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Old 06-19-2017, 08:15 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
unfortunately ive not found a ratchet strap that would lower on the ratchet, its usually release and fly.. I was concerned if I just released it the damn thing taking my fingers off as it fell to the ground..
Really?!!? Even the cheapies I bought at Wally World for the kayak racket out as well as in. Granted those don't have the weight limit for a bus tranny but still.

On a side note, I've got two tie downs from semi trucks now. Found them in the middle of the road. Same road two different times. One is marked as 5500 pounds and has to be 15~20 feet long. That one is just the hook and strap. The other one isn't as big nor is it marked that I saw but it has the hook and the ratchet. I'll use the first as a tow strap if I ever get stuck. Double/triple wrap that sucker and I could pick the bus up.

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yep i definitely taped .. that and the cutoff wheel seem to be about the best tricks to those hoses.. ive had hotrods full of them over the years.. and they dont fail..
I don't remember if it was jig saw or cut off wheel that we used.

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Never being an aviation mechanic must be nerve racking.. "crap! wheres my 5/8 wrench.. did I leave it in the engine? did I tighten the fuel line before leaving the wrench in the engine?"
I wasn't Chair Force nor have I worked on planes but as I understand it, every tool box has a cut-out of the tool and a log. You log out every tool and the plane doesn't leave the hanger until all of the tools are checked back in and independently verified. A 12" monkey wrench in a turbo fan is going to end badly.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:28 AM   #62
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it could be that I just dont know how to release a ratchet strap via ratchet.. my nice 10k ones came via letting someone borrow my truck and they were in the backseat when I got it back.. my friend was like " we found them in the garage of the new house and have no use for them so here..".. someone said they are expensive to buy new..

interesting on tools in aviation.. but makes total sense..

-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:12 AM   #63
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Back in the "olden days" when I raced formula GP bikes, we safety wired just about everything. And when properly wired with rotational tension on the nut or bolt, they won't back out at all. Life savers.

Gotta ask...what did your park brake cable bracket come off of (yr/make/model)?
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:14 AM   #64
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Just about all ratchet straps(even the cheap ones) will ratchet loose as well as tight. Most people don't know how to do it though. Heck most people don't know how to use one period and the strap ends up in a huge ball and a complete mess. Here is a video that kind of explains it.

You essentially hold the load with the handle(he doesn't in the video), and release the lock(what he pries with a screwdriver) with your other hand, and then let the handle go back a tooth or two. Then you reengage the lock and reposition the handle back up 3/4 the way open. Don't go all the way open or it will release it uncontrolled. You just keep repeating this process of releasing the strap a tooth or two at a time until the load is off of it.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:25 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post


Haha yes! Judging by your expression, I think we both share the same reverent fear of the reciprocating saw. Every time I pick that devilish monster up, especially when it's loaded with the long cutting blade, I have a quick conversation with it: "You won't be removing any limbs or appendages today, right? RIGHT?!?!"
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Back in the "olden days" when I raced formula GP bikes, we safety wired just about everything. And when properly wired with rotational tension on the nut or bolt, they won't back out at all. Life savers.

Gotta ask...what did your park brake cable bracket come off of (yr/make/model)?
I took the original bracket which was from my 2000 Navistar 3800 with AT545.. it mounted across the top.. I cut the business end of the bracket off.. (which has the anchor for the cable), ground out a divet in the middle, just enough the bracket would rest on the rib of the trans case.. then drilled 2 holes in it and mounted it to the trans case..

there were a couple sets of holes in the original drum brake backing plate.. so using the second set I found it mounted perfectly to the 1000, and with a slight clockwise rotation from the position on the AT545 it made for a nice fit with the park brake bracket geometry..

I originally was trying to buy brackets for various GMC trucks.. (the bigger stuff like the 5500 / 7500) that have the sane tyope park brake.. but was finding lots of part numbers to sift through and the couple I found that i thought would work were Discontinued...

this pic shows the original bracket on the 545.. the 1000 has a fatter tail housing so this bracket wasnt going to straddle it. in some of the pics i found in my navistar service book, there were other things bolted to these sometimes..



-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:43 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booyah45828 View Post
Just about all ratchet straps(even the cheap ones) will ratchet loose as well as tight. Most people don't know how to do it though. Heck most people don't know how to use one period and the strap ends up in a huge ball and a complete mess. Here is a video that kind of explains it.

You essentially hold the load with the handle(he doesn't in the video), and release the lock(what he pries with a screwdriver) with your other hand, and then let the handle go back a tooth or two. Then you reengage the lock and reposition the handle back up 3/4 the way open. Don't go all the way open or it will release it uncontrolled. You just keep repeating this process of releasing the strap a tooth or two at a time until the load is off of it.
this is interesting.. because ratchet-down wouldve been a BIG help at times.. ive got to go play and see if I can achieve that.. seems what he does in the video kind of does that.. so he pulls the backup release out holds the load and the main release holds at the next tooth... cool stuff!
-Christopher
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:48 AM   #68
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Will you be ready to change mine when you are done with yours? ;)
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:53 AM   #69
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Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
this is interesting.. because ratchet-down wouldve been a BIG help at times.. ive got to go play and see if I can achieve that.. seems what he does in the video kind of does that.. so he pulls the backup release out holds the load and the main release holds at the next tooth... cool stuff!
-Christopher
Even 800 lbs and a tiny strap you don't want releasing all of a sudden. If you still have the engine hoist (or anything overhead) practice with a spare tire. 40 ~ 50 lbs should be enough that the teeth engage. Only pull the handle part of the way so it rotates freely. Then move it all the way so it disengages the gear, let it "drop" one tooth, rinse and repeat. Easy peasy. Come-Along works the same way. I have a little 1 ton Come-Along. The gearing and all that is bigger and easier to see but I'm at work and can't video it for you right now.
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Old 06-19-2017, 06:13 PM   #70
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I sometimes have to use that method for letting my come-along out. If it has a fair load on it then it just takes too much force to pop both pawls out of the way so the cogwheel can spin freely. It works well to release the one pawl on the handle so the handle can be repositioned, then engage that pawl and push the handle just a bit to relieve pressure on and release the fixed-position pawl. Let the handle down a bit, let the load rest on the fixed-position pawl, and repeat.

Definitely more fiddly with a ratchet strap because the parts are smaller, but it's doable. For some reason it never would have occurred to me to use a screwdriver to operate the fixed-position pawl. That's a good tip. On my ratchet straps that pawl is just a steel plate so I reach around the outside of the ratchet body and squeeze the plate between thumb and a finger to grip and slide it back.
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