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Old 09-20-2012, 09:45 PM   #201
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Re: The Roach Motel

There are no "bad dogs"... but here are a helluva lot of bad dog owners. Just sayin'.
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:15 AM   #202
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Re: The Roach Motel

Excellent photo of the outhouse at night. Perhaps you could post it on the photo thread in the "everything else" forum.
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:07 AM   #203
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Re: The Roach Motel

Thanx Accordian, I'll have a look. BTW, I just hung three of my upper cabinets "Accordian style" with the angle brackets and even with the screws going into fiberglass they're rock solid.
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:39 AM   #204
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Re: The Roach Motel

Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
Thanx Accordian, I'll have a look. BTW, I just hung three of my upper cabinets "Accordian style" with the angle brackets and even with the screws going into fiberglass they're rock solid.
Hanging the cabinets "Accordion style" is a sentence that makes me laugh. "Accordion style" makes me think of polka music. Although I like some polka music, I do not play polkas. I prefer tangos and Cajun music.



Screwing into fiberglass would make me leery of it's strength. On my bus, I used a 9/64th pilot drill bit and used sheet rock screws to go in to the metal.

Hopefully, your cabinets will stay in place. How thick is the fiberglass that you screwed in to?
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:32 PM   #205
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Re: The Roach Motel

Quote:
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Hopefully, your cabinets will stay in place. How thick is the fiberglass that you screwed in to?
I'd say the fiberglass inner skin is about 3/16th's thick and it holds a sheet metal screw real well. I didn't test mine by hanging from them like you did but I did give each a good yanking on and they all held fine. All my upper cabinets have one end anchored to one of the closet cabinets and 3 or 4 angle brackets along the rest of their length. Time will tell, but I think they'll be fine.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:07 PM   #206
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Re: The Roach Motel

Having that side support will greatly enhance the strength of the cabinets.
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Old 09-26-2012, 05:54 PM   #207
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Re: The Roach Motel

The bedroom upper cabinets are in



I had a somewhat drawn-out water heater adventure this week. I fired it up and a few minutes later happened to look out the window to see a lot of black, sooty smoke coming out of the heater. I quickly shut it down but it wouldn't come on again. After poking around a bit I found a thermal cutoff that's supposed to kill power to the heater if the flue gets blocked and flame backs up into the water heater controls. Naturally, it not resetable and had to be replaced. About a week later the replacement arrived and troubleshooting resumed. I checked the gas pressure after cobbling up a handy-dandy manometer, cleaned the flue tube, checked the gas orfice for blockage and just generally sat there and stared at the ornery bugger. None of it made a bit of difference, particularly the staring. Finally, I looked online and found a good troubleshooting site which suggested (among other things) to check the burner tube for spider webs. Five minutes later the heater was burning nice and blue instead of the sooty orange flame before. Bloody spiders

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Old 09-26-2012, 06:45 PM   #208
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Re: The Roach Motel

"Man-o-meter" Does it spew when its all hot and bothered? looks like just aplastic tube full of water
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:17 PM   #209
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Re: The Roach Motel

Roach, your cabinets are awsome--the fit and finish is perfect.

Your manometer obviously will work just fine and is quite clever-- it doesn't need it to work but a drop of food coloring would make it easier to read I think. How about 'splaning how a monometer works to the rest of us? Jack
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:32 PM   #210
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Re: The Roach Motel

Bansil - you're evil. You know that you are. The Man-O-Meter you're thinking of is called a ruler

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
Roach, your cabinets are awsome--the fit and finish is perfect.

Your manometer obviously will work just fine and is quite clever-- it doesn't need it to work but a drop of food coloring would make it easier to read I think. How about 'splaning how a monometer works to the rest of us? Jack
Jack - Me thinks you probably know way better how to use this thing than I do, but here goes.

Propane 101

Propane bottles have pressures varying between not much when empty to around 250 psi when full, but propane appliances require steady pressure of about .5 psi. The regulator sits between the bottles and the appliances and knocks the pressure down so the appliances will be happy. Several things can screw up that pressure adjustment. Sometimes the regulator will get out of adjustment, propane lines can leak or get crimped and sometimes junk gets in the propane tanks and clogs orfices.

So you may have an appliance that's screwing up but how do you know whether it's mechanical or gas pressure related? That's where the manometer comes in. Basically, it's just a clear tube with a little water in it attached to a backer board with a scale which lets you measure pressure in inches of water column. You hook it up to the low-pressure side of the regulator and when you turn on the gas the pressure moves the water column. Typically, propane static pressure (that is, with no leaks or gas appliances running) will be 14 inches of water column. With several appliances running you want to see at least 10 inches.

I built mine out of some foam board and some 1/2" plastic tubing that was laying around, and Instead of using expensive brass fittings to connect to the gas lines I just used electrical tape. The pressure is so low in the propane lines that the tape seals just fine. To test gas pressure to the water heater I disconnected the gas line coming into the water heater regulator and taped the manometer tube to the fitting on the incoming gas line.

You can also use your manometer to test for leaks in the system by pressurizing the system then turning off the propane bottle valves and watching the manometer for any drop in the water column.

Here's a link to instructions for building one:

http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

One mistake I made was to make the lower loop too small and the small amount of water was being blown right out the top of the tube (Bansil,just keep it to yourself ). After much head scratching I finally just made the lower loop longer and that solved the problem.

I built mine because the spider webs in my burner tube made it look like I had very low gas pressure to the heater. By hooking up the manometer I could rule out low line gas pressure.
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