Flexible rubber LP hose?

[warewolff]

Hi all,

Haven't posted in awhile but we've been making progress. I'm about to put my paneling up on the walls but before I do that the last thing I need to run is my water and LP lines. I get that people go with cast iron underneath the bus but I am keeping my two 20# tanks in a vented box in the garage area of the bus, walled off from the living area. Any runs would be indoors. Can I get away with leaving the stock regulator on the tank and running a high quality hose through the wall and out at my appliances? I'll need the LP for the stove/oven, catalytic heater, and water heater.

I don't see anyone having done this but if this is the same quality stuff that I'd connect to a cast iron line anyway, and it's safely inside the bus (ie: not exposed to road debris/temperature and elements), am I in any danger?

Thanks,
warewolff

[john61ct]

Rubber is only for temporary connection where required, needs replacing regularly.

Use copper, and make sure all joins are accessible for regular inspection, soap test for leaks.

[ol trunt]

Ditto j61ct. Be sure to clamp the copper lines to the bus to prevent their bouncing around. Copper tends to crystallize and fracture (particularly at joints) when it is allowed to vibrate. I leak check mine a couple of times a year with soapy water. I also have a couple of propane detectors going whenever the propane is turned on. There have been members of this forum seriously injured due to propane mishaps.
Jack

[superdave]

Originally Posted by warewolff

Hi all,

Haven't posted in awhile but we've been making progress. I'm about to put my paneling up on the walls but before I do that the last thing I need to run is my water and LP lines. I get that people go with cast iron underneath the bus but I am keeping my two 20# tanks in a vented box in the garage area of the bus, walled off from the living area. Any runs would be indoors. Can I get away with leaving the stock regulator on the tank and running a high quality hose through the wall and out at my appliances? I'll need the LP for the stove/oven, catalytic heater, and water heater.

I don't see anyone having done this but if this is the same quality stuff that I'd connect to a cast iron line anyway, and it's safely inside the bus (ie: not exposed to road debris/temperature and elements), am I in any danger?

Thanks,
warewolff

they use black pipe for gas under rvs not galvanized. the main pipe is large to supply all the appliances with the gas it needs. its only about 1/2 a pound of pressure but needs volume. the copper they run from the main line is 3/8 to each appliance. the amount of btu's is what determines the regulator size, add up everything you have and check the regulator you have. good luck

[sdwarf36]

Thats how I have mine. A 20 lb tank in the rear garage area. A 15 ft hose goes under the bed/ bench-tied up under the old seat rail to the heater. I only use the heat once or twice a season. The hose is safe from chafing or cuts.
I dunno why it would have to be changed very often- How many million gas grills are out there -outside nonstop for years-that need their hoses replaced?

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by sdwarf36

Thats how I have mine. A 20 lb tank in the rear garage area. A 15 ft hose goes under the bed/ bench-tied up under the old seat rail to the heater. I only use the heat once or twice a season. The hose is safe from chafing or cuts.
I dunno why it would have to be changed very often- How many million gas grills are out there -outside nonstop for years-that need their hoses replaced?

I think the reason most find it acceptable outside but not inside would be that if your 10 year old rubber hose on your grill in the back yard leaks it is unlikely to kill anyone. If it leaks inside your bus while you are sleeping it could be fatal.

[roach711]

My propane line is similar to Sdwarfs. Rubber hose from the tank regulator to my black pipe manifold in the kitchen area then rubber hoses from the manifold to the appliances. All rubber hoses are protected from chafing inside some of that split plastic electrical duct that I stripped out when removing extra wiring. Also made sure it's well supported and that we have a good propane alarm.

[EastCoastCB]

I wonder how Phil Breske is doing.
He hasn't posted in quite a while. Hell of a guy and a hell of a builder. He had a propane explosion.

Hope he's doin alright.

[cadillackid]

I watched a youtube video last summer about his explosion.. he wasnt yet working on his bus but he was moving around and looked pretty good in that video... never checked back to see if he got back to it.
-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

I watched a youtube video last summer about his explosion.. he wasnt yet working on his bus but he was moving around and looked pretty good in that video... never checked back to see if he got back to it.
-Christopher

That was the last I've heard about him, too.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by sdwarf36

I dunno why it would have to be changed very often- How many million gas grills are out there -outside nonstop for years-that need their hoses replaced?

Everything's fine, until it isn't!

Propane breaks down the rubber. Teflon lined lasts longer.

Rubber breaks down with age regardless.

Not an area to pinch pennies. Boom bad!

[crawler]

For installation of something as dangerous as propane I like black iron pipe properly sized and installed to terminate next to appliance then connection completed with an approved stainless steal flex connector.

[Iceni John]

From each 20 lb cylinder to the regulator I use 1/4" high-pressure hoses made for me by a local propane distributor (i.e. made correctly!), and these hoses are inside split-loom to prevent chafing. From the regulator and master shut-off valve to a 5-branch distribution manifold, and from each individually-valved branch to each appliance, I use continuous lengths of Pro-Flex CSST 1/2" flexible stainless gas pipe protected inside 3/4" EMT conduit. I also have a separate unregulated high-pressure feed to a quick-connect outlet for an outdoor grill, and this is another uninterrupted continuous length of 1/4" hose inside more EMT. Where the generator's propane line runs throught the front wheel well I've additionally protected the EMT inside some thick-wall stainless-steel pipe, but obviously the bus's entire propane system is always completely shut off and depressurized when driving. The cylinders' compartment is vented top and bottom, and is protected from a rear tire blowout by three thicknesses of Crown's high-tensile steel totaling almost 1/2" thick - nothing's getting through that!

I like using CSST - it's easy to install, and having no joints or connections between the manifold and each appliance reduces the possibility of leaks. I got the idea to use it from several folk on the BCM forum who have had good success with it, and apparently the boating crowd also like it. So far, so good.

Just bear in mind that anything rubber, whether air brake hoses, propane hoses, tires, etc etc has a finite life, and should be regularly checked and replaced when necessary. I plan on also installing a dial manometer at my propane manifold to make it easy to pressure-test each line at any time, plus I'll have LPG and CO detectors inside near each appliance.

John

[theradiumdial]

I am just getting started planning out my propane as well, found some pretty good info here

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/ho...lines-519.html