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Old 04-24-2018, 09:56 AM   #11
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Really good looking paint job! People have paid good money for paint jobs that look like that.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:00 PM   #12
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Join Date: Apr 2018
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: E-350
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
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Really good looking paint job! People have paid good money for paint jobs that look like that.
Thanks. I'm quickly realizing that doing my own work has quite a few other benefits, other than just saving money. I now have a solid air compressor and air tools, which has made my life so much easier--I had no idea how great they were until I tried them out!
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:29 PM   #13
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How to Remove the Floor in a Used School Bus

I decided to start where it would be the most difficult, since that's where I needed most of my energy. That was up at the front by the stairs.



I found as many metal trim pieces like in the picture, unscrewed as many screws as I could, and removed as many pieces as possible. Then I found an edge with the back side of the hammer and wedged it up just enough to fit a chisel underneath the rubber.


I didn't bother with removing the rubber first. I just pulled up whatever would come up.

I used a husky 8 gallon air compressor with their air chisel, and this worked wonderfully. I highly recommend everyone pick up some air tools, they make it so much easier to power through stuff.

Eventually, I found some screws that were embedded inside the plywood, making it impossible to unscrew. I ripped up the wood up anyway, using the crowbar, and just let the screws be.


I found that using swift, jerky motions ripped the wood best. I ended up with a few huge chunks of wood coming up, but also left some pieces of floor here and there. Those were easily dealt with on their own.









This was way more labor intensive than I thought, and that was with using the air chisel. I also found that a long crow bar really helped out a lot, as did a pick axe. Sure, it left a few holes in the floor, but I'm just gonna patch those up later.
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Old 04-25-2018, 06:38 PM   #14
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Year: 1995
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Chassis: E-350
Engine: 7.3L Powerstroke
How to Remove the Floor Heater in a Used School Bus

My floor heater ran off the engine coolant, meaning I couldn't just cut the lines and remove the heater because then the engine would lose coolant pretty quick. Fortunately, there are shutoff valves underneath the bus for both the in/out coolant lines.

I turned them off, put a bucket underneath, and straight up cut the lines just downstream of the valves. Some residual coolant spilled into the bucket, and then I simply unscrewed the heater, cut the electrical wires, and pulled it out. I was able to remove the entire floor this way.

However, I need to remove the rest of the lines under the bus because they take up precious space. I followed the lines back to the engine, and I'm going to try and figure out how to cap them off there so nothing runs back.

Any pointers on how to do that? What's a good material to use for a u-shaped hose to connect the output to the input? Or perhaps should I just take the shut off valves and put them further upstream? A friend told me to be careful with air bubbles in the coolant system. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 04-26-2018, 03:19 PM   #15
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What's a good material to use for a u-shaped hose to connect the output to the input? Or perhaps should I just take the shut off valves and put them further upstream? A friend told me to be careful with air bubbles in the coolant system. Any thoughts on that?
A piece of the heater hose you just pulled out would do nicely to short-circuit your heater coolant loop. Only you can judge what condition it is in and what the risk is vs going and buying a foot of the new stuff. Don't bother relocating valves or anything tricky like that.

You didn't just cut off circulation to your defrost heat coil, did you I'm guessing not, since you appear to have a cutaway from what's listed in your profile. Worth being sure about that.

Since you have a bus based on a van chassis, chances are good that you have an overflow container associated with your radiator - a "puke pot" in slang. That's where any air you introduce will make its way to; not a worry. Your worries are all about making sure your repairs don't leak.
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Old 04-27-2018, 12:50 AM   #16
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Well the curious thing is that the dash air doesnít work. Air con or heat. Or fans. Iíd like to get it up and running, so that may require some more investigation.
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Old 04-27-2018, 08:56 AM   #17
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My dream bus 😀
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:11 PM   #18
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Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
Chassis: Ford E-450 Cutaway Bus
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Rated Cap: 19
I spliced the heater lines at the back of the motor on our 2000 7.3L. Used two wood clamps to avoid too much coolant draining out and a 3/4" (IIRC) hose connector to splice them together. Five years later there's been no problems with this setup.

Our dash heater controls were disabled and heat was controlled at the add-on switch box on the engine cover. I had to trace the wiring and reconnect the factory wiring when I took out the switch box.
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Old 04-27-2018, 05:24 PM   #19
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Well the curious thing is that the dash air doesnít work. Air con or heat. Or fans. Iíd like to get it up and running, so that may require some more investigation.
Your heater/AC fan is located under the hood on the passenger side firewall. You can pull the wiring connector and jump battery power to the fan to test whether it works or not. If memory serves there's also a heater resistor in that area that's known to fry. The resistor controls the different fan speeds. Neither is too horrible to get at to replace if your starting battery isn't mounted there.
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:27 PM   #20
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Thanks. I'm gonna check this out once I get the bus back from the mechanic, so expect me to hit ya up sometime in the near future.
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