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Old 03-24-2012, 10:56 PM   #51
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Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
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Re: The Roach Motel

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwarf36
From reading posts on another site, (http://www.dieselstop.com) that is pretty normal. And its suggested to block the holes in the block off permenently to prevent it. Its oil that drives the engine brake flapper on the turbo. Some say you get more power + better mileage with it diasabled. Luckily, the turbo comes off without too much work.
A good place to get turbo parts is http://www.gpopshop.com.
I ordered my turbo parts from dieselorings.com. They come highly recommended also. Rebuilding the pedestal actuator was going to run about $100 with no guarantee that the leak won't come back. The alternative is to remove the pedestal actuator alltogether and install a pipe plug in the hole left by the actuator shaft. If I have a pipe plug laying around it's a free fix and the leak never comes back. I like free a lot.

I'm toying with the idea of hooking up a manual choke cable to the disconnected back pressure valve and turning it into an engine brake for those long downhill runs.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:37 PM   #52
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, Mi (Detroit area)
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Coachwork: Eldorado Aerotech 24'
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Re: The Roach Motel

I swear I'm going to rename this goofy thing "Leaky Lucy."

Last weekend we had a good, steady rain and I was patting myself on the back for ferreting out all those leaks. Well, you know what happens when you start congratulating yourself - you find ANOTHER FREAKING LEAK!!.

This one showed up at the base of the long front window next to the double door. I could see a few gaps in the sealer from the inside but when I pulled the rubber trim from around the outside I was shocked to see that there was literally more leak than sealant. How it leaked as little as it did is a mystery to me. At least the thing came out easily

Anyway, a tube of windshield sealer took care of it. Pricy stuff at $25 a tube but likely worth it.



With a bit of luck this weekend I'll get that turbo rebuilt and MAYBE, (if the planets line up just right) we may actually have a working alternator. I'll be SO GLAD to get done with these engine repairs and get to the fun part.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:39 PM   #53
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Re: The Roach Motel

I pulled the rubber & windows from the door glass and re-installed with Henry's 212 Crystal Clear All Purpose Patch (Elastometric sealant). I've used it on all the fixed glass/rubber seals except for the windshield. This stuff can even be used on wet surfaces. I've used a lot of it on the bus to seal lights, holes, windows, etc. And costs under $9.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:29 PM   #54
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Re: The Roach Motel

Quote:
Originally Posted by lornaschinske
I pulled the rubber & windows from the door glass and re-installed with Henry's 212 Crystal Clear All Purpose Patch (Elastometric sealant). I've used it on all the fixed glass/rubber seals except for the windshield. This stuff can even be used on wet surfaces. I've used a lot of it on the bus to seal lights, holes, windows, etc. And costs under $9.
Good catch Lorna! I'll have a look at it. The price is certainly right. I got sticker shock from the windshield sealant.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:59 AM   #55
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Re: The Roach Motel

Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711
... I got sticker shock from the windshield sealant.
I'm "frugal". Also known as "cheap" in less polite circles. When ever I see a high priced thingy you guys use or a way of doing something, I will post a link or method that is cheaper. I'm not trying to insult you or anything but I'm frugal. Every $ I save on one thing can be used in another spot.

IE: I have found it's cheaper to buy a cheap inverter and hook up 110vAC lights to the inverter than to buy a pile of expensive 12vDC lights. I accomplish the same thing for 1/2 the cost of DC. I can take the $200+ I'm saving on lighting and use it someplace else.

IE: By painting our cabinets, I can use a lesser (cheaper) grade of plywood over buying expensive "cabinet grade" (stainable) plywood.

IE: By using an 8" deep one third stainless steel steam table pan we had, I didn't have to buy a bathroom sink.

Yep, I'm frugal. Yesterday, I made a cardboard template of the ceiling curve so that I can lay out the sides of the can rotators I'm going to install in the cabinet over the freezer. I will be building the sides of the can rotators out of the FREE 1/4" pegboard I found on Craigslist and some scrap plywood we have. I'm also going to use the FREE pegboard to build the drawer peg system and some rotators for other foods like mac & cheese boxes, pasta, microwave popcorn packets (comes 28 to a box), instant cocoa packets (comes 60 to a box), and anything else I find a need for. I like free stuff.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:06 AM   #56
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Re: The Roach Motel

I will have to try the henry's stuff. For many applications, especially industrial, i use the same rubber calk stuff that you put windshields in with. It is extremely stick and durable. I have used it for many years, and i have found that is tougher than silicone. But the price is around 16 a tube at the automotive paint store here. If you use that stuff to plug a hole, it aint coming out...
will try some of the henrys stuff and see how tough it is...thanks for the link
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:38 PM   #57
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Re: The Roach Motel

<hijack>Lorna, I would very much like to see the end result of your rotators. That sounds internesting. </hijack>
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:32 PM   #58
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Re: The Roach Motel

No worries Lorna, I'm cheap as the day is long. Keep those ideas coming!

Yesterday I pulled the turbocharger to get at the leaky pedestal and as I pulled it out it split into two halves! The 4 bolts that hold the bearing section to the hot turbine section were laying in the engine valley and looked like they'd been there for quite some time. I roundly cursed the mechanics that had worked on it before but after a bit of research I found that this is a known problem and there is a bolt kit with modified threads that will fix the problem. The ford part# is 1C3Z-9G486-AA and costs about $25. Some red locktite couldn't hurt either.

Anyone with a 7.3l Powerstroke should have a look at these bolts. I read about motors with only 40,000 miles having the problem.

Fortunately, my turbo is OK.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:38 PM   #59
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Re: The Roach Motel

Well, halelujah (sp?)! The alternator alternates, turbocharger charges and no more leaks! I'm like Snoopy, jumping up and down with joy.

I also ran wiring to the ceiling lights and got some foam insulation installed on the ceiling.



Next big project is to get the grey tank installed and figure out how to run the drain from the shower.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:41 PM   #60
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Re: The Roach Motel

Ahhhh --- there are joys that just can't be experienced any other way than building a Skoolie! I'm in the midst of hanging tanks myself. If you can...jack it up and put it on stands so you can get to everything comfortably. My back & neck are killing me from being in a half sit up for the last two weeks.
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