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Old 04-28-2017, 01:09 PM   #61
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I'm enough of a blockhead that I'll keep buying usb wifi adapters and compiling drivers until I get a combination that works reliably. For practical purposes, there's no reason why it shouldn't be a great way to go. I'm just not quite there yet.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:30 PM   #62
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I can't find a cheap source for a j1708 connector. I might design one and have my friend 3d print it while I'm in town. They should really be five dollar parts. Also, while I'm complaining about things, there should really be an affordable j1708+elm325+hc06 ready to go combo....

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Old 04-28-2017, 07:44 PM   #63
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Elm325 is a niche market, the 327 is obd2 which is all over, 1708 was short lived in the RV market mostly replaced by 1939 now.

The. Connector on my silver leaf box unplugs so I'll just use it for my own board.. , there's just a lot of PID missing in the silver leaf product.. navistar software snags them so I can too..
Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 01:34 PM   #64
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So one of my next projects is to literally takes everything out of the bus, line all the surfaces with reflectix, and then or everything back in. Unfortunately, with all the rain we have been in combines with a busy that wasn't as soft as it looked, some water managed to get in through a lens cover. Maybe this is the moment where I change my mind and take the metal ceiling out? I don't really see the ceiling going back up intact if I pull it down to replace the pink insulation....

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Old 05-02-2017, 01:58 PM   #65
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ive been thinking about gutting my DEV bus.. esp since I have the red one to cruise around in.. I cant imagine trying to gut a bus that you are living in and do it at the same time.. thats a serious project.. I hear people talk that the ceiling panels dont go back up nicely mainly because of having to grind off rivets.. my DEV bus has screws.. i suppose its a pipe dream to think that most of them would come out without griding or drilling..
-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:05 PM   #66
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Mine is screws, about 500 of them across each seam. It's a big job to take them down, for sure. I have a cordless impact drill that makes the screws easier but the sheer number of them is the real problem. But while I wait for the floods to recede at my next destination, I am in friendly territory where this sort of job might be reasonable.

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Old 05-07-2017, 08:44 PM   #67
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I happened to be near a MIcrocenter the other day and bought a Pi Zero for $5. After another $25 worth of adapters and accessories (usb otg, mini-hdmi to hdmi, sd card) and a couple hours of plonking, my network has been migrated and is fully stable.

Next goal is to use virtual interfaces to run both client and access point on the same adapter!
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:14 PM   #68
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when you say client and AP on the same adapter what do you mean? using the same radio to be an AP and a client? or use a 2.4 / 5 split client / AP..

what do you do? client to a public Wifi network and then NAT it to the devices in your bus via an AP?
-Christopher
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:24 PM   #69
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Using the same radio for both. This will have an effect on bandwidth, but since the Pi uses a single bus, and public wifi tends to not be amazing, it shouldn't really be a practical difference.

Right now I've got a high gain antenna on the roof from adapter A, connecting to public/store wifi networks, and a smaller antenna inside the bus on adapter B acting as the access point for laptops etc and doing NAT out.
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:32 AM   #70
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Once I get to a fairly optimal setup I'll document the whole thing. I've got a software piece that goes along with it as well.

I'm having some teething issues that I had previously that I managed to get worked out, but I've forgotten how I worked them out.
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