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Old 10-30-2016, 05:11 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific North Wet
Posts: 1,766
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by chad.nuesmeyer View Post
We are planning on using some sort of white hardboard - like this. Haven't quite made up my mind but, have seen it done before it looks nice and clean.

The folks at Outside Found had a good article about attaching it... link here.
Thank for the suggestions Chad.

I have worked with that material and had a bit of trouble getting it to bend without breaking. It looks like the folks at Outsidefound have it figured out. We may have to snag a sheet and see how well it conforms to the ceiling for us.

Thanks again.

S.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:26 PM   #12
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific North Wet
Posts: 1,766
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Good morning Everyone,

It looks like we may be leaning towards a painted or stained wood ceiling. I would love to hear from anyone who has thoughts on managing noise?

Also, I have another question regarding air conditioning:

The bus came equipped with Carrier road air condidioning. What are the advantages/disadvantages to keeping it vs getting rid of it and engineering our house air conditioning to run while on the road?

Keep it or loose it? Why? Why not?

What do yo all think? Christopher?

Thanks.

S.
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Old 11-01-2016, 12:48 PM   #13
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,569
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
road A/C.. alot depends on how much the bus is going to be on the road vs parked.. and whether the space is needed under the bus and on the ceiling where the unit resides..

in a cutaway E Series bus they often have Dashboard A/C as well as the rear system...

this allows you a path to remove the rear portions and then rework it to have your Dashboard A/C for the road... I only suggest yanbking the rear system if it is physically either non-working or gets in the way somehow space-wise for what you want to do..

some coach builders simply tie the rear system into the Van dash system.. others make the only condenser used the one under the bus..

if it is simply a tie-in its usually really easy to yank the rear system, evacuate and re-charge the front.. if it is completely custom then sometimes you have to visit a ford junkyard for a condenser and a few hoses (or make your own hoses.. they are easy).. and put it back together..

making your Parked A/C work on the road depends on how you plan to handle it.. a normal alternator wont likely run a rooftop A/C on an inverter which means you likely need a generator running while driving.. (mounted, and installed somehow)..

an insulated short cutaway bus like that will likely cool decently on one rooftop A/C as you dont have the curse of massive engine heat like a full size conventional bus..

part of your A/C decision also should be made on whether the art-work carried in the rear of bus needs to stay cool while travelling from site to site... road A/C is mnuch easier while oin the road... but of course useless when not...

-Christopher
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:04 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Pacific North Wet
Posts: 1,766
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
road A/C.. alot depends on how much the bus is going to be on the road vs parked.. and whether the space is needed under the bus and on the ceiling where the unit resides..

in a cutaway E Series bus they often have Dashboard A/C as well as the rear system...

this allows you a path to remove the rear portions and then rework it to have your Dashboard A/C for the road... I only suggest yanbking the rear system if it is physically either non-working or gets in the way somehow space-wise for what you want to do..

some coach builders simply tie the rear system into the Van dash system.. others make the only condenser used the one under the bus..

if it is simply a tie-in its usually really easy to yank the rear system, evacuate and re-charge the front.. if it is completely custom then sometimes you have to visit a ford junkyard for a condenser and a few hoses (or make your own hoses.. they are easy).. and put it back together..

making your Parked A/C work on the road depends on how you plan to handle it.. a normal alternator wont likely run a rooftop A/C on an inverter which means you likely need a generator running while driving.. (mounted, and installed somehow)..

an insulated short cutaway bus like that will likely cool decently on one rooftop A/C as you dont have the curse of massive engine heat like a full size conventional bus..

part of your A/C decision also should be made on whether the art-work carried in the rear of bus needs to stay cool while travelling from site to site... road A/C is mnuch easier while oin the road... but of course useless when not...

-Christopher
Thank you Christopher!!

Could you give me some tips on determining whether the dash & rear are tied together or separate? I understand the concept but have little experience in this area and a bit of expert direction will likely save me hours of trying to figure it out on my own

While we are planning on a generator with enough capacity to run a 9k to 12k BTU air conditioner it would be preferable to have road air to keep the driver comfortable.

My last conversion had no road air. I had two 12.5K roof airs and an 8k genny. I ROASTED in the drivers seat while driving through the desert.

On this one we must have road air or coach air that serves the driver well.

Thanks again.

S.
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:17 PM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 53
Hi! Do you mind if I ask what you paid for yours?
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:33 PM   #16
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 8,569
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the first thing to look for is if there are 1 or 2 compressors under the hood..

if there is 2 then the system are completely separate.. its easy then.. you can just yank the rear system..

if theres only 1 compressor (which is most likely the case on a bus that size)... then you next look to see if there is a condenser in front of the radiator... if there is, then it gets easier as its usually just a matter of unscrewing some fittings and then recharging..

if theres no condenser in front of the radiator then things get more complex... as you need to find a condenser and some lines to tie into the dash evaporator..

ive seen them both ways as far as a condenser.. Carrier (I THINK) is the last scenerio i described where they dont have a condenser in front of the radiator.. they are all different...

too bad we asrent closer together i could probably size up exactly whats going on in 10 minutes
..

I totally agree on road air.. I added it to my Carpenter nhus... and was Roasting in the driver seat while the mid section was cold.. so I then added Custom dash air.. (into a conventional bus never designed for it)... now Numero Uno stays cool!..

my newest bus already had road A/C when I got it..but its all the way at theback...so i have a feeling in spring I'll be fashioning custom Dash air for it too... althiugh since it doesnt have a doghouse itsnot nearly ashot as the carpenter..

-Christopher
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