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Old 06-24-2017, 09:15 AM   #91
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Outstanding! Can't wait to see more.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:57 PM   #92
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Thumbs up

Hi Christopher, looking good man! Do they do much testing of those after building them, before you picked it up? Just wondered if it ever had fluid in it yet and what about warranty.
You don't mess around about getting things done do you? lol

John
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:16 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by BlackJohn View Post
Hi Christopher, looking good man! Do they do much testing of those after building them, before you picked it up? Just wondered if it ever had fluid in it yet and what about warranty.
You don't mess around about getting things done do you? lol

John
3 year any miles warranty.. (I think, or is it 5... i know at least 3).. they are shipped dry... the valve bodies are wet tested, the units are full reman as opposed to just rebuilt.. so all new clutches / springs / balls / sensors , solenoids, wiring, etc... upgraded for 500 HP capability so the drum, input shaft, etc are upgraded.. the converter is brand new. I didnt need the upgrades but its how they build them all.. (many customers are installing these in vehicles where the "smoke" is cranked up.. and they make em for various levels of power-adding... my little 190 HP 444E is going to make it say "is there anything here?"..

to me it feels like this project is slow.. as im also working on a new product release.. my original product took 5 years of DEV work to get where it is... and ive basically taken the new offering and stuffed it into 1.25 years.. and the official release date is nearing.. big trade show this week (though I wont be there.. I refused to go NORTH.. for fear it might be CHILL. lol and the show is in canada.. nevertheless I'll definitely be doing some travelling once its back together as that helps me with my DEV work..

-Christopher
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:59 PM   #94
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so does this transmission require electronic controls?
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Old 06-25-2017, 07:47 AM   #95
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so does this transmission require electronic controls?
Yes it does.. I have a whole box of electronic goodies to wire up and make this thing work.

with a T-444E we can get the accelerator pedal position from the existing sensor on the foot pedal. the transmission has many of its own internal sensors and a separate computer, so a comm link between the bus ECM and the transmission computer arent needed.

these can be built to use the ECM comms but from what I understand establishing the data link and installing the correct software in the ECM and TCM is a PITA.. so running stanalone and letting the transmission Learn is the best way to go.

on a fully mechanical engine, you replace the modulator cable from the old AT545 / MT643 with a cable connected to a box that will read the accelerator pedal position back to the transmission.

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:17 PM   #96
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here we go!! now its the fun part!.. not that making my own parts and fitting together things that never were built isnt fun.. (it reallty is).. but the inner geek gets to come out and play now.

first thing was to plug the computer in while the laptoip was internet enabled. updated to the lastest firmware in the onboard ECM.



once that finished.. I wanted to find out whether im really going to need that dakota-digital speed sensor signal converter or not... so I jumped into programming mode.. and found that I could change the number of pulses per rev on the Vehicle speed sensor from the AT545's 16 up to 40 which is what the 1000 uses.. this is important because this is how the dashboard speddometer is driven and cruise control is operated.. it also had a place to set the final drive ratio of the transmission.. not sure what they use it for but I set it to the .60 whichj the allison 1000 is.. hit the save button and the parameters took..

I wont know truly until I drive the bus on its maiden voyage.



hooked up the wires to the Neutral safety / reverse light switch, and adjusted that.



I reckon it works since I put it in R and get backup lights and not when its in D or N.. the starter kicked in N but just clicked in R so i called it good! tightened the screws..



i decided im locating my transmission control computer in the battery compartment.. despite having a nice dognose bus, there really is nearly zero firewall room to put anything.. and putting it underneath isnt recommended though it is water resistant.



ran the secondary harness into the cab... and put connectors on the ends so its ready to route up into the dashboard. these wires are for the check Trans light, tap / paddle shifters / and ignition power..

NOTE: when you put connectors on your wires.. make sure they are idiot proof.. configure the number of slots and the sex of the connectors so things can only fit together 1 way...



I swear by GM-style weatherpak connectors... plus connecting to existing navistar circuitry is easy.. thats what they used as well..



-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:28 PM   #97
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Where do you source the GM-style weatherpak connectors? Are they knock offs or the real thing? Might come in handy when rewiring my bus.

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Old 06-26-2017, 05:52 PM   #98
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they seem like the real deal but dont say GM on them.. mine are called 'caspers'.. ive bought several of these sets ove the years..

https://www.amazon.com/Caspers-10300.../dp/B000IHFO4W

you can buy the original delphi ones too.. or maybe mine are the ones that say delphi.. I didnt pay attention.. I know they fit right into the ones on the bus.. a couple of the sensors on the bus have Metripak connectors but I havent had to plug into any of those circuits..

-Christopher
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:20 PM   #99
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Just wondering if there is a break-in period or mileage to follow Christopher?
Won't be long before the maiden voyage now. What's next? New engine?
That will be the coolest, best running bus on any road soon!

John
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:29 PM   #100
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A gettin closer indeed.

John,
The Breakin I was given is put 12 qts fluid in, start it, look for major leaks , and fill till stick says full cold while running. Then go high idle on engine and run till trans temp gets to 145 degrees. Run through all gears slowly and fluid should be between full cold and full hot. Then literally drive it like I stole it to teach the trans computer the initial limits .. it needs at least 4 cycles of gears 1-4. Then shut off let cool down to cold then drive as normal. If you fail the initial learn you have to reflash the TCM.
The use of software to monitor the trans helps in that you can make sure the electronic signal voltages are translating to the correct values.

It's really cool how all of us here are building very different busses, from permanent homes to mobile businesses , weekend campers, toy haulers , you name it.

In the hotrod world drivetrain swaps are the norm. So for me this comes as super exciting and fun but at the same time familiar territory.

One of the reasons for this thread is I want to show that an average guy like me with regular tools can do swaps of major components. Hopefully taking some of the fear out for those afraid to travel or afraid of what if something goes wrong . Yes it's real work but can be done without a full blown workshop. Even the electronics.

Christopher
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