Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 01-05-2018, 09:53 PM   #51
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 435
Year: 2002
Chassis: e450 super duty
Engine: 7.3l ford powerstroke
That is awsome, finally ay.? That smile say's it all, one step closer. First step gut it.?
__________________
Blue Sky's
dopamine16 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2018, 10:15 PM   #52
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fayetteville Arkansas
Posts: 221
Yeah. We didn't do that on my shuttle bus so we've been fighting the heat on our trips the last several summers. I'll have to get some pictures of that one sometime..
This should be a lot easier to keep a comfortable temperature being so small.
Thomas1985 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2018, 02:23 AM   #53
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 435
Year: 2002
Chassis: e450 super duty
Engine: 7.3l ford powerstroke
Are you planning on putting better insulation in the walls.?
I was battling the cold on the trip to Colorado with no insulation at all, up all night but worth it. Is it not possible to sit on the passenger side with a removable floor cover in the entry door.?
__________________
Blue Sky's
dopamine16 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2018, 01:22 AM   #54
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fayetteville Arkansas
Posts: 221
I need to leave that space open for people to come and go. I use a 4 point tie down strap system in the floor to keep me from moving while we drive.
For the walls and ceiling I want to cover all my bases: conductive, convective, and radiative heat. I don't know why but I don't think I've seen anyone do it like this guy..

Inside Exterior Walls - Hot/Mixed Climates - AtticFoil® Radiant Barrier - Do-It-Yourself Professional Grade Radiant Barrier

I've been reading the forum for a while but I don't remember coming across any builds like this. If any of you guys know any please send me a link.
That's my plan. Creating the air gap for the radiant heat.
This last July 29 we were camping in South Texas near the White Water Amphitheater where we saw Slighty Stoopid and it was over 110°a couple of days. One night we thew all the doors open including the wheelchair lift and the windows while running fans and couldn't sleep we were so hot. This bus we're gonna work hard on getting insulated and using a window unit.
Fun times though. There's a great place called Kraus springs to cool off at and camp.
People choosing to live in Texas are obviously nuts! I admit I do enjoy a good endurance trial from time to time
Thomas1985 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2018, 02:35 AM   #55
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 1,486
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
I think you need to research that foil carefully.

In a home situation, and especially in an attic, it works because of the large air-space. I have heard of others using it in a Skoolie, but not with anything like those results.

They claim a tremendous R-Value as part of an installation, but there appears to be very little other than their claims to back it up.

You may have seen research I have missed, but I'd hate for you to be disappointed.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2018, 06:19 PM   #56
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fayetteville Arkansas
Posts: 221
I found some other sites that were specific to constructing metal buildings that also recommend having an air gap for radiant heat. Any of these aluminum foil products will work for reflecting that while my polystyrene (XPS) insulation does the rest of the work for conductive and convective applications.

https://www.ecofoil.com/metal-building-insulation

So instead of filling the wall panels I'm going to leave them as my dead air space after making sure it's airtight. Then put furing strips with foil stapled over that, foam board insulation, and then the inner wall. I decided I'm not worried about losing several inches of interior width because my bed has more than a foot of wiggle room between the walls anyway.
Thomas1985 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2018, 06:36 PM   #57
Bus Nut
 
Defjr333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Culpeper, Virginia
Posts: 280
Chassis: Shuttle or Shorty. Still hunting
Engine: Prefer Diesel
Rated Cap: 14 to 24 pref
Im torn on this topic/ subject. I have yet to see a cooler or fridge with an air gap before the insulation. Plastic or metal, they all seem to be solid foam sandwiched between the inside and outside layers(plastic or metal). In a house, yeah. You can get as much as 6" gap. But when the majority of us need every inch of space possible, I think I am going to forgo the "air gap". Unless I learn something definitive and provable. Never know....
Doug
Defjr333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2018, 07:30 PM   #58
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 1,486
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas1985 View Post
I found some other sites that were specific to constructing metal buildings that also recommend having an air gap for radiant heat. Any of these aluminum foil products will work for reflecting that while my polystyrene (XPS) insulation does the rest of the work for conductive and convective applications.

https://www.ecofoil.com/metal-building-insulation

So instead of filling the wall panels I'm going to leave them as my dead air space after making sure it's airtight. Then put furing strips with foil stapled over that, foam board insulation, and then the inner wall. I decided I'm not worried about losing several inches of interior width because my bed has more than a foot of wiggle room between the walls anyway.
Most folk line out their buses so that the wall sits on the edge of the protrusion on the chair rail. So you lose no more than about 3" of the standard 96" interior width.

Helpfully, that gives about three inches of space, each side, to fill with insulation and services (water and electrical).

If you can get close to 3" of foamboard or spray foam in there, you will not be unhappy with the result.
__________________
Steve Bracken

Build Thread
Twigg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.