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Old 05-19-2016, 01:36 AM   #1
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RV Breaker Panel vs Home Breaker Panel

I am researching around the internet and notice that most conversions seem to be using a 120v breaker panel that is combined with 12v, designed specifically for RVs. I bought a 120v breaker panel from home depot designed for homes and am intending to buy a separate 12v fuse board for everything else, primarily because nearly everything in my conversion is going to be 120v except those things that require 12.

My questions are, is it illegal to use a house breaker panel? Is there any reason I should consider a panel designed for RVs? Any recommendations?
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:51 AM   #2
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My understanding is that such designs are usually for size constraints or convenience rather than anything to do with legality.
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:25 AM   #3
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there will be a little green screw with that breaker box, DO NOT bond the neutral with the ground. the ground bus bar should be bonded to the frame. wire everything as you would a house. if you have a on board genny the nuetral and ground are bonded at the genny from the factory, on most models.
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superdave View Post
there will be a little green screw with that breaker box, DO NOT bond the neutral with the ground. the ground bus bar should be bonded to the frame. wire everything as you would a house. if you have a on board genny the nuetral and ground are bonded at the genny from the factory, on most models.
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:15 AM   #5
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just finished wiring mine this am. i went with the 12v and 110 combined . this makes it possible to safe space and have all wires close.
no legalities involved that i know of.
if you gonna have your battery bank near the panel then just get the combined one to save yourself the hassel, if it not close to bank then you will want the 12v panel seperate any way in order to keep runs short. plus the combined looks very clean and easy access when finished. its all about space,
here is the one i went with http://www.amazon.com/WFCO-50-Servic...ilpage_o09_s00
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:01 AM   #6
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i have the WFCO box and i wish i got something a bit better.


check out blue sea marine for some nice high quality DC power distribution components.

https://www.bluesea.com/

good luck
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:08 AM   #7
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I am doing the 120V house breaker as well. I am running a separate line from the batteries directly to an automotive fuse panel with an inline shut off for 12v things. and then all my 12V will have fuses to protect them.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:24 AM   #8
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120v house panel and separate 12v with auto fuses. I use a 15a smart charger for the 4 100ah batts...does double duty if I need something else charged. 200w solar kicker too.

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Old 05-19-2016, 12:39 PM   #9
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on side note, i ground a nice shiny spot on the rail the seats were attached to along bottom of wall to use for ground. good spot , bad spot?? isn't that technically the chasis? or should i ground elsewhere?
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:51 PM   #10
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Depends on what's being grounded, or in other words, how good the connection needs to be. Remember you're building an electric circuit. I'll suppose you're talking about "ground" as in the negative battery return. People are pretty good at seeing the positive side of the circuit: the battery post, clamp, heavy wire with lugs on both ends, fuse box, smaller wire going out to the load. The negative/return half of the circuit tends to be invisible. From the load you might have a short wire, a ring terminal, a sheet metal screw holding it to some body panel, a combination of sheet metal screws, bolts, and rivets holding a series of body panels together, somewhere a braid or heavy wire with lugs and bolts or screws connecting a body panel down to the frame, and finally a heavy wire with lugs and bolts connecting the frame back to the battery.

People forget all about those connections between the body components; they think of the chassis/body as a single unit. Electrically it isn't, though: anything that isn't welded together has a connection that may become loose, dirty, etc. When somebody is being really careful, perhaps because they're installing a radio transceiver or audio equipment, it's sometimes necessary to actually install jumpers between everything that isn't welded because though the mechanical connection is reliable, the electrical connection may not be. Common parts include door panels, the hood, fender panels that aren't welded, etc.

A shiny spot on the chair rail "could" be a good place for a ground.
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