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Old 04-26-2016, 03:01 PM   #371
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What about this?


the bronze pieces stand to represent the inside and outside parts of the dedbolt lock.
Grey would be a regular handle, or something fabricated.

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Old 04-26-2016, 03:46 PM   #372
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Ok, now I get it. I can see the deadbolt and now I know the thing I couldn't recognize is a handle.
I've got to do something like that or I'll never be able to leave the bus. I do have one door that locks from the outside. The rest lock from the inside except for the top hatch. Does anyone secure the top hatch when they leave their bus?
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:46 PM   #373
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Ok, now I get it. I can see the deadbolt and now I know the thing I couldn't recognize is a handle.
I've got to do something like that or I'll never be able to leave the bus. I do have one door that locks from the outside. The rest lock from the inside except for the top hatch. Does anyone secure the top hatch when they leave their bus?


Hmmm...good point on the hatches...These should be at least secured from the inside, even just a few thumb screws.
Specially if the bus was my residence, I would want to avoid someone with a tall ladder to play M:I on me.
Right?
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:55 PM   #374
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You've never seen anyone climb up the mirrors like a monkey? They don't care if they bend them while climbing.
That's another reason to have the deadbolts on the other exits. You can't get much out through the top hatch with all the exits locked, well except small valuable things.
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Old 04-28-2016, 10:25 PM   #375
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Question (what's new, right?!?)

Robin, i completely agree; it's important to lock up as much as possible, specially with lil ones traveling with you.

So here goes the question, and i apologize in advance if , but my search didn't really bring much material to answer this: what to do with household fridge and other "delicate" appliances (portable AC, for ex.) and vibrations?
I'm asking because, as the fridge i spent blood sweat and tears restoring (some sanding and a spray can of glossy grey) died without a warning (you know, warn a brother before you die, you stupid fridge!), i was looking at this lil fridge that apparently only uses 25W, which is great for my "lil genny that could"; however, the first thing i see on the pamphlet is "not for RV use".

I presume that is posted because it's a regular 110/120V unit, and most commercial RVs are 12/24V DC, so ppl would have a nice surprise trying to plug it in lol....

As i see most of the other builds do use household appliances, what do you do? rubber mat under them? nothing at all?

i have an old car tire (don't ask...) i don't need in the garage, and thought maybe to cut strips out of it, and lay them flat to cover the floor, making a "mat" for it?

Lack of sleep made me turn a simple question into a book...good night...
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:37 PM   #376
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Personally, I just moved my 110v fridge right in here. I figure take the risk. If it doesn't work I'll have to get something better when this one dies.
Buses are relatively level most of the time and I haven't been experiencing any problems from vibration, except when I forget to latch the fridge door before traveling. Sometimes I go around a corner and everything inside the fridge hits the door and the fridge kind of pukes on the floor. That's when you want to put the bus on cruise control and go back and pick things up so they don't continue traveling down the center isle.

I certainly don't know what refrigerators will hold up in an RV or not. Probably RV refrigerators? Generally I think it's good to keep a fridge level, so I try to avoid rolling the bus.

I do question how this fridge might react if it were actually running during the vibration of operating the bus on backroads. If I had house batteries I might be attempting to run the fridge while traveling and maybe that would damage something in the compressor or whatever fragile valves or parts there are. I don't know. It just happens that I have to unplug it when I travel but I do have a small genny to use if I can't plug in somewhere.

So far I've been putting my appliances right on the floor. The fridge seems fine, but I have some flat bottom file cabinets that seem to need to be slightly off the floor to allow some air flow. I have an uninsulated floor and water barrels also gathered moisture at the base on cold winter days. I don't know what will work well yet. I was going to try making some kind of mats that would allow airflow under these larger heavy objects. Rubber door mats might work pretty well. Welcome mat under the fridge?
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:34 AM   #377
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Originally Posted by skoolie_n00bie View Post
Robin, i completely agree; it's important to lock up as much as possible, specially with lil ones traveling with you.

So here goes the question, and i apologize in advance if , but my search didn't really bring much material to answer this: what to do with household fridge and other "delicate" appliances (portable AC, for ex.) and vibrations?
I'm asking because, as the fridge i spent blood sweat and tears restoring (some sanding and a spray can of glossy grey) died without a warning (you know, warn a brother before you die, you stupid fridge!), i was looking at this lil fridge that apparently only uses 25W, which is great for my "lil genny that could"; however, the first thing i see on the pamphlet is "not for RV use".

I presume that is posted because it's a regular 110/120V unit, and most commercial RVs are 12/24V DC, so ppl would have a nice surprise trying to plug it in lol....

As i see most of the other builds do use household appliances, what do you do? rubber mat under them? nothing at all?

i have an old car tire (don't ask...) i don't need in the garage, and thought maybe to cut strips out of it, and lay them flat to cover the floor, making a "mat" for it?

Lack of sleep made me turn a simple question into a book...good night...
Almost all of the middle to high end RV's use regular household fridges with no issues. My buddy has a Monaco 35' pusher rv and installed a fancy $2700 fridge with all the bells and whistles in his about a month ago. After a week or so it slowly started losing the ability to cool. Ended up being a factory defect. They had to drive back to Home Depot, remove the window and disassemble the fridge to get it back out but Home Depot did give them a full refund. They ended up buying a much cheaper basic fridge that had a mechanical thermostat for about $700.....following the KISS rule. The more gadgets you get on anything the more chance for something to fail.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:36 AM   #378
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Rubber door mats might work pretty well. Welcome mat under the fridge?
Maybe something like the mats used for gym and garage floors. High density rubber that should insulate well between the appliance and floor.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:12 AM   #379
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Originally Posted by dgorila1 View Post
Almost all of the middle to high end RV's use regular household fridges with no issues. My buddy has a Monaco 35' pusher rv and installed a fancy $2700 fridge with all the bells and whistles in his about a month ago. After a week or so it slowly started losing the ability to cool. Ended up being a factory defect. They had to drive back to Home Depot, remove the window and disassemble the fridge to get it back out but Home Depot did give them a full refund. They ended up buying a much cheaper basic fridge that had a mechanical thermostat for about $700.....following the KISS rule. The more gadgets you get on anything the more chance for something to fail.
Oh wow I thought mfg RVs had the "special" stuff....will try the small fridge, then!

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Old 04-29-2016, 09:42 AM   #380
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Some RV's do have "special RV stuff"...and it is mostly crap. The 3 way fridges being among the worst and most problematic.
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