hand more.

Finding whatever Navistar has for an FSM has to be doable.
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:39 AM   #795
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Join Date: Sep 2017
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Year: 1999
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Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I got an email back from them. These guys are a total scam. the parts prices are higher than retail. I've got a part on a ticket with my name that I had them set aside for me before i took the bus down there.
They told me the front cover was 900 something plus tax, now they're wanting like 1200 for it. So I've asked them about that and waiting.
I'm not expecting to actually accomplish anything by this, I'm just trying to buy time "negotiating" so that I can arrange to get the bus out of there.

I can actually buy a reman engine for what they want to replace this cover.
Problem there is, how the hell do I pull this one out? I don't have access to a forklift or a crane.
I like the word "how" in your post.

You are thinking about how you could do it.

So, the engine weighs less than mine, and mine is, I believe, around 1400 lb.

A 1.5 ton or 2 ton shop crane can be rented quite cheaply, and you can build a decent engine stand from old pallets. You can support the transmission from below and leave it in the bus.
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:38 AM   #796
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Why is your internet search not fruitful? Mine told all you need to know.
New bolts on the new front cover. Torque to 18ft/lbs. Reassemble. Check work and then dump it.
New antifreeze also, not the blue windshield washer they put in.
John
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:42 AM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Why is your internet search not fruitful? Mine told all you need to know.
New bolts on the new front cover. Torque to 18ft/lbs. Reassemble. Check work and then dump it.
New antifreeze also, not the blue windshield washer they put in.
John
Can you give the links?

I got the part numbers for the covers and they're coming back as being for an EGR engine.
So basically the dealer are inept and still don't even know what engine is in the bus. Idiots.
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:48 AM   #798
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CB,

I've been sitting on the sidelines, cringing as I've been reading. As a former Master Diesel Mechanic (pre 2000 mind you) I wish I could help more effectively.

However, this engine was avoided due to the aforementioned issues in your thread.

Seriously look at a chain lift to help pull the engine. They are a cheap and very effective way to pull engines from vehicles. When I was in my government surplus business I used them often to replace engines, transmissions, and transfer cases. I even used one to pull my M1031 onto a U-Haul car carrier in November to get us up to Kansas.

If you can get an engine swap going I can help. I have no experience with your current engine, other than the basics about diesels in general.

Right now I'm brainstorming with the hope of maybe generating alternative ideas/solutions that could work.

I feel your pain. I've been there, suffered that, and, yes, it sux....

Those are my thoughts at this time. I'm always open to ideas that help, and, or are better.

Godspeed for a good solution ECCB!

M
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:53 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Can you give the links?

I got the part numbers for the covers and they're coming back as being for an EGR engine.
So basically the dealer are inept and still don't even know what engine is in the bus. Idiots.
Ok, here's an idea. I know it works with other engines, Cat in particular: Can the EGR part of the cover be deleted/blocked so it can be used for this engine?

It's just a thought. I have NO idea about these engines. However, I thought I'd put that idea out for discussion.

M
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:55 AM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1031A1 View Post
Ok, here's an idea. I know it works with other engines, Cat in particular: Can the EGR part of the cover be deleted/blocked so it can be used for this engine?

It's just a thought. I have NO idea about these engines. However, I thought I'd put that idea out for discussion.

M
The egr engine covers cost several hundred more, so I'd rather just get what is designed to fit directly. IF I try this I only get one shot and its gotta happen fast.
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