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Old 06-18-2017, 10:18 PM   #51
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International S3800
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Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Next on the agenda.. a driveshaft.. yeah gotta send the power to the tires!! so better address that..

as i figured would be the case, the driveshaft position is back from the original.. its a known fact that generally the allison 1000 is 3/4 to 1 1/2" longer than the AT545 (depending on the bell you choose.. ).. if I had chosen an SAE2 bell, the adapter ring removal from the engine wouldve put me at just about 3/4 inch longer than the 545.. there is some leeway in the deirveshaft length and the mounting of the carrier support bearing..

the air suspension makes fitting this up easy.. as i dumped the air in the air-ride so now the bus sits down as low as its every going on its suspension.. this is important because the rear driveshaft is inserted into the spline as much as it will ever be.. you dont want to have too long a driveshaft and have the splines potentially bind on suspension travel... so i let all the air out.

the center support bearing mounts to a symmetrical plate thats in the frame opf the bus.. this plate is slotted and if needbe for a longer shaft could be flipped around..



when I mocked everything up.. I fitted the driveshaft to the yoke on the parking brake and into the splines.. then use the tranny jack to support it all in its near operating position.. as you can see im really close to the edge of the splines.. and if I flip that plate around I line up too far in front of the slots.. so I determined that 1 1/4" of length needed to be cut out of my driveshaft.. that puts me in the middle of the slots in the plate.. so i still have some wiggle room if needbe..

when you are measuring be sure to jiuggle the bracket on the bearing around to make sure that rubber is in its middle position and that the metal piece isnt cocked or stressed one way or the other.. that gives you the most neutral position to measure from..



so I dropped of the driveshaft yesterday at my favorite shop... getting a shaft shortened is a common routine operation.. most cities have shops that do this all day long... ive used the same guys for all my hotrod projects and they are great.. (Driveline 1 in columbus ohio)..

-Christopher
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:31 PM   #52
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Some clutches and torque converters may use safety wire instead of use of thead lock. I'm guessing that your bus doesn't.

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Old 06-18-2017, 10:45 PM   #53
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There definitely wasn't safety wire on it originally, there was evidence of possible thread lock although the bolts came out straightforward and didn't have that "crack" loose like loctite was in use.

The oncommand instructions from navistar recommended thread lock on the torque converter bolts and on the u joint bolts.
I've only ever seen safety wire once and the bolts tjemselves were different than regular ones.
Is one better than the other?
Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 02:35 AM   #54
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So I've been reading this thread with two browsers open at the same time. One with Skoolie.com and the other googleing stuff to understand what is being said here, lol.
Thanks for info.

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Old 06-19-2017, 08:11 AM   #55
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For our situations thead lock is fine. Safety wire is old school & mission critical situations. All though I have seen it used in high stress automotive situations.
Gordon

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Old 06-19-2017, 08:20 AM   #56
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I heard rumors some of the suspension parts on old cars used safety wire,, and that people found the bolts "loose" but of course they didnt back out and cause failure which is the most important thing.

of course in a rotational situation like torque converter bolts a loose but still wired bolt is about as good as a missing bolt..

I bought a jeep cherokee chief once years ago from a guy for $50.. he put a transmission in it.. and then was frustrated because a couple months later he "blew the engine".. said it has a horrible knock.. he was just over it by this point..

heck the tranny and tires were worth more than that.. turns out all 3 torque converter bolts were loose.. at the time I just tightened them up and went on my way for several years... it sure made a heck of a racket and amazingly didnt ruin the flex-plate..
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:27 AM   #57
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The most recent use of safety wire was on a high performance clutch pack. If not done right might as well leave the wire off and leave bolts loose.

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Old 06-19-2017, 08:34 AM   #58
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I could see where on a clutch pack with the high temperatures and flexinfg that LocTite would be useless.. since the recommended way to remove it is to heat.. and high perf clutches can get nice N warm..
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:46 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
so I lifted the transmission with a couple ratchet straps.. big ones.. and then I pulled the jack out from underneath.. so the transmission was supported by set ratchet straps.. the trans jack now went under the parking brake drum where i lifted it as a point higher on the trans.. and disconnected the rear ratchet strap. then I dropped the rear to the ground... next I took the trans jack to the front where I tried to lift the trans via the bell... no dice.. too big.. grabbed the car jack, and lifted the trans at the bell and went up top and released the ratchet strap from up above... then I could go safely from the front of the bus and release the car jack which let the trans to the ground!!!..

-Christopher
Next time use your ratchet straps to lower the tranny to the ground once teh jack is out from under it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
after the road trip, i chose to take a rest and Bake some cookies.. after all it had gotten cold and rainy for a couple days!. so i couldnt work at the bus itself..

and YES!! I still have christmas lights around my living room window!! (im into modern and Vintage christmas decorations as another Hobby).
You are an odd critter; hope to meet you someday!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
ahhh yes.. I remember these Blood-suckers.. AN fittings.. ugh.. anyone who has ever installed them has dealt with the Fray, the blood, the tears, and frustration they can bring unless you have great patience..
Wrap VERY tightly with tape, then cut. I have a car full of these damn things. They're great once you have all the hoses made. They are a MOTHER to get the hoses made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I could see where on a clutch pack with the high temperatures and flexinfg that LocTite would be useless.. since the recommended way to remove it is to heat.. and high perf clutches can get nice N warm..
Safety wire is used in aircraft stuff a lot. Kinda hard to park a plane at 37,000 feet, get out, and tighten a bolt even if you just happen to have the right size socket in your hand.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:59 AM   #60
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Join Date: May 2009
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
unfortunately ive not found a ratchet strap that would lower on the ratchet, its usually release and fly.. I was concerned if I just released it the damn thing taking my fingers off as it fell to the ground..

yep i definitely taped .. that and the cutoff wheel seem to be about the best tricks to those hoses.. ive had hotrods full of them over the years.. and they dont fail..

the red and blue ones in a hot rod look cool as heck..

being an aviation mechanic must be nerve racking.. "crap! wheres my 5/8 wrench.. did I leave it in the engine? did I tighten the fuel line before leasving the wrench in the engine?"

-Christopher
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